Usage Hours Reading?

OK- I've been demoing an HD100 for the last couple of weeks- and I'm ready to pull the trigger on this thing by late March/early April. I'm completely sold.

I've got an offer from our A/V rep to buy the demo model at a good discount, which didn't sit well with me at first, but with the problems that some people have had getting in the more recently produced models in favor of the older ones, I'm starting to consider it simply because the demo unit is functioning well and doesn't exhibit any of the calibration or dead pixel issues.

What I'd like to do, though, before committing to this thing, is check the amount of usage it's seen. I know that a lot of pro cams have a menu you can backdoor your way into to check how many total hours of operation the camera has seen- is there such a feature hidden away in the HD100? I'd hate to pay out this kind of money only to find that it's seen 500 hours worth of wear and tear.

Any other advice on the terms/caveats of acquiring the camera this way would be welcome. This is a bigger personal investment in A/V gear than I've ever made before. It's one thing when I'm spending the studio's money for gear to use on the job- but it's amazing how things change when it's your own checkbook getting whipped out...
 
filmguy1974

Go to menu and scroll down to "OTHERS" -select- >Scroll down to "next page" -select- and there you'll find "DRUM HOUR" AND "FAN HOUR". i

Hope this helps. And by the way, I think you got it inverted when you say people have preblems with recently produced models. I believe its the first ones out that has the problems, wherein SOME of these, have SSEs and dead pixels.
BUT, if the unit in your hands NOW doesn't have these, then I think you should go with this unit. I just got our unit 12 days ago, its part of a new batch shipped in from Japan, Since I'm in Asia, and I have not seen a hint of SSE or dead pixels in low light, with or without gain.

The analogy of aquiring an item this way, being a computer techie somewhat, is like what we say in the computer world. "its better to go for a 'breaked in' system, meaning a unit or system thats already up and running for a while , as compared to a fresh-out of tha box unit".

My last advice, based on my still limited experience with this unit is, get enough bricks! - This camera is GREEEEDDDDYYY for power.
 
teddybear said:
Hope this helps. And by the way, I think you got it inverted when you say people have preblems with recently produced models. I believe its the first ones out that has the problems, wherein SOME of these, have SSEs and dead pixels.

Sorry- I didn't phrase that part of my post very intelligently. Indeed, what I was trying to get at was that a more recently produced model would be favorable. I've just noticed that a lot of dealers are still sticking people with older stock despite their customers' requests to the contrary.

Thanks for the info on the drum and fan hour readings! Don't know how many times I must have navigated right by it without even noticing.

As for the power thing- I'm just going to go right for the throat and get the IDX kit.
 
stephenlnoe said:
If you decide to get it new then Tapeworks has extended the IDX offer until the end of March. If you purchase in March they will honor the IDX kit deal offered by JVC.

Here is the thread with the details

good luck and keep shooting....
That's awesome, Stephen, thanks for the info. I'll keep that bookmarked in the event that I go in the direction of a new cam.
 
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