VaricamLT: Varicam LT First Impressions

So I stopped by B&H in NY a few days ago and got to play around with the Varicam LT for about 15 minutes. The B&H guy there didn't seem to know the camera too well, so I was on my own to figure out some basics in a short time. Perhaps those with more experience with the camera can clarify some possible misgivings I had with it. Again, I just had a short time with it, so some of the below may be oversights, which I'm curious to find out if they are or not. In quotes here are initial thoughts I texted to a colleague who is considering the camera just after leaving the store...

"I'm not a fan of the control module. Doesn't seem as well balanced on the shoulder as the Amira. Image in the viewfinder wasn't that great, but perhaps peaking was on and I couldn't figure out how to turn it off. WB controls are a bit wonky, uses presets and I couldn't figure out how to dial in exact temperatures quickly. Native ISO 5000 looked a lot noisier than Native 800. In camera noise reduction helped quite a bit, but only has an on/off settings unlike the C-series which is 1-12.

Three XRL inputs is nice. Happy to see that the control module can also display the camera's image."


I couldn't find peaking. Where is that turned on and off?

The WB controls had presets of 2700, 3200, 4300, 5600, 6500. Going into the menu (which I did via the control panel) I was able to adjust, if I recall rightly, plus and minus from the presets, to get more specific numbers, but this method wasn't particularity quick to do. When controlling the camera from the viewfinder with the viewfinder's control dial, it only showed me the preset WB numbers, without an option to dial in specific numbers. Can you dial in specific numbers without the control module?

Overall I found the body to be heavily lacking in buttons. My C300 Mark II has 17 buttons on the main body (not including the LCD portion), most of which are assignable. I count six buttons on the Varicam LT (not including the viewfinder and control module). How easy/difficult is it to control the camera in general without the control module? For a camera pretty well designed for shoulder use I'm having a hard time figuring out the thinking in the placement of the control module. The B&H guy said the camera is difficult to control without the control module.

The control module doesn't seem as nimble in positioning as say, the LCD on an FS7 or C300, which can be placed on several different positions on the camera. The control module also seems a bit wobbly on the camera, as I didn't see a way to tighten it down hard. I almost feel like for Steadicam use I'd need to gaff tape it down. Another thing that bothers me about it is that even though you can have the camera's image displayed on it, the size and position of the screen seem to indicate they don't intend you to use that as your main screen, and expect you to use an external monitor, which means three monitors (viewfinder, control module, and third party external monitor) to work with the camera, which is fine for some types of shoots, but not for others.

I put the viewfinder as far away from the camera as it could go, and it still seemed a bit close to the camera, as my face was still touching the side of the camera, and if someone had a larger head, this could be more of an issue (unless there's more adjustment than I thought was possible).
 
you can assign WB or almost anything in the camera rather simply, just tap the ADD button and dial in your chosen color temp. Also I a suggestion for any showroom demo is that you ask for the camera to be factory reset, because there is no way of know what setting the last person toying around with the floor model did.
I have to say that as a former Sony F5 owner who now owns the LT. the menu and the control panel are the easiest thing to use outside of an ARRI or the Kinefinity Kinemax.
So far the only Valid complaints I have are the reboot after certain changes but you can make all your changes before the reboot, and the lack of manual audio controls on the body.
Yes even Panasonic has stated that 5000 iso base is a bit noisier than 800 iso. (it's bloody 5000 iso) The general consensus from other users is if you're looking for clinically clean images in questionable lighting situations. Set the camera base iso to 5000 and the dial it down from there. I;E camera sensor base iso at 5000 and set your ISO to 2000 or 3600 or what ever number under 5000 that you chose.
As for noise reduction I've owned the camera a month now and haven't had any need to use it ever (actually I doubt I know where to find it in the menu)

AS far as the camera body goes. I've owned a RED a Sony F5 etc and this is the first camera I feel comfortable renting out. it's built like a German tank and I love that.
I don't think the control module was ever intended to be used as a monitor.
As a former "give me buttons on a camera" guy I am quite happy with the 6 buttons. (one of My DPs 11 year old daughter was able to figure out and use the cameras control system in 15 minutes) it took me at least a week of menu diving to figure out my F5 when I first bought it.

you can pretty much assign anything you want to a preset. For instance out of the box you won't find 1/48 shutter. Just tap the add button and set 1/48 and save and you now have 1/48 shutter (go crazy and set it to 1/50 if you'd like).

As for the viewfinder. I considered other options but went with the Varicam viewfinder Even at the extra cost. I personally liked it better than the gratical options (it certainly doesn't feel like it'll break, fall apart or have the circuit boards exposed to the elements like the Gratical HD).
I'd suggest getting someone who knows their way around the camera to show you around it next time you have a go at it.

I can't say anything about personal preferences of individual shooters, but I'm in a position to make an objective evaluation of the camera having owned or used everything else in its class. I made my decision to upgrade to a varicam based on the image quality alone (from my experience working as an assistant on a netflix Doc that shot on the Varicam 35).
I will make a statement about the Varicam LT. it is right now probably the easiest camera to use in and above it's class.
it also creates the Best images from any camera under $25,000 (I understand that this is subjective, and obviously my opinion, but one formed after Owning an F5 for 2 plus years. Shooting with a c300 mark 2 for two months. and I shoot professional sports on an Epic twice a month)
bellow are some links to some helpfull prespectives on the Varicam LT (primarily because they are from people who are not accustumed to shooting on panasonic cameras)

http://cinescopophilia.com/comparing-to-the-panasonic-varicam-lt-to-the-sony-fs7-camera/

https://vimeo.com/161734633

http://www.bendevelin.com/blog/varicamreview
 
Last edited:
Yes even Panasonic has stated that 5000 iso base is a bit noisier than 800 iso. (it's bloody 5000 iso) The general consensus from other users is if you're looking for clinically clean images in questionable lighting situations. Set the camera base iso to 5000 and the dial it down from there. I;E camera sensor base iso at 5000 and set your ISO to 2000 or 3600 or what ever number under 5000 that you chose.
As for noise reduction I've owned the camera a month now and haven't had any need to use it ever (actually I doubt I know where to find it in the menu)

After 7 weeks of daily use (V35 rather than LT, but should be identical results), I can confirm that ISO 2000 down from the native 5000 is visually the same noise-wise as native 800. And the noise at 5000, while clearly visible, should be able to be tamed by decent noise-reduction in post (it has been recommended to me that this is preferably to the camera's internal noise reduction).
 
Only 6 buttons?!?!!?!!!

10 User assignable buttons. In addition everything is also accessible in the EVF menu, so you literally dont have to take your eye from the EVF to do anything.

And the noise at 5000, while clearly visible, should be able to be tamed by decent noise-reduction in post (it has been recommended to me that this is preferably to the camera's internal noise reduction).

Completely concur. Post is far better though a little slower. I also find that at ISO5000 the outcome is better if the entire frame is lit for 5000, rather than just your, well what seems a trend these days to use little or no light. It performs far better than the C300MKII in similar conditions.
 
10 User assignable buttons. In addition everything is also accessible in the EVF menu, so you literally dont have to take your eye from the EVF to do anything.
I was just kidding. I don't use many buttons. I am a minimalist. User asignable buttons are very nice though.
 
Back
Top