Which Steadicam Systems
- Thread starter Propaganda
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SomewhereinLA
Well-known member
I should have mentioned, I am already enroled in the next Steadicam workshop with Peter coming up in Glendale, CA. I wouldn't think of spending that much money without trying and learning about it first.
However, I do want to start thinking what my need might be if I do decide to buy one, an which one will offer the best for the money, both in term of flexibility and comfort.
I do agree with the Focus Puller, However I would like to have the option to do it myself whenever a budget doesn't accommodate for one. I have read in several forums about people being successful at rigging small focus/iris remote device such as a Foxi... Of course I do agree it's not the best possible setup, but a useful option to have.
However, I do want to start thinking what my need might be if I do decide to buy one, an which one will offer the best for the money, both in term of flexibility and comfort.
I do agree with the Focus Puller, However I would like to have the option to do it myself whenever a budget doesn't accommodate for one. I have read in several forums about people being successful at rigging small focus/iris remote device such as a Foxi... Of course I do agree it's not the best possible setup, but a useful option to have.
mikkowilson
Steadi-Guru
Smart man.You have a couple of issues coming up if you decide to go with HD monitoring with the HVX.
Even the Flyer-24 with it's HD monitor isn't set up for component. It's only wired for HD-SDI.
Of course you can pull the cables outside the post too without any problems. But all hidden away is just nicer.
The monitor is in deed replaceable to any monitor with a 1/4"-20 thread in the bottom.
The stock Flyer uses a special monitor cable. I don't recall how the monitor cables are on the F-24. You would need to get an adapter cable, at least for power for the monitor.
Another option is to pull your monitor power directly off the power tap on the battery plate. D-tap to XLR-4 is probably what you would need, and that's a standard cable.
Of course with component cables down the front and power cables across the bottom, the rig will be looking pretty strung up. - But these cables wouldn't have any effect on operation.
So yes, there are definatly upgrade options for the Flyer, though I still am of the oppinion that they arn't really that necesarry most of the time.
- Mikko
SomewhereinLA
Well-known member
Thank's I am actually very excited about the workshop, It has been one of those things I have wanted to do for a long time but never got time to do. After the last movie I worked on (vfx), I decided to take 4 month off and do all the thing I never have time to do, this workshop being one of them.
I guess everything will probably make more sense when I actually do it.
Thank's for all the good advices.
I am actually very excited about the workshop, It has been one of those things I have wanted to do for a long time but never got time to do. After the last movie I worked on (vfx), I decided to take 4 month off and do all the thing I never have time to do, this workshop being one of them.I guess everything will probably make more sense when I actually do it.
Thank's for all the good advices.
mikkowilson
Steadi-Guru
SomewhereinLA said:
It will.
And you will have a blast. I'm jealous.
- Mikko
soren k jensen
Well-known member
enjoy!
enjoy!
I've just been to a workshop in the UK with Robin Thwaites. So much fun and learning, and absolutely essential. I'll just pitch in briefly what my Flyer/HVX combo will be developed further with, after seeing and trying the bigger rigs:
1. I can't bring in a focus puller for several reasons: budget, kids, cramped spaces. The varizoom wired remote works fine, just make a flexible cable extension and make a u-shaped curve from handle to post. Tie up all cables neatly.
2. Put on some weight. Not you, the HVX. Both extra weight and extra length will stabilise it seriously. Apart from getting physically exhausted, the bigger rigs are much easier to master than a lightweight Flyer. I am building an aluminium cage for the HVX, and all the extra stuff goes on there, mics, batteries, FS-100 etc. As well as two dovetails, top and bottom, for the Flyer. That will let me change mode a bit quicker.
3. As I'll be doing a lot of very low mode, I'll buy the low mode f-bracket and build a little thingy: I am currently changing a manfrotto monopod into a battery extension post. I am mounting the extension to the post, thus being able to move the weight of my two PAGlock batteries further away from the gimbal. Which will give extra low mode or -height. I'll have to build extension cables etc.
4. I'll buy either a Marshall or a Cinemonior IIIa for better onboard focus anyway. I plan to use that monitor on the FLyer, too.
5. The vest could use a bit of extra padding, and I am looking into mounting the snap-lock ratchets from the bigger vests, too. It's easier to adjust and also to take a breather with those.
Have fun and fly safe!
enjoy!
I've just been to a workshop in the UK with Robin Thwaites. So much fun and learning, and absolutely essential. I'll just pitch in briefly what my Flyer/HVX combo will be developed further with, after seeing and trying the bigger rigs:
1. I can't bring in a focus puller for several reasons: budget, kids, cramped spaces. The varizoom wired remote works fine, just make a flexible cable extension and make a u-shaped curve from handle to post. Tie up all cables neatly.
2. Put on some weight. Not you, the HVX. Both extra weight and extra length will stabilise it seriously. Apart from getting physically exhausted, the bigger rigs are much easier to master than a lightweight Flyer. I am building an aluminium cage for the HVX, and all the extra stuff goes on there, mics, batteries, FS-100 etc. As well as two dovetails, top and bottom, for the Flyer. That will let me change mode a bit quicker.
3. As I'll be doing a lot of very low mode, I'll buy the low mode f-bracket and build a little thingy: I am currently changing a manfrotto monopod into a battery extension post. I am mounting the extension to the post, thus being able to move the weight of my two PAGlock batteries further away from the gimbal. Which will give extra low mode or -height. I'll have to build extension cables etc.
4. I'll buy either a Marshall or a Cinemonior IIIa for better onboard focus anyway. I plan to use that monitor on the FLyer, too.
5. The vest could use a bit of extra padding, and I am looking into mounting the snap-lock ratchets from the bigger vests, too. It's easier to adjust and also to take a breather with those.
Have fun and fly safe!
DC
Cinematographiliac
For what it's worth . . .
I was at the DV Expo in LA yesterday. I came across a new stabilizer company and was very impressed. I spoke with a gentleman named Simon Lee and got his business card. He was demoing a rig that could handle up to 27 lbs. There was a barebones HVX on top. The rig was called "XTR700." There was the arm, vest, etc.
Simon said a few "known" Asian directors were using it in their films. I saw some footage from one of these films and it looked really slick. The price of the rig was $3200 and comes with a composite monitor.
Fishbone USA
http://www.fishboneusa.com
Glendale, California
(original office in Taipei)
Granted, I don't know all that much about stabilizers but it may be worth your while to check it out. If anyone has any feedback on this company's product, I would certainly like to hear it.
I was at the DV Expo in LA yesterday. I came across a new stabilizer company and was very impressed. I spoke with a gentleman named Simon Lee and got his business card. He was demoing a rig that could handle up to 27 lbs. There was a barebones HVX on top. The rig was called "XTR700." There was the arm, vest, etc.
Simon said a few "known" Asian directors were using it in their films. I saw some footage from one of these films and it looked really slick. The price of the rig was $3200 and comes with a composite monitor.
Fishbone USA
http://www.fishboneusa.com
Glendale, California
(original office in Taipei)
Granted, I don't know all that much about stabilizers but it may be worth your while to check it out. If anyone has any feedback on this company's product, I would certainly like to hear it.
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SomewhereinLA
Well-known member
What's the name of the company?
mikkowilson
Steadi-Guru
DC said:
This is the first I've heard of this company. But based on their website:
No price list? hmm.. No The award winning director's name isn't mentioned, makes you wonder why. Who is s/he?
"First Look."
A rip of the Tiffen Steady Stick, similar to the support rod for the DV-rig
"XTR700."
Appears to be a mix of the Glidecam Smooth Shooter, Steadicam Mini and Varizoom Sportster.
Can't speak for the build quality of course.
The one secion arm seems to have a lot of horizontal range which is good. I wonder how many connections have bearings in them. Arm spring configuration should work, but the arm will probably be a little bouncy. Boom range could be ok.
There is no socket block, which means that you may have to lean at a funny angel to get the sled to fly right. - notice how far back the model is leaning in the photos? The will give you a sore back very quickly when operating. A socket block is a must.
Sled looks ok. Nice to see the monitor can move up the post, that's cool. Top stage should be ok, seems to be a the classic "model 3" type adjustment.
I can't tell if the gimble can be moved to balance or not, I suspect that possibly not. (Makes it very hard to balance top to bottom.
"XTR600"
Looks like a simpler dumbed down version. No monitor or batteries which can be a drag. Over all it looks like the Smooth Shooter with a easier to adjust top-stage. Again no socket block and the gimble looks stationary.
"XT300"
Erm, hardly a stabilizer. It's just a camera grip/bracket. Looks interesting, but I can't think of many practical applications, except to add a handle to a camera that doesnt have one.
Heh, I guess that's it. The rest of the range is listed as "coming soon"
Their rigs could work just fine, I can't say without trying them. But they do seem to lack some pretty important features such as a adjustable socket block.
If you are in LA, and feel like heading over to Glendale to check out these guys. Also head over a to Tiffen/Steadicam (also in Glendale) and do a comparison. I'd love to hear from someone who's tried both.
- Mikko
soren k jensen
Well-known member
Loooow mode and glue-on feet
Loooow mode and glue-on feet
Hi Ben,
Several ways:
1. Flip the thing by making the camera end heavier than the other end. Flip footage in post. Adjust the height of the shot by adjusting the arm. The heavier the battery end and the lighter the camera end, the lower the camera goes.
2. Same, but build a device to extend the batteries farther away from cg, lowering the camera even more.
3. Combine above with an F-bracket between arm and gimbal handle. Brings it down further.
4. Buy or build a low mode clamp to go around the camera handle. THis way the camera is not flipped upside down. Not recommended for HVX, as the handle is fragile.
5. Buy or build a cage for the camera, enabling you to go even lower.
6. Saw off your own legs at desired length, and glue your feet back on. Simple.rogar-Evil(DBG):
enjoy it, I do!
Loooow mode and glue-on feet
Hi Ben,
Several ways:
1. Flip the thing by making the camera end heavier than the other end. Flip footage in post. Adjust the height of the shot by adjusting the arm. The heavier the battery end and the lighter the camera end, the lower the camera goes.
2. Same, but build a device to extend the batteries farther away from cg, lowering the camera even more.
3. Combine above with an F-bracket between arm and gimbal handle. Brings it down further.
4. Buy or build a low mode clamp to go around the camera handle. THis way the camera is not flipped upside down. Not recommended for HVX, as the handle is fragile.
5. Buy or build a cage for the camera, enabling you to go even lower.
6. Saw off your own legs at desired length, and glue your feet back on. Simple.
rogar-Evil(DBG): enjoy it, I do!
I just checked out the Fishbone USA web site and the first thing I noticed is the guy in the photo is leaaning way back to compensate for the weight of the rig and has a death grip on the gimble. He's breaking rules number one and two of basic Steadicam operation.
Maybe a Steadicam workshop is in order for the Fishbone guys?
Maybe a Steadicam workshop is in order for the Fishbone guys?
fishboneusa
New member
Hi friends~
FishboneUSA here.
(1) About the director using our product: Tso-Chi Chang
http://www.fishboneusa.com/butterfly.php
more details:
http://movies2.nytimes.com/gst/movies/filmography.html?p_id=212694
(2) We just carried Fishbone to US. (Fishbone is the major brand in Asia. Sold 1bout 150 sets in 6 months) Honestly speaking, I don't have any faith to the stabilizer at all, even the designer told me so many people have been used already. However, in DV Expo, many "pro" come to the booth and tried our products. They give us very positive feedbacks. Especially the manufacturer direct price and free 7" monitor with wiring setup. (Could I mention on the forum? $3XXX)
(3) Anyone wanna borrow and try it?
Drop us an Email. If you are an expert, we are willing to hear your voice! Hope to see our review sooner later. Oh, by the way, we can rent to student. $100/ day but student only.
(4) More about Fishbone designer, Yu:
He is a crazy guy. He didn't graduate from colleague but he was awarded the best inventor in Taiwan by government. He is also an expert/ actor of extreme sport. (bike)
He designed a lot of devices for bikes, some are well*-known and can be seen everywhere. (I just saw one in Costco. He is not B.S. me.) He owns part of the bike factory and he is using the facility to make he ideas come true.
He owns a lot of machines and CNC. He can build out anything he want in coupled days. This is the designer of Fishbone.
FishboneUSA here.
(1) About the director using our product: Tso-Chi Chang
http://www.fishboneusa.com/butterfly.php
more details:
http://movies2.nytimes.com/gst/movies/filmography.html?p_id=212694
(2) We just carried Fishbone to US. (Fishbone is the major brand in Asia. Sold 1bout 150 sets in 6 months) Honestly speaking, I don't have any faith to the stabilizer at all, even the designer told me so many people have been used already. However, in DV Expo, many "pro" come to the booth and tried our products. They give us very positive feedbacks. Especially the manufacturer direct price and free 7" monitor with wiring setup. (Could I mention on the forum? $3XXX)
(3) Anyone wanna borrow and try it?
Drop us an Email. If you are an expert, we are willing to hear your voice! Hope to see our review sooner later. Oh, by the way, we can rent to student. $100/ day but student only.
(4) More about Fishbone designer, Yu:
He is a crazy guy. He didn't graduate from colleague but he was awarded the best inventor in Taiwan by government. He is also an expert/ actor of extreme sport. (bike)
He designed a lot of devices for bikes, some are well*-known and can be seen everywhere. (I just saw one in Costco. He is not B.S. me.) He owns part of the bike factory and he is using the facility to make he ideas come true.
He owns a lot of machines and CNC. He can build out anything he want in coupled days. This is the designer of Fishbone.
fishboneusa
New member
GOD...He just have a new idea. Here is the prototype:
Soren,
I have the Low Mode Clamp thing, but not sure how it is set up. Is it in the main Flyer manual or is there a separate manual?
Any idea where I can get an inexpensive camera plate for it? My friend lost mine, it looks like Adoroma has the lowest price at around $180.. which seems really steep for this part.
I have the Low Mode Clamp thing, but not sure how it is set up. Is it in the main Flyer manual or is there a separate manual?
Any idea where I can get an inexpensive camera plate for it? My friend lost mine, it looks like Adoroma has the lowest price at around $180.. which seems really steep for this part.
soren k jensen
Well-known member
low mode
low mode
Hi Ben,
As far as I know, there is no low mode manual for the Flyer, but as far as I rememeber, the Ultra manual from Tiffen has some good points on low mode. The stedicamforum.com is a great place to learn more and get help from a bunch of guys as helpful as the strange inhabiants in this forum. The bracket goes on top of the arm, and the other end is fixed to the gimbal , secured by the aircraft pin. The clamp for the handle is just mounted around the camera handle with the screws, and the dovetail plate screwed onto the clamp.
I haven't seen an alternative dovetail, but just get the Tiffen one. It works.
Hope all goes well, best, Soren
low mode
Hi Ben,
As far as I know, there is no low mode manual for the Flyer, but as far as I rememeber, the Ultra manual from Tiffen has some good points on low mode. The stedicamforum.com is a great place to learn more and get help from a bunch of guys as helpful as the strange inhabiants in this forum. The bracket goes on top of the arm, and the other end is fixed to the gimbal , secured by the aircraft pin. The clamp for the handle is just mounted around the camera handle with the screws, and the dovetail plate screwed onto the clamp.
I haven't seen an alternative dovetail, but just get the Tiffen one. It works.
Hope all goes well, best, Soren
mikkowilson
Steadi-Guru
$180 for a new dovetail plate is a good deal.
Look at pages 39-41. (There's a good picture of the F-bracket on page 40) of the Steadicam Ultra manual here: http://www.steadicam-ops.com/docs/t_ultramanual_31-45.pdf [2.4MB .pdf] for an good explanation of how to use low mode.
If you have any specific touble, post here and we can help you out.
..
What is that "new idea" that we are looking for in that picture Simon(?) (Fishbone)?
I agree with Kevin, your "operators" in your photos need a workshop pretty badly.
- Mikko
Look at pages 39-41. (There's a good picture of the F-bracket on page 40) of the Steadicam Ultra manual here: http://www.steadicam-ops.com/docs/t_ultramanual_31-45.pdf [2.4MB .pdf] for an good explanation of how to use low mode.
If you have any specific touble, post here and we can help you out.
..
What is that "new idea" that we are looking for in that picture Simon(?) (Fishbone)?
I agree with Kevin, your "operators" in your photos need a workshop pretty badly.
- Mikko