Wired remote control circuit for Iris/Focus
- Thread starter cwoodhou
- Start date
After a bit of searching, I found these resources which suggest an external circuit for a wired remote control. The German one suggests a natty little idea which would allow focus pulling between two presets.
http://www.fi-hh.com/Bauanleitung.pdf
http://www.scribd.com/doc/14670404/PanasonicAghvx200p-an-e-Mc2cAghvx202enParts2cServiceManual
http://www.fi-hh.com/Bauanleitung.pdf
http://www.scribd.com/doc/14670404/PanasonicAghvx200p-an-e-Mc2cAghvx202enParts2cServiceManual
WpgCameraMan
Well-known member
Great find. The Zoom control needs a return spring to keep it in a 'neutral' position. Just glanced at the document, but I suspect there's a 'dead' spot created in the zoom circuit so that you can manually turn the pot to a near-dead , and not have to be bang-on accurate. A physical indent or some other form of notch would do the same thing.
Focus and iris controls are fine to use with non-centering pots.
Speaking of pots, the colour correction PDF on that site has a sly 420 shout-out.
I would have to test the remote controls more, but I think if you were going for a repeatable motion-controlled rig, the HMC-150 lens system isn't the most ideal system. A real mechanical lens, with the three rings is a better choice. However, if you are making a sequel to Avatar in your garage, this would work fine.
Focus and iris controls are fine to use with non-centering pots.
Speaking of pots, the colour correction PDF on that site has a sly 420 shout-out.
I would have to test the remote controls more, but I think if you were going for a repeatable motion-controlled rig, the HMC-150 lens system isn't the most ideal system. A real mechanical lens, with the three rings is a better choice. However, if you are making a sequel to Avatar in your garage, this would work fine.
Al MacLeod
Well-known member
Is there an English version of that page? (fi-hh.com)
No - but one can cut and paste into google to get the gist. The last set of circuits is the most interesting. It suggests two tandem pots with a bypass switch for focussing. In that way, you throw the switch and the camera goes between two preset positions. I think the pot values maybe too high. I'll find out this week with some careful testing.
The service manual shows two current sources for the iris/focus. Over the coming few weeks, I will carefully construct a circuit and test the assumptions that there are two safety 1K resistors in the camera. I'll have a design in a couple of weeks and post details to anyone interested. In my case I wanted to do some overhead shots, so I'm going to have to stare up at the angled screen and use a wired remote to get everything just so.