What's your fave ZOOM lens for ENG that has been DECLICKED?

nedcam

nedcam

Well-known member
Although I did this today with a Canon C300, since I own an AF100 I need to figure out what to get declicked:

I had set up four people standing outdoors, when I started it was overcast so I felt my exposure would be constant. Well, the roving interview went on for an hour (handheld) and the clouds started moving so I'd go from bright daylight to dark soup. Unfortunately the Canon 24-70 I was using has click stops so I could not subtly roll exposure without the viewer noticing and creating a lot more work for the editor.

So my question is, when in a documentary/ENG situation where you have to roll exposure live during a shot, what ZOOM lenses are you using that have been declicked? I spoke with Duclos company and the newer lenses with no manual f-stop ring they say can not be de-clicked.

Thanks
 
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Since you own an AF100, which has a 4/3" lens, you could always get an actual ENG lens (that has a built in 2x teleconverter) and an adapter.
 
It is a good zoom range and I am sure that you can roll exposure but...it looks soft to me, not crisp at all.

Plus, the link you have for Abel, there's no way you can have this on your shoulder, handheld, doing ENG documentary work.

But thank you for your response.
 
nedcam said:
It is a good zoom range and I am sure that you can roll exposure but...it looks soft to me, not crisp at all.

Plus, the link you have for Abel, there's no way you can have this on your shoulder, handheld, doing ENG documentary work.

But thank you for your response.
Click to expand...

You can put it on your shoulder, you just need to get some extra stuff like an external viewfinder, and a shoulder mount.
 
A parfocal Nikon-mount lens with a Novoflex adapter or similar. You don't have to modify the lens, the adapter works like a declicked iris.
 
Thanks mcbob, didn't think of that, I have a Novoflex although it's quite stiff.

What cause my rant is three days of shooting with the Canon C300 using Canon zooms that are not able to be declicked. One thing I need to do is have ALL my zooms be from the same manufacturer because I need the zooms to rotate in the same direction.
 
You could really do much, much worse than a set of Nikon zooms.

I'm somewhat going that way myself since getting the Nikon Speedbooster, already have a Sigma 50-150/2.8 and thinking of adding a 17-50/2.8 and 10-20/3.5

If one had the funds, they could certainly do worse than the Nikon 12-24, 24-70, 70-200 triad.
 
nedcam said:
Thanks mcbob, didn't think of that, I have a Novoflex although it's quite stiff.

What cause my rant is three days of shooting with the Canon C300 using Canon zooms that are not able to be declicked. One thing I need to do is have ALL my zooms be from the same manufacturer because I need the zooms to rotate in the same direction.
Click to expand...

im kind of used to the Nikon way now, rotate towards me (with follow focus) as the subject moves closer and rotate away from me when the subject moves away from me, it couldn't be simpler but I always need a few seconds on the way back to other lenses. I've seen the extra gear wheel you can buy for most follow focuses now that allows you to very quickly alter the way the mounted lenses focuses by follow focus, look into that and expand your lens choice options ;)
 
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