FS7: What are you lowlight settings?

JoeJITSU

JoeJITSU

Veteran
I'm here doing an event and SLOG3 isn't going to work for me, too much noise. Does anyone have some good settings to use? Just an FYI, this is my 3rd time on this camera but my first time using it for an event for B-roll.
 
If you judge the noise level after proper grading in post, rather than judging by what you are seeing onboard the camera, it might not look so noisy to you. But I agree with Ned, HG7 or HG8 might be a better choice.
 
Actually any of the Custom gammas including the hypergammas or plain vanilla 709 standard 5 ( which is sometimes the best choice IMHO) will be about the same in terms of noise in low light - which is very good.
Choosing the right hyper gamma is actually pretty confusing so people generally recommend 7 or 8 because they have the most dynamic range, but that comes at the expense or advantage of more highlight compression depending on your shot. If you don't need that compression I think the others including 709 std can look better particularly for caucasoian faces in interviews. hyper gamma 4 can be good compromise .
 
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I kind of agree with Lenilenapl that REC709 at HG 4 can be satisfying. I also agree with Doug that judging video quality before post can sometimes bring unnecessary stress. Kind of like judging via a viewfinder that the video looks crappy and then when you get into edit you find the stuff was actually damn good.
Might I suggest using a fast prime or at least a 2.8 good still zoom. That coupled with an ASA of 3200 is pretty dang nice.
 
allenfacemire said:
I kind of agree with Lenilenapl that REC709 at HG 4 can be satisfying. I also agree with Doug that judging video quality before post can sometimes bring unnecessary stress. Kind of like judging via a viewfinder that the video looks crappy and then when you get into edit you find the stuff was actually damn good.
Might I suggest using a fast prime or at least a 2.8 good still zoom. That coupled with an ASA of 3200 is pretty dang nice.
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now that you bring the lens up, what is the best adapter used for the FS7? I use Canon glass by the way.
I have a Metabones on my A7s but it's probably version 1.
 
The inherent signal to noise ratio of the sensor doesn't change with different gamma. So SLOG is no noisier than anything else, it isn't any different from hypergammas in that regard, it's simply a matter of how you process the image.
 
While that is technically true, I generally find that the Hypergammas and S-LOG allow me to push the exposure a little further without clipping; and then after grading, that does result in a less noisy looking image in some circumstances. Although, I'm not sure if that would apply in a low light situation because I rarely shoot in that kind of environment. I also agree with Lenileapi that REC709 (specifically STD5) does create the best looking skintones in a controlled contrast situation.
 
Custom has noise reduction applied , that's why it appears to be better in low light. Also because a smaller dynamic range is stretched across the full range of exposure you probably get more data onto that under exposed image than you would with Log only exposing on the bottom of the picture. That's not a very scientific explanation but if you get my drift it helps explain 2 reasons why custom is cleaner in low light. I don't know if log is as clean if you add noise reduction in post, but that's certainly more time consuming.
 
JoeJITSU said:
now that you bring the lens up, what is the best adapter used for the FS7? I use Canon glass by the way.
I have a Metabones on my A7s but it's probably version 1.
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I'm loving my Metabones Speed Booster. It allows mounting quality still lenses (I use Nikons but they make one for Canon too). With the speed booster, where you would loose up to two stops on a conversion adapter, you actually gain a stop as well as maintain the stated field of view. So a 17-35 is just that.
I have 4 Nikons..17-35, 24-70 (my go-to), 50mm 1.4 Nikor and for interviews , a 70-200. I also have a set of Zeiss primes which so far, I have not used. Probably should consider selling them but they are Nikon mounted. If they were PL 's I could move them in a nanosecond.
Oh and I have sweet Nikon 28-200 which is a bit slow at f3.5-f5.6 but it's a great lens for outdoors.
My suggestion is to keep you eyes peeled for old Nikon's, making sure they are parafocal.
One thing to remember with the Metabones: the back focus will need to be set. Don't believe them when they say not. You WILL have soft focus. I was lucky enough to notice that anomaly when testing my lenses. (Test new glass before you taken them on a job folks).
I was also lucky enough to have s place here in Atlanta, where I could get my glass AND the Metabones checked via a Collimator. Each Medabones has a set screw on the camera mounting side thst allows the rear element to be focused. If you don't have access to a Collimator, you can do it by trial and error. Just set the camera a measured 10' from a resolution chart in low light and have at it.
 
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