Two-parter: steadicam and anamorphic.

S

samuelreich

Active member
This is a two-part question.

Firstly, I'm wondering if anyone can recommend some low-end steadicam equipment. I've been increasingly impressed by steadicam's general ease-of-use and mobility (rather than my bulky, stoic cobra crane) and am eager to own one.

Secondly, I'm using a standard DVX100. Am I right that the DVX100A comes with a 16x9 setting that simply lays the appropriate black matts over the top and bottom of the picture? And that even with the anamorphic lens people prefer to use this setting for close-ups? But people generally like the anamorphic lens?

Finally, sorry to commercialize, but I run an Internet comedy series shot entirely on the DVX100... if you have a chance, check it out: www.DutchWest.tv.

Thanks eternally.
 
I own a $7,000 Steadicam Flyer and a $1,500 Anton Bauer charger to charge the batteries for it (haven't decided on which bricks to buy yet--NBC loaned me a ProPac14 in the meantime).

The other day, I tried a FigRig with a DVX100A. I was shocked by the fluidness of my shots with that thing! Damned if that $300 wheelie-thingy ain't almost as good as my Steadicam Flyer!
 
NBC.. are you *serious* about the Fig-rig?
I got an inverse impressoin when I tried it the other week at IBC. It's a fine accesory handle, but it don't go near the Flyer I use, for steadicam shots.
Also the Manfrotto reps there where openly saying that they arn't making it as a replacement for the Steadicam, but as a unrelated accesory for shooting "[another tool in the grip box]"

- MIkko
 
NBCshooter said:
I own a $7,000 Steadicam Flyer . . .
Click to expand...

NBCShooter- Can I ask you a couple of things about your flyer? I am about to plunk the money down for one after I get back from the steadicam ops workshop beginning this (upcoming) weekend near Philadelphia. Looks to me like the perfect match for my DVX100A (and HVX I have on order with Rush). I though about renting one to use when I need it but decided I would never become proficient enough taking that approach. If you don't mind:

How long have you had it . . . have you used it enough to form an impression? Did it take you very long to achieve proficiency that you were satisfied with (or perhaps you have used Steadicam previously)?

Thanks!
 
NBCshooter said:
The other day, I tried a FigRig with a DVX100A. I was shocked by the fluidness of my shots with that thing! Damned if that $300 wheelie-thingy ain't almost as good as my Steadicam Flyer!
Click to expand...

Wow, I am amazed to read of your impressions of the FigRig. I looked at one a few months back and while impressed that it was one of the first new ideas that I have seen in a long time, I didn't see how it could be any advantage as a stabilizer as it would still depend entirely on the operator for any isolation. Based upon your comments, I may have to reconsider my original thoughts on it. Are you sure about the $300 price point? I thought that it was around $600, but I could be wrong.
 
samuelreich said:
Secondly, I'm using a standard DVX100. Am I right that the DVX100A comes with a 16x9 setting that simply lays the appropriate black matts over the top and bottom of the picture? And that even with the anamorphic lens people prefer to use this setting for close-ups? But people generally like the anamorphic lens?
Click to expand...

I use the anamorphic adapter all the time, especially for 2.35 aspect ratio projects. If you are going to do large projection or film out, I think that it is nearly essential. It is a bit of a chore to manage and you are more limited in your choices of aperture for any given focus and zoom settings, but the resolution increase is very notable.
 
Had the Steadicam Flyer for a couple of months (did introduction training course last November) and yes, it is a good match for the DVX100A, and will be better still for the HVX (More mass equals more inertia equals better at resisting shake).

Just had my first proper job (a day and a half) with it matched with a Sony Z1E and it was fine. Combo was light enough to keep the rig on for extended periods, and in fact was able to get by without an assistant (although not recommended!)

Had usual novice problems keeping my horizon level and maintaining correct headroom, but that should come with more practice. Luckily it didn't matter for the music video as the director deliberately wanted extreme angles and a grungy look, and will be fast cutting just the best bits!

However, having done it for real now, I can see it will be at least a couple of months with semi-frequent practice to feel confident with easier "standard" moves that would hold up in a drama shoot. If I don't get enough regular practice, then it will take longer. Different people with have different natural aptitude. My training tutor said one of his fastest learning students was a female dancer - she had amazing footwork and balance.

I decided the same thing that if I was serious about it, I needed to own one to get proficient. Probably never should feel like I've mastered everything, as that would mean I was getting complacent and boring!

Haven't tried the FigRig yet. I imagine it will overlap with Flyer and simple handheld work. That is, some shots will be possible with more than one method, but each method of camera support will be able to do things the others can't, or perhaps just make them easier. So it's just a question of choosing an appropriate tool for the shot.
 
Thank you SO much guys. So based on your responses, let me revise my question: would you recommend, COULD you recommend, any steadicam under $1000?

Muse, thanks for your comments about the anamorphic adapter. Does the resolution increase ever clog up your computer when importing and editing? Is it at all equatable to working with HD in terms of stall?
 
samuelreich said:
Muse, thanks for your comments about the anamorphic adapter. Does the resolution increase ever clog up your computer when importing and editing? Is it at all equatable to working with HD in terms of stall?
Click to expand...

Not in the least as the data rate doesn't change one little bit (pun intended). I have done film out from an anamorphic DVX project and it worked out better than I would have expected. I would certainly advise giving the adapter some serious consideration, I would really miss not having one.
 
mikkowilson said:
NBC.. are you *serious* about the Fig-rig?
I got an inverse impressoin when I tried it the other week at IBC. It's a fine accesory handle, but it don't go near the Flyer I use, for steadicam shots.
Also the Manfrotto reps there where openly saying that they arn't making it as a replacement for the Steadicam, but as a unrelated accesory for shooting "[another tool in the grip box]"

- MIkko
Click to expand...

I'll agree with Mikko here.

What are you smokin' NBC.......

The Figrig does let you attach a multitude of things, at the same time, as it is intended.

But, "Damned if that $300 wheelie-thingy ain't almost as good as my Steadicam Flyer!", if that's what you think, you need to do some serious practicing with your Flyer.
 
Hey Pookie,
BigStein wore out the Steadicam over the weekend on a 24p shoot. It looked very nice and the client was very inpressed.
JohnT
 
BHPhoto sell a low mode kit for the flyer for $379.95 (Optex do it for £250 + 17.5%VAT). Seems a lot of money for 4 bolts, a pin and four bits of metal!

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=192878&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

Does anyone know how necessary or useful this is on the Flyer? I was able to do a lowmode shot by simply inverting the sled, rebalancing, flipping the 7" LCD image in the Menu and flipping the footage in post.

Seems like it would be easy to make a DIY one - the only major concern being the strength/type of the metal used for the armpost and f-bracket I think.
 
Also, can't seem to find any hard detailed info on antlers (I know what they are and seen some pictures from a distance), but no dimensions, specs or closeups. Would you even be able to mount them on a Flyer?

Again, something DIY-able? How heavy should the weights be - presumeably related to camera weight?
 
Antlers can be DIY:ed if you like. The key is that the wights on the ends must be the same (to have a comon CG)
There is no exact specs for the weights - the more you have te more stable it will be (and the heavier too)
Antlers are mounted to a standard dovetail.. .. you would need a 2nd one on your camera to mount the antlers to. - And this would of course require the lowmode kit to get a dovetail up there..
The F bracket get's the camera very nice and low , because of how much it drops the gimble.. you can even use the F-brkacet to get lower in highmode! (called low-highmode)
If you can find a way to mount Antlers to teh base of yrou sled you can also use it to get the camera higher!

I'm sure all the parts of the kit are DIY:able, or you can buy them. Either way, they are all very usefull accesories.

Antlers can be purchased from Brant Fagan. Contact info here: http://www.steadicamforum.com/forums/index.php?showuser=60

-Mikko
 
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