Tokina 16-50 with adaptimax: Iris control?

J

jimdmorrison

Member
So I knew when I bought this that I couldn't use auto iris control, but in my noobness I cannot even figure out how to open the iris at all. :)
 
There is a little spring loaded tab in the lens mount sticking back.
As you move it you'll see iris open.
temporarily you can just (gently) jam a broken off toothpick to keep it in open position.
BTW where did you get this lens?- I'm looking for such focal length
 
jimdmorrison said:
So i have no way of knowing how open it is? It seems difficult to make adjustments. Am I missing something?
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You need to be using an adapter with Iris control, like the Adaptimax Plus or the Novoflex. You don't get specific markings like with a built in iris ring, but you have a general idea where it is, and you can use you waveform and zebras to quickly tweak it to match. I find it is really a minor inconvenience that is easily forgotten about when you get use to that lens, and it is such a nice piece of glass in every other way that you tend to forgive it for being a stupid G/DX style lens when it comes to the aperture control.
 
Oliver Rush said:
You need to be using an adapter with Iris control, like the Adaptimax Plus or the Novoflex.
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Or the $30 one from ebay. I'm still puzzled about the 15x plus price difference... I bought the $30 one, shimmed it, tweaked the spring tension a little and never looked back...
 
Exactly.. You had to spend your time to make it work as it should out of the box. The only cheap adapter if have had any success with is ciecio7's.
 
jimdmorrison said:
So I knew when I bought this that I couldn't use auto iris control, but in my noobness I cannot even figure out how to open the iris at all. :)
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Hi Jim, if you purchased the Adaptimax Plus to Micro 4/3 you can just adjust the lens iris with the built in thumbscrew. We manufacture two types of adapter for Nikon to Micro 4/3. The Adaptimax Original to Micro 4/3 is for Nikon lenses with external aperture rings, and the Adaptimax Plus with a built in thumscrew for Nikon and third party lenses with or without an aperture ring.

Thanks
Steve Shovlar
 
optitek said:
Or the $30 one from ebay. I'm still puzzled about the 15x plus price difference... I bought the $30 one, shimmed it, tweaked the spring tension a little and never looked back...
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I did the same thing with mine... it still sucks. I shimmed it and took out the play. I don't have infinity and I have to constantly replace the shims as they get worn. You may get lucky and get a good one, but the tolerances are all over the place. You really get what you pay for. Replacing mine is at my list of priorities, and not having to deal with play or shimming it and worrying about focus issues due to flange distances that are not in spec is worth the extra money IMHO. it sucks that it costs what it does, but it is worth every penny of the $400 they charge not to deal with that bulls**t everyday when it comes to an integral part of the tool we use to make our livings. Especially, if like me, your lens set is all nikon mount.
 
Oliver Rush said:
I did the same thing with mine... it still sucks. I shimmed it and took out the play. I don't have infinity and I have to constantly replace the shims as they get worn. You may get lucky and get a good one, but the tolerances are all over the place. You really get what you pay for. Replacing mine is at my list of priorities, and not having to deal with play or shimming it and worrying about focus issues due to flange distances that are not in spec is worth the extra money IMHO. it sucks that it costs what it does, but it is worth every penny of the $400 they charge not to deal with that bulls**t everyday when it comes to an integral part of the tool we use to make our livings. Especially, if like me, your lens set is all nikon mount.
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I 'm not sure I understand- I shimmed to bring it in focus.
I tweaked the spring tension to make the mounting smooth and firm. Two separate things. Shim does not affect play only the back focus.
 
I know this belongs on a different thread, but I have a brand new Tokina 16-50 F2.8 (Nikon) that im selling. $500.
PM me.
 
I have both the Tokina 11-16 and 16-50 in the EF mount and am anxiously awaiting the Birger to finish the setup. For now I am using both lenses @ f/2.8 or 4.0 and mounting via a Fotodiox adaptor with extremely sharp results - no shimming or adjustments necessary for infinity focus.

There are those who would debate the Nikon - EFS - Zeiss - Olympus question. My case is clear... I already own the Tokina lenses and I'm anxious to use both with the AF100 and my 7D.

Edit: I would imagine that I will use the iris control only with the Birger and keep the lens in the manual position at all times using my IndiFocus F/F control - I'm not a fan or user of auto-focus. Right now I'm impressed with the spot-on focus ability of both lenses.
 
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SNP & other Tokina users who are thinking of using the Birger mount. How's the push-pull clutch thing work for you?

I like the specs of Tokina glass a lot for video, & I like the way the push-pull clutch handles (I've only handled one) with a stills camera as an alternative to to FTM (Full-Time Manual).

But I'm wondering about the practicality of this system when using Push AF occasionally to check myself through the Birger mount. It seems like it would be an obtuse 3 step process: push ring to disengage MF, push "Push AF" button, pull ring back to engage MF. Is that right? Or am I thinking about it wrong?

I suppose with the Birger FF (when it arrives) you'd never have to have it in MF to begin with, on the other hand, you would never be able to use push AF once you were locked into a standard follow focus.

Is this correct or do I have something backwards?
 
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