UPDATE: GlenColor picture profiles

Thanks Frank, I've been using your recommendations since the last profile
Can you tell me how you're getting to the settings you're using? What do you look for?
 
1. Gazing at waveform monitors, charts and vector-scopes till my eyes pop out.
2. Do some real world tests under different lighting conditions and scenarios
3. Grading in different applications and see how far I can (and need to) push it.

What I´m looking for? The perfect skin tones (for my taste) and workflow.


Frank
 
Do you feel that these settings are giving you full dynamic range? Do you pull down the super whites in post?Also, do you lean towards under exposure to protect highlights, or over exposure to boost your shadows or subject? Do you find yourself returning to any kind of curve consistently while grading?
 
What I do is:

1. Dialing in my DOF for the scene.
2. Correct the highlights with an variable ND, till the 100% zebras go away (or use a WFM).
3. bring the black levels to zero via the “Black Level” PP setting.

Number 3 is a bit awkward and time consuming, but the only way, to use as much of the 8 bit room as possible.
Believe me, it´s worth the fiddling in the menu. (for fast jobs or run&gun, I use one of the other presets, depending on if they go trough post or not.)

My further workflow goes like this:

Convert everything to Cineform (Film)
Drop them all in Premiere and start editing.
When I´m happy with the edit, I open first light and do the
primary CC in FirstLight – set “Linear” on in and output – maybe also apply a look (LUT) there.
If something special is needed, I also use Magic Bullet or Mojo in Premiere on top of everything.

In most of my productions, I have nothing over 80 IRE (with some exceptions of course) aside form little reflections on water or chrome.
Skin tones live in 50 IRE neighborhood. So it´s mostly the lower two thirds of range (with some spikes) where I end up in post.

Frank
 
stoked to set these up! i only have like 3 of my PPs in use so itll be fun to play around with this.
 
Hi Glen, just wondering, your profile pictures aren't meant for doing any additional colour correction correct in post right? They are a "look" you basically use as you get it right?
 
Well, with any camera delivering only 8 bit and 4:2:0 you should do quite limited color correction in post. Nothing extreme or you'll blow your images. This is not S-log or RAW.

I really appreciate what Glen has done, but if you need different looks, dial them into the cam by yourself!
 
Heres a quick screen grab i just took from a shoot on friday, this is with the posted PP and a tamron 17-50
354247.png
 
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eheath said:
what exactly do you do to do this?
Click to expand...
FYI.....
I use a SmallHD DP6 monitor with my acquisition. This monitor does not have a WFM, however, it has a false color mode that will display IRE<3 as dark blue. Using this feature, it works very well to adjust black level until the shadows are where you want them.
 
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Yeah, you ether need waveform or false color to do this.

I look at my waveform, dial in my highlights, than I go to the PP menu and adjust my blacks just a hair over zero.

Frank
 
You have to do a proper white balance whenever your light situation changes.
Check if our WB is off. If your problem is still there, please post some images and the profile and settings you used, so I can help you.

Frank
 
Frank, what is the benefit of converting to Cineform (Film) before plugging the clips into Premiere?
 
Though Premiere can play AVCHD fine, it gets a bit "sticky" when you add a lot of grading and effects, even on a macho Cuda computer.
Converting them to Cineform makes things a bit more fluid and I love to grade with FirstLight - but that´s just a personal thing.

Also if you plan a lot of "round trips" in post, Cineform is more robust than AVCHD.

Frank
 
Postmaster said:
You have to do a proper white balance whenever your light situation changes.
Check if our WB is off. If your problem is still there, please post some images and the profile and settings you used, so I can help you.

Frank
Click to expand...

Yes, I did white balance 3 or 4 times, nothing changed. I used this picture profile:

GlenColor1:

Black Level: (basic) 0, (controlled = variable)
Gamma: Standard
Black Gamma: Range = High / Level = +7
Knee: Point = 102.5% / Slope = -1
Color Mode: Type = ITU709 / Level =8
Color Level: -4
Color Phase: -4
Color Depth: all 0
WB Shift = LB -3, cc -5
Detail = Level = -3 / Manual Set = on
V/H Ballance +2
BW Ballance Type3
Limit 7
Chrispening 0
Highlight Detail 0
Click to expand...

This an image from a test shoot. It's not a well done clip (I just turned on the camera, put it on the table, I did white balance and I adjusted gain, stop), however it's all too yellowish (my sweater is not as orange as it should be, the wardrobe is not as brown as it should be etc).

RcrwM.jpg

P.S.

Check if our WB is off
Click to expand...

What do you mean? Auto WB?
 
Are you sure you did a proper WB procedure? The wall and the door should be white (unless they are yellowish in real life) after that, no mater what profile you use.

1 Set the AUTO/MANUAL switch to MANUAL.
2 Press the WHT BAL button
3 Set the white balance memory switch to A or B
4 Capture a white subject, such as white paper, full-screen in the same lighting
condition as the one in which the subject is.
5 Press the (one push) little button on the left side of the A/B/Preset switch.
The adjusted value is stored in A or
B. The stored color temperature appears for about 3 seconds.
 
Postmaster said:
Are you sure you did a proper WB procedure? The wall and the door should be white (unless they are yellowish in real life) after that, no mater what profile you use.

1 Set the AUTO/MANUAL switch to MANUAL.
2 Press the WHT BAL button
3 Set the white balance memory switch to A or B
4 Capture a white subject, such as white paper, full-screen in the same lighting
condition as the one in which the subject is.
5 Press the (one push) little button on the left side of the A/B/Preset switch.
The adjusted value is stored in A or
B. The stored color temperature appears for about 3 seconds.
Click to expand...

I've aleady done these steps yesterday. However I've done all the procedure again and the problem seems fixed. Thanks.
 
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