using shutter speeds

[AdamTheGreat]

hey i just started working with a dvx100b and am not using 24p. i was filming a quick shot outside and was trying to get a good depth of field so i opened the iris and to keep things from being too lite i had to make the shutter speed faster. when watching my footage whenever somthing moves fast you can see lines going across left to right and its kind of blurry. why is this? can i fix this? and i thought if i was shooting fast movements i was supose to make the shutter speed faster?

 

[Kevin Dorsey]

You are correct that using a faster shutter speed will catch action with less motion blur, but when shooting in interlaced mode, you are going to see the jagged lines of the different fields. These won't be noticed when you view your footage on a television. A nice compromise would be to shoot 30p.

-Kevin

 

[Gauranga]

It sounds like you are trying to darken your image (because your iris is all the way open everything is very bright) using the shutter. While of course this makes sense in a weird kind of way (faster shutter = less light = darker image) you might try using your ND instead. I think you'll find that it solves your problem without creating any new problems. Try the same setup with the shutter "off", ND on 1/8 and see what happens.

 

[AdamTheGreat]

i had the nd set to 1/8th, putting it at 1/64th was too dark so i did 1/8th and had the shutter speed at like 250 or 500 i think

 

[Joshua Provost]

Adam,

Yeh, the built-in ND's are pretty large steps. 3 stops each. That's a lot of light. Sometimes you need in-between steps to get it right. Shutter is the wrong way to go about it, though, because a fast shutter speed gives your footage a whole different look. It will be stroby when things move, like Saving Private Ryan.

For most things, keep the shutter at 1/60 for interlaced and 1/48 for 24p. Use as much ND as you can, then fine tune with the iris. Your target should be F2.8, so you have flexibility to use the zoom. Control light and camera to get around F2.8 exposure.

If you want in-between control of ND, get a 1 stop (ND.3) and a 2 stop (ND.6) ND filter to have around. Then, you can combine those with the built-in ND to get anywhere from 1 stop to 9 stops of ND with 1 stop control, depending on how you combine them.

Josh

 

[maxx]

Joshua is right Adam. You have to be very certain about Shutter as it changes the whole mood of the scene. For shutter thing, stick to what you like ( I'm loving it at 1/120 @24P). Okay, for film like DOF, try your level best to keep iris OPEN, whenever you can,( close-up, tight, mid, full, only long exempted). I dunno why is it taking so long for Panasonic people to give us Dial thing with ND instead of that Damn gear-box. Anyways I had been doin' it very successfully till date, stopping the ND lever halfway with fingers. I figured it out that inside mechanism works like a dial and is free from Nill to 1/64 settings. (Move from Nill > 1/8 or from 1/8 > 1/64 very slowly, not letting the lever go next fixed position very easly or fast) .Get hold of lever by placing thumb and finger next to on up and downside of it. press finger and thumb against each other when lever is just between the two and at the same time use strength of your hand to move the lever up or down (Do it very slowly). Thumb and finger opposing each other neutralize the extra pressure than tiny lever had to take. Get good hang of it and you never ever need to put those extra NDs GDs, One Linear and one circular polarizer at the same time just for sake of keeping the shutter and Iris desirable and still stopping that Zebra go white like Swan.