Understanding and Optimizing the Nikon D90 D-Movie Mode Image

Kholi said:
You can't lock anything before you go into Live View mode... Anything you've done, for a split second, even if you lock it before hand, is erased prior to entering.
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I just uploaded a video that demonstrates adjusting aperture manually with a D (AF lens), the 50mm f1.4D.

http://www.vimeo.com/1715441

BTW, Kholi thanks for writing all you have about getting more out of the D90. I've learned a lot from your posts.
 
In another post someone compared the D90 with the HVX and Kholi you said that if the HVX had an adapter it'd be a better comparison. To me, not really. You take an HVX out of the box it's not going to have an adapter, it's an accessory, where the D90 out of the box doesn't need that extra accessory. Another thing, is that with all the other camera's aren't you stuck at one ASA? Where at least with the D90 you can trick it into a better ISO. Even though we can't fully control it, at least we can show better lowlight footage than most DV cams. So 2 major downfalls are the rolling shutter and the lack of shutter control.
 
That's another way to peer at it, Car3o and I don't disagree, either. In that case, I think that the HVX vs d90, the HVX clearly exceeds the image quality but with a better-dialed-in d90 that could change. Also, if it needs to be said: the HVX also costs thousands more and doesn't feature an interchangeable lens system either.

Guess that means I need to finish up the fourth part of this here thingy and do a 200A and d90 side-by-side.
 
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Kholi,
if you do a side by side, can you please show some lowlight and dynamic range comparisons? Thanks!
 
...and please, some detail comparison too. It would be nice if you could shoot trees, foliage and stuff... real world detail.
 
suggestion when locking exposure (taken from photo usage)

- when matrix sets its value 5 factors are evaluated: focus sensor, distance from the lens when available (D lenses), overall brightness, colors and contrast
- if you have a D lens not only the area under the current focus sensor is given a priority but the 3d depth as well. the whole current DOF is put in good exposure (hence the name 3d matrix metering)
- highlights very out of focus if small enough may be overexposed in situations when the camera can't properly expose focus areas.

so when you lock exposure think about this in order to get a very fast good lock for your scene and subjects. video mode's matrix probably works in a similar way
 
dave12781 said:
I don't think Exposure Compensation determines shutter speed, but it is a useful tool to adjust before shooting, and it won't effect your exposure setting. Simple press and hold the PLAY button and select up or down.

More to come.
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That's just the display brightness. Check the recording to verify.
 
Kholi said:
Lookin' good.

It looks like the light is adjusting, is the AE-L (hold) on?
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It is on. I found this strange as well, and not sure what is causing it. Obviously, the aperture change has some effect on light level, but the camera is doing _something_ to make small adjustments. I took the aperture ring all the way from f1.4 to f22 (8 stops). The camera doesn't have this much range, so it's compensating with either ISO or shutter speed or both, even though AE lock is on.

I'm new to video, but a seasoned DSLR user.
 
esmoore said:
It is on. I found this strange as well, and not sure what is causing it. Obviously, the aperture change has some effect on light level, but the camera is doing _something_ to make small adjustments. I took the aperture ring all the way from f1.4 to f22 (8 stops). The camera doesn't have this much range, so it's compensating with either ISO or shutter speed or both, even though AE lock is on.

I'm new to video, but a seasoned DSLR user.
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Strange indeed. Have you set it to AE-L (hold)? I don't get any small adjustments when I do this. Gonna have to record here soon. Was waitin' til free time this saturday to do some explanation videos.
 
Would that not be the gain/ISO trying to auto adjust the scene exposure? At this stage I thought that element was still uncontrollable, which almost makes sense since this is the first time I have seen somebody change the aperture during recording. I bet if you left it at an f/4 for example, and panned around, the exposure would stay the same, assuming you are in AE-L hold.
 
Right, I think the AE-L (hold) on esmoore's Camera is on "press and hold". The Exposure Adjustmet looks like it's jumpin' aroud because it's not actually locked.

Andrew, did you get your camera yet
 
Great idea Kholi, too bad their isnt a way to lock these in as a preset or something, that way when you do it once, every time you go to shoot all you have to do is adjust aperture.

In your post, are you saying that shooting at different apertures automatically adjusts the shutter speed and ISO for you? Like saying their is no way to shoot at an f/11 at 1/60 shutter and 200 ISO?
 
Andrew Brinkhaus said:
Great idea Kholi, too bad their isnt a way to lock these in as a preset or something, that way when you do it once, every time you go to shoot all you have to do is adjust aperture.

In your post, are you saying that shooting at different apertures automatically adjusts the shutter speed and ISO for you? Like saying their is no way to shoot at an f/11 at 1/60 shutter and 200 ISO?
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I'll update the post but basically, if you're at 200 ISO by using a 1.4 aperture, set by a 50 percent exposed shadow, afterward you have the freedom to use the manual aperture as you see fit.

Naturally, that means that there's a lot less light for you to work with. But, it doesn't stop you from engaging any smaller apertures by any means at all.

Adversely, a faster shutter can be employed on a wider aperture. You would simply use a bright source, stop the iris down to about, say f5.6? And aim it at the bright source. The shutter will adjust properly and I think you should have a relatively low ISO.

More expermineting soon.
 
So basically you could just use the aperture to adjust how the wall or gray card or shadow, etc exposes, and then lock that in and change the aperture to the desired stop? I didn't know that after you set the ISO and used the AE-L (hold) that the ISO and gain wouldn't continue to change based on the light levels...
 
Exactly. The thing is, once you go back to this: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showpost.php?p=1398587&postcount=3

You'll see that you engage AE-L (hold) before you even go into LV (Live View) mode. Once you're in live View you don't touch AE-L (hold) at all. Unless you want to go back to auto mode. You point the camera at the 50 percent grey (example) by looking through the viewfinder eyepiece and then engage Live View.

So, set your desired ISO and Shutter with the method outlined, THEN use your aperture for desired DOF or to control exposure. Chances are you're gonna be employin' external filters with this sucker.

That's fine, though.
 
got me confused....

1. Without turning on LV mode, set the camera in Manual Mode.
2. Turn on AE-L (LOCK)
3. Close your Iris down to an f5.6 ~ 8
4. Aim the camera at a wall or surface that's brightly lit.
5. Activate LV mode.

Once this LV activated,aren`t you gonna lose the AE-L?
 
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