I am currently using 3 Sennheiser G3 wireless systems for dialog acquisition. I would like to provide a wireless camera audio link from my Zoom F4 output to the camera and a director. I was observing on a shoot yesterday and the sound man was using Lectrosonics, but seemed to have inexpensive looking wireless receivers for the producer & director with light weight headphones. I wasn't able to get close enough to politely see a brand name or model. Any ideas what they might have been? Does any one make an inexpensive receiver that tunes to the same frequencies as the G3 transmitters?
Wireless Camera hop and directors monitor
- Thread starter ric8138
- Start date
Rick R
Veteran
Many pros use the Comtek VHF IFBs for the director, scripty, ect., ect. They ain't exactly low cost items though. The HPs may be cheap though, for instance, I give out low cost Panasonic Walkman type HPs, which cost less than $10 each.. they sound decent and production does not complain about replacement cost when they disappear or get trashed (common occurrences). There are many other IFB options as well, just about any wireless with a HP output on the receiver could be used, providing it does not interfere with the talent systems.
BTW, most WiFi frequency units do not work well for this type of application since they are 'paired' (one transmitter, one receiver) opposed to a VHF or UHF system which can have one transmitter and multiple receivers (on the same frequency of coarse).
BTW, most WiFi frequency units do not work well for this type of application since they are 'paired' (one transmitter, one receiver) opposed to a VHF or UHF system which can have one transmitter and multiple receivers (on the same frequency of coarse).
Comtek systems are handy, but not inexpensive. A field kit with transmitter and two receivers (and a case) will run you almost $1400. They’re great for producer/client monitoring, but not so much as a wireless camera hop.
Also not inexpensive, but something to consider, is another Sehhneiser system. They make perfectly useful camera hops. And if you get a Sennheiser Evolution IEM receiver that’s in the same band, and turn off the pilot tone, it’ll receive the same signal as the camera but with a controllable headphone out. Check for closeouts, since the G4 systems are out and retailers are trying to move any remaining G3 stock.
Also not inexpensive, but something to consider, is another Sehhneiser system. They make perfectly useful camera hops. And if you get a Sennheiser Evolution IEM receiver that’s in the same band, and turn off the pilot tone, it’ll receive the same signal as the camera but with a controllable headphone out. Check for closeouts, since the G4 systems are out and retailers are trying to move any remaining G3 stock.
Rick R
Veteran
Use the F8 3.5mm sub out jack in (-10dB) line level with a SK100 portable Tx with a line-level plug config. (Ring=positive; Tip grounded to sleeve/shield). Otherwise I do not think the low voltage bias current of the SK100 would do any damage, though you should probably ask a Zoom tech."
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Remote Audio make cables specifically for using G3/G4 transmitters as wireless camera hops. They have TA3F (mini XLR) > locking 3.5mm (CASENSK100TL) and 3.5mm>locking 3.5mm that will mono sum the 1/8” out from any field mixer/recorder (CASDT3/3.5).
I see 9v on tip-gnd and ring-gnd so I really think I need a DC blocking cap. I noticed that Remote Audio does mention blocking caps on some of their cables. Thanks for the tip Alex. I didn't find the 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable at Remote Audio. The CASDT3/3.5 is coming up as a TA3F to 3.5. I've contacted Remote Audio for the cable.
Rick R
Veteran
Bias current is not applied to the ring terminal on a G2/3/4, so a DC blocking cap is not necessary. The plug's tip terminal normally carries the voltage, but that is grounded, so it's a non-issue when it's wired for line. The Remote Audio CASDT3/3.5 cable will work, just set the Zoom's main output level to -10dB. The TA3 main outputs do not carry mic power.
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Sorry, I'm not following your notes. I'm not using the main outputs. I'm using the sub out.
"Bias current is not applied to the ring terminal on a G2/3/4, so a DC blocking cap is not necessary." I'm seeing 9v on both tip and ring to sleeve, which seems odd. I would have thought I'd see voltage on only one conductor as you said.
"The plug's tip terminal normally carries the voltage, but that is grounded, so it's a non-issue when it's wired for line. " I thought tip is left channel, ring is right channel, and sleeve is ground.
Mono of the left or right channel would be ok, since I am using this for the boom operator to monitor.
"Bias current is not applied to the ring terminal on a G2/3/4, so a DC blocking cap is not necessary." I'm seeing 9v on both tip and ring to sleeve, which seems odd. I would have thought I'd see voltage on only one conductor as you said.
"The plug's tip terminal normally carries the voltage, but that is grounded, so it's a non-issue when it's wired for line. " I thought tip is left channel, ring is right channel, and sleeve is ground.
Mono of the left or right channel would be ok, since I am using this for the boom operator to monitor.
Rick R
Veteran
I'm seeing 9v on both tip and ring to sleeve, which seems odd. I would have thought I'd see voltage on only one conductor as you said.
- I assumed this as well, so I just checked a G3 SK 100 Tx and the tip does measure 9V (unloaded) but I get no voltage on the ring terminal. I used an off-the-shelf 3.5 TRS to 3.5 TRS to test. If you used a cable with the tip and ring tied together, then both ring and tip would show voltage.
Otherwise, the Remote Audio CASDT3/3.5 may NOT work after all if it's designed for the Sound Devices 'Tape out' TA3 connection, which is unbalanced left and right. The L&R F series Zoom TA3 connectors are balanced, so using one of those would probably result in no sound at all to the Tx, since the TA3 pins 2&3 are 180 degrees out-of-phase.
You may need to make a custom cable... or have one made.
BTW, the right-angle 3.5 TRS to locking 3.5 TRS (CL-1) cable that comes the G2/3/4 portable system, the right angle plug's Ring and Tip connections are tied together to sum both L&R channels. The ring is floated (not connected) on the locking plug end. If the bias current will not damage the Zoom, you could use above locking CL1 'line output cable' to feed the G3 mic level, that would sum the Zoom's sub-out L&R channels.
- I assumed this as well, so I just checked a G3 SK 100 Tx and the tip does measure 9V (unloaded) but I get no voltage on the ring terminal. I used an off-the-shelf 3.5 TRS to 3.5 TRS to test. If you used a cable with the tip and ring tied together, then both ring and tip would show voltage.
Otherwise, the Remote Audio CASDT3/3.5 may NOT work after all if it's designed for the Sound Devices 'Tape out' TA3 connection, which is unbalanced left and right. The L&R F series Zoom TA3 connectors are balanced, so using one of those would probably result in no sound at all to the Tx, since the TA3 pins 2&3 are 180 degrees out-of-phase.
You may need to make a custom cable... or have one made.
BTW, the right-angle 3.5 TRS to locking 3.5 TRS (CL-1) cable that comes the G2/3/4 portable system, the right angle plug's Ring and Tip connections are tied together to sum both L&R channels. The ring is floated (not connected) on the locking plug end. If the bias current will not damage the Zoom, you could use above locking CL1 'line output cable' to feed the G3 mic level, that would sum the Zoom's sub-out L&R channels.
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"BTW, the right-angle 3.5 TRS to locking 3.5 TRS (CL-1) cable that comes the G2/3/4 portable system, the right angle plug's Ring and Tip connections are tied together to sum both L&R channels. "
Ahh. That explains why I'm seeing 9v on both pins. I used that cable to read the voltage on the pins. I've never had a need to use that cable. Ok, I have to believe that cable is provided for exactly what I am wanting to do. I'm still a little dodgy about hooking it up. I'll do more reading. Thanks Rick.
Ahh. That explains why I'm seeing 9v on both pins. I used that cable to read the voltage on the pins. I've never had a need to use that cable. Ok, I have to believe that cable is provided for exactly what I am wanting to do. I'm still a little dodgy about hooking it up. I'll do more reading. Thanks Rick.
Rick R
Veteran
Your welcome Paul, the CL-1 was included as an output cable to feed a cam or recorder with a stereo 3.5mm input jack. It would work for input though. The question is: would the bias voltage harm the Zoom?
Personally, I would just get out the soldering gear and build a 3.5mm to 3.5mm locking line level cable, but that's easy for me to say as an experienced cable builder.
Personally, I would just get out the soldering gear and build a 3.5mm to 3.5mm locking line level cable, but that's easy for me to say as an experienced cable builder.
The cables I build tend not to be very robust when dealing with 3.5mm. Adding blocking caps would make it even more crappy and unreliable. I was hoping Remote Audio made something nice so I don't have to make a turd. But no. So I will make some crappy cables.
I did find what I needed in a 2013 post on a sound forum. Blocking caps are recommended.
I did find what I needed in a 2013 post on a sound forum. Blocking caps are recommended.
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Have you called them? They do take custom orders, depending on what it is. Worth a call, anyway.
Was this a discussion on jwsoundgroup, or elsewhere? Would you mind linking to it please for reference for others who might be looking at this later
Actually, it was Rick R who in the referenced thread, recommends the blocking cap. http://jwsoundgroup.net/index.php?/topic/9677-eric-help-sennheiser-g3-transmitter-plug-wiring/
Also, this discussion calls out a value for the capacitor by John Willett who used to work for Sennheiser - 1uf tantalum bead cap. http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/all-things-audio/128889-sennheiser-sk100-jack-confusion-2.html
Also, this discussion calls out a value for the capacitor by John Willett who used to work for Sennheiser - 1uf tantalum bead cap. http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/all-things-audio/128889-sennheiser-sk100-jack-confusion-2.html
I think I found a solution to my weak DIY cable builds for small cables. The issue I have with them is that they have a weak cable clamp (bent metal) and there is no other strain relief. The manufactured cables have a nice molded plastic cover that provides real support.
I was able to fit a blocking cap inside the connector housing of a 3.5mm plug. To make it more solid, I filled the housing with hot glue until it oozed out the cable end. Now the connector is similar to a manufactured cable. It works with the Sennheiser G3 connected to the sub out of the Zoom F8. Fingers crossed.
I was able to fit a blocking cap inside the connector housing of a 3.5mm plug. To make it more solid, I filled the housing with hot glue until it oozed out the cable end. Now the connector is similar to a manufactured cable. It works with the Sennheiser G3 connected to the sub out of the Zoom F8. Fingers crossed.