Will these NIKKOR D lens work?

I am going to be shooting several music videos. Because of that I'm going to need a nice wide lens to be able to get wide shots of small to large entire bands.

I'd like to maybe get the Nikon 14mm 2.8 but my question is, since that's a fish eye and will have pretty substantial image warping, will that show up after the 2x crop factor?
 
kenwilx1016 said:
I am going to be shooting several music videos. Because of that I'm going to need a nice wide lens to be able to get wide shots of small to large entire bands.

I'd like to maybe get the Nikon 14mm 2.8 but my question is, since that's a fish eye and will have pretty substantial image warping, will that show up after the 2x crop factor?
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Why not get the tokina 11-16mm? It is just as fast, non-distorting, sharp, and matches other nikon lenses well... and it is only ~$650 new list price. It really is the best fast ultrawide for the AF100, IMHO.
 
Oliver Rush said:
Why not get the tokina 11-16mm? It is just as fast, non-distorting, sharp, and matches other nikon lenses well... and it is only ~$650 new list price. It really is the best fast ultrawide for the AF100, IMHO.
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Awesome man! I'll look into that! can you tell me if I will be able to control the aperture from the camera, or will I need to do it through a different mount?
 
kenwilx1016 said:
Awesome man! I'll look into that! can you tell me if I will be able to control the aperture from the camera, or will I need to do it through a different mount?
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No, it is not a native m4/3 lens. Get it in a nikon mount, and then use an adapter such as the adaptimax plus or the novoflex to control the iris as the tokina lacks an aperature ring being a G/DX lens, but it is such an awesome piece of glass in every other way that it is easy to look over that little imperfection. Really, you can't go wrong with it. One of my favorite lenses with my AF100 when I need to go WIDE.
 
wavesn said:
I can't say this is the best Nikon adapter, since I haven't tried any others, but the one I have works just fine. http://www.rainbowimaging.biz/shop/product.php?id_product=71
It's $25 and claims to fit all Nikon lenses including ones with manual aperture control.
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I agree, i have this $25.00 mount and have had no bad issues with it. I bought the more expensive mount and compared the two, the pricier one had a more snug fit but had no observable difference when I shot. Kept the cheapy.
 
tazza said:
I agree, i have this $25.00 mount and have had no bad issues with it. I bought the more expensive mount and compared the two, the pricier one had a more snug fit but had no observable difference when I shot. Kept the cheapy.
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I've been using these without issue as well. The only problems can come if you are actively focusing/zooming with your lens and having to use force. Then the less-than-perfectness of the mount can cause shifting. But really, soft touch on focus or zoom and you'll be fine.
 
Ok, OP here.

reygun said:
It will allow you to manually use any Nikon lens in the same manner you were with the SGPro.
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What I liked about the DVX and SGPro combo was that you could close the iris on the DVX, and keep your lens aperture at full f/1.4 to keep the tight DOF. Can you do this, or something similar, with the AF100/FS100?
 
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wreck2 said:
Ok, OP here.



What I liked about the DVX and SGPro combo was that you could close the iris on the DVX, and keep your lens aperture at full f/1.4 to keep the tight DOF. Can you do this, or something similar, with the AF100/FS100?
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There is no internal iris on the AF-100. The closest thing would be to drop the ISO, but that's much different than closing an iris.
 
wreck2 said:
What I liked about the DVX and SGPro combo was that you could close the iris on the DVX, and keep your lens aperture at full f/1.4 to keep the tight DOF. Can you do this, or something similar, with the AF100/FS100?
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Correct me if I'm wrong - but if you close any iris between the lens elements and the image sensor, you're going to affect your depth of field, right?

Jarek Zabczynski said:
There is no internal iris on the AF-100. The closest thing would be to drop the ISO, but that's much different than closing an iris.
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Or...err...use the built-in ND Filter? Isn't that the best way to cut light while maintaining DoF?
 
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