F3: Using a real EVF on the F3 - the Sony HDV-F20a

Like most people here, I have been struggling with finding a truly suitable EVF solution for the F3. I've gone through several permutations with varying degrees of success. Ultimately before my final solution the only one I was happy with was hanging a Marshall 651STX in place of where the EVF would go.

I had been toying with going with a real ENG style EVF for a while but the price point was intimidating. However, I hit a brick wall about a month ago on a shoot with my then current setup which was hanging a SmallHD EVF off with the beautifully crafted Solid Camera EVF swivel mount.

I was shooting in Slog and the flesh tones on the subject went all plastic. I went berserk and flipped through the menu system turning the monitor to "monochrome", greyscale which gave me immediate relief. I could now concentrate on focusing, framing and had enough attention left over to think about next shots, etc.

By the end of the shoot, I knew I could work with a greyscale EVF and was reminded of a shooter here that has a setup using a Sony ENG styled EVF in combination with the AbleCine ProVFM mount / transformer solution. At the time (a year ago), I thought "too expensive". I will never do it and I wasn't sure if I could cope with the greyscale EVF and risk the investment to find out I had made a horrible mistake. The other solution was more expensive and less elegant which was to go to more expensive color EVF and have a power sucking converter and all the extra cables hanging off the side of the camera which was necessary to get the color EVF to work on the F3.

Fortunately, I had seen a number of excellent shooters in the past swear up and down that the Sony B&W HDV-F20a EVF was superb as a focusing tool and many would state they would not part with it for love or money. For me, The sealing event was turning my SmallHD EVF into greyscale mode and seeing first hand that on a modern camera it is indeed possible to shoot using a B&W EVF without hindering the process.

A fortune would have it I found a new "out of box" Sony HDV-F20a on eBay within a day or two of making my decision to go this route. Then I managed to get the ProVFM mount/transformer kit through AbleCine. Many thanks to Mitch Gross at AbleCine who managed to pull together the kit for me in lightening speed. I was expecting a long wait given the order lead time specified on their website.

Well all I can say now is I no longer have a love-hate relationship with my F3. I now enjoy shooting with it and don't feel compromised by the viewfinder. I can nail focus repeatedly with ease, setup the brightness and contrast in a LUT way of thinking and I can get the tonality of the shot nailed without having to fiddle with the grey card wondering if I have the tonality adjusted properly, the camera has shed a couple of pounds and it is WAY more balanced side to side, I don't have to take the EVF contraption off before going in the bag, the wiring is elegant, the EVF sips on the power, you can stand six to 10 inches back from the EVF and still see the image, so you can look at both the EVF and the LCD in your field of vision to look at the center brightness and histogram on the LCD, the articulation of the EVF makes using the EVF and the camera a pleasure to use, it's got a real adjustable diopter, you don't get screen burn if you have the viewfinder lens pointing skyward to the sun and as I mentioned earlier you can nail focus with ease time and time again.

I don't know if AbleCine have F3s setup with their ProVFM and a proper EVF but if they do and you are considering this route I would pay them a visit.

Some pics just after the initial installation...

EVF2.jpgEVF9.jpgEVF8.jpgEVF7.jpgEVF5.jpg
 
Hi Andrew - nice write up and I appreciate how you came to your decision. I'm fairly new to the F3 world, but not at all new to shooting or ENG viewfinders. I'm curious to know how you deal with exposure given the lack of zebras in this setup. I considered going this route until I found zebras lacking and went with the Alphatron.

Thanks,
Brian
 
Hi Brian,

The same way I do when I set up my Marshall. First I get the camera properly setup with exposure in Slog mode with that typically being using the trick of shooting a grey card and getting the exposure meter in camera to read 38%. Now you have a reference point. Then I simply wack out the brightness and contrast on a setup with the until I have the image looking as it should in B&W. Voila, effectively an impromptu LUT created with contrast & brightness controls.

Once you do that simply take you camera around indoors and outside and try setting up shots and then verify if things are good with a grey card and the histogram. Things should essentially be in the vicinity of where they should be exposure wise.
 
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I've had that same setup for quite awhile and really like it. As an old ENG guy, it was not a difficult transition.
I have had some issues with VF mount not staying perfectly level...it's something I have to check before each shoot.
 
Thanks guys - I appreciate that (and hi john...it's been a while!)
Not sure this would work in my world which is mainly Network ENG where things move pretty fast, (I know John's been there) but I understand how it works in the given application. Thanks again.
 
Hiya Brian!
Funny thing is I use it specifically for run and gun. It's good enough for framing and focus.
Having used VF20's for years on an HDCam, I can pretty much tell what's happening for exposure, but I always fly a SmallHD monitor at the same time, so I will refer to that for exposure if I don't trust what I'm seeing.
 
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