Would Appreciate Advice for Filming Fast Action Automobile Races

Denniscasey

Well-known member
Last few weeks used HMC40 to video two automotive action events: (1) the Miller Mile in Milwaukee where 1920's and 1930's race cars lap the Milwaukee Mile race track at "conservative" speeds of 60 mph; and (2) Kohler Challenge in Elkhart Lake, WI where vintage sports cars and F1 cars race each other around the 4.5 mile hilly and wooded (shade and sun) course at speeds sometimes exceeding 100 mph. Item (2) I have videotaped several times in past with Sony VX2000 (3 of the 1/3 inch CCDs).

I try to describe situation below, but to cut to chase my questions are (and fitting my amateur status they are many and unabashedly display I have much to learn):

1. Is there a way I could use more manual settings to get better exposure and focus vs full auto I used (camera new to me and very dynamic changes going on)

2. I probably should have used ND 0.9 filter I had just acquired--would that have improved color and sharpness of images (have read it probably would have?)

3. HMC40 sometimes would snap in and out of focus as described below--why do you think?

4. Primarily wanted video but had thought I could get better "still" photos of cars at speed by selecting frame (tried both 720P 60 and 1080i 30 and so far have just begun looking at "still" frames but don't see much difference--recognize action was very fast and my panning was often not that steady). Manually selecting faster shutter speed --1/250?--would have helped "still" photo frame selection, but I have read fast shutter speeds mean slow panning or get jerky look? I foolishly did not record shutter and exposure setting camera was selecting in full auto. When I look at individual frames of video I took of cars at rest I seem to see jagged edges at transitions from sun to shadow--but for this I view on my 23 inch combination 1080p monitor/TV using HDMI out from HMC40 so could be monitor.

5. Overall camera did great on full auto, but I think color was a bit washed out and fast moving cars not as sharply defined as I had hoped.

Shooting situations are exciting but challenging to video: Situation (1) above was full sun around the concrete track and could stand right next to track. Picture clock laying down--I was panning cars approaching along straightaway from 3 o'clock position; came within 10 feet of where I was standing at 12 o'clock; and I continued panning until cars reached 9 o'clock position. Cars in full sun throughout pan. Many times I noted camera would maintain focus throughout 3 o'clock to about 11 o'clock position during pan, and then snap out and back into focus--nothing in way for camera to focus on instead of car I was following and very consistent about position it lost focus--I was not zooming. Exposure quite good throughout.

Situation (2) my filming location was on slight hill above and about 20 feet from closet part of track. Using same clock metaphor, cars come down hill beginning about 70 feet away and generally in full sun at 2 o'clock; pass in front at 12 o'clock within 20 feet of me usually in shade at this point and then accelerate up slight hill moving from shade into sun until I stop following again at about 9 oclock position and maybe 200 feet away and moving fast when I stop camera. Camera would maintain focus from 12 o'clock until about 11 o'clock position where it would sometimes snap out of focus then quickly back into focus.

HMC40 is still new to me so I am not using it to full advantage through multitude of manual settings and using full auto settings. However, particularly in situation (2) I don't know if I could maintain focus and correct exposure as cars rapidly come from far to near and then far again moving through sun, shade, sun at high speed.

I also tried tripod and handheld and I have to say using tripod was challenging due to wide sweep of very rapid panning and in situation (2) having to move camera up and down to follow cars through elevation change so reverted to my standard hand held for fast panning in most cases.

With apologies, I still have not learned to edit so I could post video to give better idea of what I am talking about. Dennis
 
Dennis, if you want to capture stills from your footage you better shoot at high speeds, as we have post before the reason of ND filters is
to create motion blur in the footage in order to make movement softer , However this doesn't apply to sports.
A good choice for sports is 720 60p speeds 1/250 and up in particular if you want stills from your footage.
Focus, if you find that there is hunting in your auto focus, go to manual, and if you find it difficult to handle, practice manual focusing techniques with the HMC40.
Not long ago I couldn't believe that manual focus could be used in action and changing situations, but NOW I only use Auto focus if is not a serious job.
I go manual for about any thing BUT you have to train a lot the technique.
Tripod is very good by the way at the end what tripod , tripod head are you using, that can make a difference.
Monopod is a very good alternative, check this one is great - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/655330-REG/Induro_472_525_AM25_Alloy_8M_AM_Series.html
I understand you are using the same ND as I am , very pleased with it.
720 60 p speed 1/120 should give a very nice motion footage , but if capturing stills is your goal increase speed.
If you are learning how to edit, learn with the best Sony Vegas Pro, if you can't afford it Sony Vegas Platinum
 
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Thank you once again Felipe. Actually I primarily want good video of race cars and good "stop action" stills would just be bonus extra. So it looks like suggested 720 60p and 1/120 would be good compromise. However I recall several posts and articles mentioning higher shutter speeds require slower panning speed to get smooth motion video--is that your experience also? If so the compromise is going to be matching shutter speed and panning speed to get best overall motion video. Sounds like if I want to continue following race cars from approach to "fast pan" when they zoom by right in front of me to following them as they go away I will accept some sub-optimal video at the point where I rapidly pan when they cross rapidly right in front of me.

If I get time away from day job will try to have a few days of "total immersion" with HMC40 to learn/practice all you and others have mentioned--really appreciate forum members taking time to point me in right directions and help me focus on important things. Dennis
 
get smooth motion video--is that your experience also? Dennis
Panning at high speeds should be done very smoothly because any jerky movement will show as a hard jump, but that has to do a lot with the tripod
That is why we mentioned before the double tubing tripod, an a good head, A good monopod and good experience with it will also do a good job.
 
+1 to the all of the aforementioned, but IMO using 1080 60i 1/120 shutter (*in good lighting conditions*) will provide even better "film-like" slow motion, but an important aspect is how fast the footage will actually be played back. Using Sony Vegas, I have gotten tremendous results by slowing the footage down by 62%, thus its being played back 38% its original speed, and rendering at 29.97 fps.
 
Panning at high speeds should be done very smoothly because any jerky movement will show as a hard jump, but that has to do a lot with the tripod
That is why we mentioned before the double tubing tripod, an a good head, A good monopod and good experience with it will also do a good job.

I did get very helpful earlier forum comments to my questions about fluid heads with variable drag (for fast pans I do to follow race cars) vs fixed drag (tried a few and I think drag too much for fast pans). Manfrotto 504 recommended most (in my price range) and I found local store with both Manfrotto 503 and 504 I can test--504 ball head requires new tripod for me (Felipe, I recall your comment to do weight lifting at local gym so I can carry good double tubing tripod around) whereas I can use 503 with existing heavy but decent tripod. Probably penny wise and pound foolish, but have to remember this is so far primarily a hobby with me so need to consider penny wise approach.

I have had a decent Manfrotto monopod for several years, but need more practice--last used it at air show where fast horizontal pans combined with rapid vertical pans were challenging.

Frankly,I find the very small EVF on HMC40 problematic for this kind of fast action shooting which is another reason I have been using full auto (even with focus aids doubt I could use manual focus with this EVF) but with practice and set focus points (or maybe just use the "infinity" focus setting given good depth of field HMC40 has with small sensors) I hope to do better job.

I will also be experimenting more with ND filter you got and good to hear you like it. As I understand it, ND filters with HMC40 desirable in bright sun to keep iris opening within single digits to ensure high resolution.
 
+1 to the all of the aforementioned, but IMO using 1080 60i 1/120 shutter (*in good lighting conditions*) will provide even better "film-like" slow motion, but an important aspect is how fast the footage will actually be played back. Using Sony Vegas, I have gotten tremendous results by slowing the footage down by 62%, thus its being played back 38% its original speed, and rendering at 29.97 fps.

Appreciate comment regarding slow motion which with appropriate music is very effective/artistic with race cars and particularly racing motorcycles (almost ballet like with extreme leaning angles of motorcycles). Dennis
 
Frankly,I find the very small EVF on HMC40 problematic

EVF is something you have to trust because despite is not the best, is good enough to check the image, in particular knowing thAT the footage
will be great, with this camera you have to have know what you are doing, or practice a lot in order to achieve the knowledge, but once you get it
you will be happy, I frequently ask my self what video camera will I buy today, with the new options in the market, and my self answer is the same
a HMC40 and a HDSLR
 
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+1 to the all of the aforementioned, but IMO using 1080 60i 1/120 shutter (*in good lighting conditions*) will provide even better "film-like" slow motion, but an important aspect is how fast the footage will actually be played back. Using Sony Vegas, I have gotten tremendous results by slowing the footage down by 62%, thus its being played back 38% its original speed, and rendering at 29.97 fps.

I'll try that, sounds cool
 
Frankly,I find the very small EVF on HMC40 problematic

EVF is something you have to trust because despite is not the best, is good enough to check the image, in particular knowing thAT the footage
will be great, with this camera you have to have know what you are doing, or practice a lot in order to achieve the knowledge, but once you get it
you will be happy, I frequently ask my self what video camera will I buy today, with the new options in the market, and my self answer is the same
a HMC40 and a HDSLR

Whenever I get time off my "day job" I plan some "total immersion" time with HMC40 to practice what I learn on forum and from Barry Green's HMC Book. I appreciate info/guideance from these sources so I have basis to understand results I see from my experiments. Dennis
 
+1 to the all of the aforementioned, but IMO using 1080 60i 1/120 shutter (*in good lighting conditions*) will provide even better "film-like" slow motion, but an important aspect is how fast the footage will actually be played back. Using Sony Vegas, I have gotten tremendous results by slowing the footage down by 62%, thus its being played back 38% its original speed, and rendering at 29.97 fps.

Well, I personally can not enjoy interlaced any more.
Was good to check how is the interlaced in this camera
 
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