Uprez DVX-100 24PA footage to HD

O

oldmanhovercraft

Member
I am shooting a documentary on a DVX-100. I am shooting letterbox (DVX-100 does not have squeeze mode), in 24PA, editing in FCP 24P timeline, and hoping to uprez the project to 16:9 HD. I want the movie to look good on HD televisions - played on DVD, or broadcast HD if necessary. I have quite a few questions.

What should be the order of my workflow? Shoot, capture, uprez, then edit, or should I edit, then uprez? What are the advantages/disadvantages?

What software and settings should I use to uprez the footage? I have Compressor, but I would be interested in purchasing other software if it will produce better results.

I have been shooting in Thin mode on the DVX. Any warnings/info in terms of capturing/conversion issues, etc.?

Is it worth it to go through the uprez process? What will I gain and/or lose from the process? If I edit in a 24P SD timeline, and make DVD's, will it look the same on an HD TV as and uprez HD project?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
hi it's comic i'm searching the best rule to do this i think the best idea is to use photozoom pro as said in the dvd from barry green but i search the topic i know it exist a topic i feedback you short
 
Honestly, most of the conversion engines in modern TVs and DVD players scale SD just fine. The only thing I do to my footage that even remotely affects the resolution is some 4:1:1 chroma smoothing during the colour correction phase of post. If you're going to be delivering a dvd at the end of it all then why would you bother scaling your footage to 1080 and then back down to its original resolution? If you were delivering on bluray I could maybe see doing this, maybe, but it's more hassle than it will ever usually be worth.
 
as said in the dvd from barry green, comparaison to another camcorder that shoot in hd, man need to uprize the dvx shoot as the same size from a hd camcorder.
When done, Dvx uprized footage as much more contrast and film look as other cheaper hd cam.
Long life to dvx100
 
Man can also uprize sd to hd and then put the movie on a hard disk mediaplayer wich deliver hd on lcd. No money lose for a blueray writter and player.
 
I'd shoot, capture, edit and uprez.

In regards to uprez software, my advice would be to save your money.

It all comes down to how well-shot and -lit the SD footage is. I've used FCP and Premiere's encoders (sans plug-ins) to output in HD (720 and 1080) with decent results. Keep in mind that SD footage will always look like SD footage (even on a HD device), and even worse when blown up to 2k (film), so the main focus should be on getting the best picture out of the camera as possible, given your limitations.

Given the pitfalls of using an anamorphic or 35mm adapter (you lose several stops of exposure on both, and focal range with the Panasonic AA), letterboxing or shooting full-frame is, in my opinion, the ideal way to use the DVX100. If you don't mind the resolution loss with LB, it's a great way to frame your shots, as you don't have to deal with underscanning issues when going full-frame or anamorphic. Squeeze Mode is a pain to deal with, and unlike letterboxing, you have to contend with framing issues, as the viewable image is both compressed and underscanned.

You'll want to crop out the letterboxing and frame the remaining picture to a 16:9 aspect ratio. For web or hard drive output, 640x360 SD and 1280x720 / 1440x1080 HD, using a 1.0 aspect ratio (Square). The encoded file should retain the anamorphic ratio, even when you resize or enlarge the player.

For DVD and BluRay, it's a little tricker, as you need to conform to the player's standards to display properly (720x480 SD and standard 720 or 1080 HD). You could choose to output letterboxed footage (cropped or uncropped) as 16:9, although the result will be pillarboxed. When letterboxed and pillarboxed, at least you retain the aspect ratio and maintain the original resolution, but the picture will be centered. Your goal is to fill the frame, so cropping might be necessary. Be prepared for distortion from blowup, though.

Most importantly, you'll want to make sure that your output is broadcast safe to avoid playback issues (luma/saturation, ghosting, etc.), as the hardware the studio and home audience uses will vary.

Lastly, as previously mentioned, some players can upconvert SD to HD, although the results will be less than satisfactory.
 
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I'd shoot in squeeze mode 16:9, capture, edit, clean with Neat Video, then uprez to 720p with InstantHD...BUT I would also output an SD version. Use the SD for almost everything, and if by chance you need the 720, it'll be there.
 
It gives a even data rate, instead of a variable one. because if it is variable then at time it will be lower than you would like it, so restrict and not only is the file size smaller, but the quality is great.
 
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