Where's ISO 50 on the 5DM2 latest firmware?

L

lonewolf2koc@hotmail.com

Well-known member
Recently purchase the 5DM2 with latest firmware. Unfortunately ISO 50 is no where to be found. Does it even exist or got removed on the new firmware?

There's a time when using those 400mm-600 mm lenses where you need to reduce light as much as possible. Front ND filters are not possible on those super telephoto lenses. ISO 50 or smaller is the only way to reduce the light. Can't wait for magic hour sunlight.
 
I couldn't find it. Just got the cam.

Here's what I see for the custom function main menu:

C.Fn 1: Exposure
C.Fn II: Image
C.Fn III: Autofocus/Drive
C.Fn IV: Operations/Others
Clear all: Custom Func. (C.Fun)

I do not see anywhere that has the "L". I looked into the C.Fn1. The closest possible is the ISO expansion, but that didn't work. Can you be more specific as to where this C.Fn located or do I have to create one up?
 
I couldn't find it. Just got the cam.

Here's what I see for the custom function main menu:

C.Fn 1: Exposure
C.Fn II: Image
C.Fn III: Autofocus/Drive
C.Fn IV: Operations/Others
Clear all: Custom Func. (C.Fun)

I do not see anywhere that has the "L". I looked into the C.Fn1. The closest possible is the ISO expansion, but that didn't work. Can you be more specific as to where this C.Fn located or do I have to create one up?
 
Ok in C.Fn 1 Highlight Exposure then press the set button in wheel centre this will bring up display saying exposure and little box to right saying 1 turn big wheel until No 3 appears this is exposure iso expansion, choose on as its set to off then get out of menu. now when you choose iso from top window on camera if you turn dial lower than 100 iso a letter L appears this is 50 iso.

cheers

Derek
 
Is there some kind of technical penalty for using ISO 50? You would think ISO 50 would offer superior IQ, but there must be a reason for having this option so deeply buried in the custom function menu...
 
the sensors native ISO is 100. if you use anything lower, you get less dynamic range in the highlights... things will clip to white/blow out more easily.
 
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typo. i meant 100...

but you should all have highlight tone priority enabled... which makes it 200 :)
 
jenningsp said:
typo. i meant 100...

but you should all have highlight tone priority enabled... which makes it 200 :)
Click to expand...

Highlight tone priority doesn't come without issues. It certainly does introduce "noise" in mids. It's just a matter if you have the time to light properly or you're just running and gunning and want to protect yourself from blowouts.
 
are you talking about that test where it has less noise at ISO 320 then 100?

i hear it being referred to everywhere but i'm yet to find a link to a proper test.
 
It's not really a test and wouldn't prove a native ISO, only that increments of 160 are hardware and everything else is software/gain. You only need to select ISO 200 and 320, shoot the same thing exposed the same way and crop out of the 1080 to see the difference.

320 is undoubtedly cleaner than anything between it and 160. The native ISO, though-- which still may not be proven-- is supposed to be 320.
 
Kholi said:
Highlight tone priority doesn't come without issues. It certainly does introduce "noise" in mids. It's just a matter if you have the time to light properly or you're just running and gunning and want to protect yourself from blowouts.
Click to expand...

mmm i'd turn it off for interior/night stuff. but definitely have it on for day exteriors.
 
jenningsp said:
mmm i'd turn it off for interior/night stuff. but definitely have it on for day exteriors.
Click to expand...


It's useful, for sure. I think it scares me mostly because we habitually shoot flat as far as the MKii is concerned and, of course, grading with crawling mids is freaky. I still have yet to decide on a solid workflow for this thing and have since converted back to just shooting RED, weight or not.

Really wishing someone gets it right next time...
 
Kholi said:
It's not really a test and wouldn't prove a native ISO, only that increments of 160 are hardware and everything else is software/gain. You only need to select ISO 200 and 320, shoot the same thing exposed the same way and crop out of the 1080 to see the difference.

320 is undoubtedly cleaner than anything between it and 160. The native ISO, though-- which still may not be proven-- is supposed to be 320.
Click to expand...

cool!!!

so if ISO 320 is the cleanest. and HTP underexposes by a stop and boosts the mids to compensate. does that mean that with HTP enabled the cleanest ISO should be 640?
 
jenningsp said:
cool!!!

so if ISO 320 is the cleanest. and HTP underexposes by a stop and boosts the mids to compensate. does that mean that with HTP enabled the cleanest ISO should be 640?
Click to expand...


Man I thought the same thing. I started using ISO 640 a little while back for everything and it honestly feels like it's right on the money. But I could still see the noise patterns showing up if I really looked hard.

However, for exposure and highlight detail retention it really looks the best to my eyes.

160's much cleaner but highlights roll very fast. It's pretty much the only way to key though. =T
 
Shooting RED is not fun. Period. And once you shoot with something like the GH-1 and how it makes you want to shoot every single moment of your waking life, rarely ever wanting to put the camera down, going to something larger again is exhausting. You start dreading having to put the camera together, etc etc.

RED's image is beast, and right now unparalleled in the digital world, to me, but it's too big to be fun and inspiring.

At this moment, I'm trailing on Hunter Richard's footsteps and looking into shooting 16mm on my next project. If not, in the end, owning a small vintage 16mm package to shoot with in the next few weeks.
 
dude s16mm rocks. i'd prefer it over the RED any day. it's grainy as all hell though. like shockingly grainy after working with digital for so long, but i like grain :)

i've only ever worked with SR2's and SR3's. they're kinda the standard over here. doing handheld is hard on your shoulders with the flat bottom, especially when someone forgets to get a clip on matte box and you have to lug around the full baseplate and rails... i really want to shoot something on an a-minima soon. they look comfortable
 
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