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A box full of practicals (at least bulbs) as noted above is also a life saver. I have various wattages in a box I always carry, from 15 watt to 250 watt. First thing we do on set is go swap all the practical bulbs. Generally taking them all down to 15 watt if they are in frame.
I am going through and testing many different kinds of lights and bulbs. If you are shooting guerrilla fictional narrative, after you get a base kit of big, powerful and versatile pro-style lights, it is handy to have a bunch of other lights that can be put together rather inexpensively to give you much more versatility. This is especially important for low budget night exteriors, or in large spaces.
I have read a bit that Roger Deakins, ASC, BSC and Shane Hurlbut ASC have put together and used "Batten Lights" made up of long strips of sockets in which they put various standard medium base incandescent bulbs. Deakins says that he used a light like this on "Jarhead" and there is behind the scenes footage of Hurlbut using on on the short "The Last Three Minutes" http://www.hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/...the-janitor-sequence-from-the-last-3-minutes/ Working from that, I have been getting some bulbs for testing. One if the ones I just got is this one, a 500 watt R-40 shaped incandescent that is made as a replacement bulb for swimming pool lighting.
The specs here:
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/2925/HALCO-104042.html
It is also available on Amazon
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/2925/HALCO-104042.html
I have some 4 socket rigs that are rated for up to 500 watts per socket that I want to test it out in. I will be doing the performance testing this week and will probably post the results in another thread. Just thought I would through that out there. When it comes to lighting, there are many ways to skin a cat... so to speak.
I'm sure they are 15 watt household bulbs. CFL's arent very good to put in your practicals because you can't dim them to taste.
These are very strange questions - I don't think there IS a standard kit. It's a case of looking at the set - and selecting kit, which means either using your own kit which may not be ideal, or renting in the right stuff. I used to do lots of stuff with a 3 redhead kit. It's rarely used now because we now also need to light green screen background, or add decorative lights for the set.
Corporate work means what? presenter to camera with real background, green screen, presentations, arms, meetings, promos - etc? Each needs something different. Tungsten variable beam width Fresnels with barndoors, or open face Redhead types, Softlights with tubes, tubular tungsten, or LED panels? So much different kit now. I tend to think now that buying a 'kit' or a 'set' is no longer a product that will actually do everything anymore. You go to the client to shoot a piece to camera in their office with the intention of it looking 'busy' - but it looks a mess, so you decide to green screen. Different process, different ideal kit.
Everything is too variable nowadays for stock lighting with minimal kit. Variety being the important thing if you need to purchase, not hire. My lighting stock keep growing and growing with every different job seeming to need different kit!
The answer to the thread title what you really need in a lighting kit is "control". No matter what lights you get, without a way to control them, you are lost.
I LOVE LIGHTING, I could talk about lighting setups, and watch pro gaffers work all day, I just love it.
