Would this lens work on the af100

let's say I want to shoot 10 minute short how much do ya'll figure of film on average I would shoot?
Well, that's where the concept of the "shooting ratio" comes into play. That's the ratio of film you shoot, to the total running time of the finished product. So if you wanted a 10-minute short, and you shot sixty minutes of film to get that 10-minute short, then that'd be a 6:1 ratio. And that's a misunderstood concept... folks seem to think that shooting at a 6:1 ratio means you get six takes of every setup, and that's way not right. Think about it - if you were shooting a 4:1 ratio, you could shoot a master shot in one take, a medium shot in one take, a closeup in one take, and the reverse in one take -- and that's it. You're out of film. Move on to the next setup because you're done. If somebody blew their line, too bad -- you're on a budget and you've got to get on to the next scene.

Video shooters, first making the move to film, are going to find this incredibly restrictive. But it's also going to instill a whole level of discipline in them that they've never had to face before, and because of that, it could be the best thing to ever happen to them. There's a saying in video, "tape is cheap", meaning, keep shooting until you get it right. I hate that. Because while tape is cheap, TIME isn't! If you're screwing around with take 30 or take 35, you've wasted sooooo much time! If you're paying actors and crew and locations and you're renting equipment, your burn rate might be $1,000 per hour or more... what on earth are you doing going through 30 takes of a scene!?!? Rehearse the scene, get it right, and then set up the camera and roll. Get it right within three takes and then move on. Time is money.

Anyway, back to the question -- what's a reasonable ratio? 12:1 is a pretty exorbitant ratio, IMO. If you're shooting over 12:1, you're probably being quite wasteful and need to tighten up your ship. 6:1 is extremely tight. 10:1 is probably reasonable. So on 10:1, on 16mm film, make the math easy -- a 400' roll runs for 11 minutes, so let's use that as a basis, and say that you'll need 9 rolls of film to end up with a 10-minute film, shot at a 10:1 ratio. So buy 9 rolls of film, get 'em processed and transferred to video, and edit on video.

Processing and transfer are extremely variable costs. You can (or at least used to be able to) find processing for a dime a foot, although it's a lot easier to find it at 15 cents a foot or so. So for each 400' roll, count on $60 for processing. Then transfer, that's the biggie -- you can get it slapped over to video on a cheapo old Rank for $175/hour, or you can get a luxurious wonderful transfer on a Spirit Datacine for maybe $900/hour. And that's $900 per hour of suite time, not of runtime, so if you do extensive color correction and grading in the telecine suite (which is far and away the best place to do it) you might spend several hours, usually at least 3:1 minimum, and maybe up to 10:1 depending on how much fiddling you do with the image.

So a cheap transfer might be a one-light, where you shot color bars at the head of the roll and they dial in the CC so that it makes the bars look good, and then they just roll the film off without any further adjustments. Might take two hours to get through 9 rolls, so $350 for transfer. But if you went through the trouble to make a great-looking short, you might want more than just a cheap one-light Rank transfer too.
 
well unless you do 2k scan instead of 4k scan perhaps...but even 2k is expensive I think!
Don't do a 2k scan, you don't want to end up with tens of thousands of still frames. Do a telecine, where they transfer it to videotape or direct to quicktime files on a hard disk.
 
Not trying to derail this thread but Barry, what serial number is that GSMO? I sold mine on Ebay back in '04 to Kevin Austin and I believe he converted his to Ultra 16 so I'm just curious if by some strange coincidence you now have my old GSMO. Does your have the T shaped carry handle that protrudes to the side instead of towards the front?
 
thanks alot for explanation ....hmm so 10;1 ratio is roughly standard to aim for then? a bit more than I thought but still doable at that price.

I mean I know James Cameron shot over 35 hours of film for Titanic....Titanic is what aruond 3 hours long? So Cameron shot roughly a 10:1 ratio so your analysis seems spot on
 
Not trying to derail this thread but Barry, what serial number is that GSMO? I sold mine on Ebay back in '04 to Kevin Austin and I believe he converted his to Ultra 16 so I'm just curious if by some strange coincidence you now have my old GSMO. Does your have the T shaped carry handle that protrudes to the side instead of towards the front?

No, it's not that one, but I did snag his Nikon->CP adapter! :thumbsup:
 
Barry what do you have all this stuff for do you direct produce edit write DP what? I mean what do you do with all these film cams and stuff you collect, 16mm, 35mm etc. Did you shoot anything on it yet?
 
Some of the prices on eBay are insane right now and it is a shame. I agree that shooting a project on film does teach you a level of discipline that you can't duplicate with video. I would love to have the extra cash to buy up some of the 16mm stuff just to give it a good home. Just over $1000 for a cp GSMO, with ultra16 conversion already done, wow! I've seen Arri 16s with 3 primes for like $700, not sync but a beautiful camera.


Film will keep indefinitely in the freezer, I have a couple of cases of reversal from 1974 that I got from the previous owner of my camera. In 1997 it was already 23, and turned out fine when I shot a test. Now that its almost 40 I'd have to test it again before committing the whole 8000' to a project. The problem is finding a specialty lab that won't charge a fortune to do it.
I'm hoping to use it for a film set in the 70's and use that stock to get the look in camera.

It's too bad that more small boutique transfer houses wouldn't set up with ultra16 support. It would be a way to bring new life to old cameras and lenses that wont support super16, and make film more viable for budget filmmakers.
 
believe me i know what you and barry mean about that. i just shot a project on 5dmkii with a guy who is a poor, inexperienced director and it ran 2 days over schedule as he was taking 30 takes of every single shot it was so annoying and almost had a mutiny on set as even actors couldn't stand it anymore. just becuase he had infinite 'tape' he had no discipline and just took take and take and take 20-30 takes at minimum for EVERY. SINGLE. SHOT. god it was a harrowing experience and made me want to shoot film
 
thanks alot for explanation ....hmm so 10;1 ratio is roughly standard to aim for then? a bit more than I thought but still doable at that price.

I mean I know James Cameron shot over 35 hours of film for Titanic....Titanic is what aruond 3 hours long? So Cameron shot roughly a 10:1 ratio so your analysis seems spot on

I can't believe Cameron shot Titanic 10:1. I think I shot between 8:1 and 10:1 for all the stuff I shot on film, even pop promos. Big hollywood features shoot a much higher ratio than 10:1 - the cost of stock/processing/telecine is a small part of the equation when you have $100,000,000 to spend. 10:1 is what the rest of us shoot!
 
I can't believe Cameron shot Titanic 10:1. I think I shot between 8:1 and 10:1 for all the stuff I shot on film, even pop promos. Big hollywood features shoot a much higher ratio than 10:1 - the cost of stock/processing/telecine is a small part of the equation when you have $100,000,000 to spend. 10:1 is what the rest of us shoot!

thanks for the input. yep I've read several sources Cameron shot about 35 hours for titanic so divide that by 3 and some odd hours final length and you get exactly 10:1
 
Barry what do you have all this stuff for do you direct produce edit write DP what? I mean what do you do with all these film cams and stuff you collect, 16mm, 35mm etc. Did you shoot anything on it yet?
I don't think I have a good answer to that question. :D

Okay, well, part of it is that I've been making films on and off for the last 30 years, so I'm somewhat of a collector. And part is that I just love the aesthetic of film, and working with it. I've had a couple of 35mm MOS cameras, but I eventually sold them off, and actually I sold off a number of my film cameras, but recently I've been getting the film bug and am thinking of shooting more on film. I'm somewhat of a zagger, if everyone in the world is saying "you must do it this way", I'm inclined to go look the other way. A contrarian, as it were. So if everyone's running to a DSLR, it makes me more curious to explore film further.

Prior to the DVX coming out, I shot 90% film. After the DVX came out, that year it shifted to 75% DVX, 25% film, and in the last few years I haven't fired up a film camera at all. I won an Emmy on a spot shot on an Eyemo, so I love film. Mainly the reason I got the CP GSMO was because it had already been converted to Ultra16. Super16 prices are still crazy (and, well, if I'm thinking about it, I do have a Super16 camera stuffed away in the closet somewhere, it's an old Filmo that was converted to S16).

I've had dozens of film cameras, from old magazine-load Kodak 16mm cameras on up to the 35mm silent cams, and man I was tempted to get that BL4... I had a Beaulieu 6008 (still kicking myself for selling that) and a Chinon Pacific 200/8XL, and most of the top-of-the-line Super8 cameras like the Elmo 1012, etc., and I keep shopping on ebay for a Canon 1014XL-S at a reasonable price so I can convert it to Super-Duper-8.

I guess lots of my problem is that ebay exists. Once ebay came out, it became all too easy to find all these crown jewels of the golden era and snatch 'em up. And ebay supports the addiction because once you run out of money, you can put 'em back on ebay and get basically all your money back out of them! Heh.

As for what I do -- I've been a shooter forever, but I don't shoot that much anymore as I spend more of my time writing and producing now, and it's all too easy to find shooters to shoot for me. I used to do tons of editing but that's now David Jimerson of WBS handles editing on most of my projects, or JDanStan edits the projects we shoot together. We're doing a real movie shortly (no more shorts! Sheesh!) and I'll be producing that, and am executive-producing another film for another DVXUser. But I don't get to shoot as much as I'd like, as most of my time nowadays is taken up with either writing, producing, or my work with FlightLine Films (update on that coming soon, perhaps today).
 
Yeah, but not at that price. I actually ended up ordering one off ebay, so I should be able to use that with my Ciecio7 PL adapter and get it on the GH1.
 
Its hard to buy into 35mm, no matter how cheap the package is, because they usually have no lenses, those have already been sold off to RED users. Also the stock is too expensive to burn on little projects unless you live in Hollywood and can get cheap short ends.

$750 would not be a bad price for barry's CP16/r if it is in decent shape. I have a feeling that 16mm, even standard 16mm will start to make a comeback on small projects, like commercials and music videos. There is whole generation who has never even touched the stock being spoiled by high quality cheap digital, they may get curious. It'll be the super8 of the HD age. If you are careful about how you shoot, you can shoot maybe 30 minutes of 16mm processed and transferred for less than the day's rent on a RED or other digital cinema grade cam. And you get a look and texture that is hard to reproduce, there is never a question that you shot on film.

I took a look at the Cinelicious tests comparing ultra 16 to regular 16 and honestly I couldn't see a difference other than the shot crop, the difference in grain size was not enough to justify only having one transfer house to choose from. Standard 16 has the advantage of being able to adjust the final framing when going from full frame to wide, or to use full 2x anamorphic adapters.

Besides nothing says 'filmmaker' like a big sync camera on a set of wooden sticks, especially the old-school ones with the butterfly mags like CP-16 or arri-16BL. The Problem with eBay though is not truly knowing the condition of the camera. It may be a gem that is cashing out because it's been on a shelf for 15 years and probably will never be used again, or it could be an old grinder that's been passed around like a dirty....

When I was in school my film department got a new Aaton xtr, beautiful, and my class was just the second to use it. Five years later I volunteered to shoot a senior thesis and the poor thing sounded like a coffee grinder. When new It was so quiet I wasn't always sure it was running. My Eclair NPR is not Aaton quiet, they never were, but much quieter than that one had become.
I was fortune enough to get mine from a retired cameraman, and met him in person, getting the advice and encouragement that comes with that kind of transaction, something that you'll never find on eBay unless you manage to find a local pick-up. But with prices what they are it may be worth taking a chance, you can sometimes find something really good for not much more than that wind-up russian pos used to go for.
 
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