The Panasonic G1HD | GH-1 Video Mode : A Real Video Mode

S'a good thing I happend to have ordered all those filters. Totally justified now that I saw that post.
 
this was interesting-

"Taking the edge off HD footage is not a bad thing. 35mm film, in the end, is often more like 720p, or maybe 900p, than 1080p, depending on the ISO, the film stock, and how much the exposure has been bumped-up in post. The problem with 720p cams is the visible hard pixels and the fact that the resolution fully resolved by 720p cameras was often far less than a full 720 lines - here we are still keeping all of our 1080p pixel count, just softening in much the way real-film grain would soften."
 
I don't have to worry about aliasing, my eyesight is so bad nothing is ever in focus anyway. That's the secret to my soft filmic look
 
Honestly I was thinking this same thing last night which prompted me to order a few more filters. I still know seasoned dps that swear by filters. Think about most of the films that have been shot on film. They're almost always shooting through nds and low contrast filters.

The good thing is that these are very cheap in the circular variety, for brand named quality even. It's been pretty fun shootng with nds ritually in this camera.

For those interested my current circular filter kit includes:

Hoya HMC NDs 2, 4, 8
Hoya HMC polarizer
Tiffen Soft fx 3
Hoya Duto
Tiffen Low Contrast 3
Tiffen Black Diffusion

All for a 77mm thread size which is the diameter for the largest lens I have bthis ensurees that I can just use adapter rings for smaller lenses and use the filters with all lenses.

I also have a 77mm threaded hood shade.

The concept of a mattebox on this thing just doesn't work for me. With this I still look, at most, like a photographer.
 
squig said:
what's a jig?

Kholi is just an aliasabator
Click to expand...

Did I say jig? I most certainly meant jib. Shouldn't ever try to write something coherent on a production week ;-)

Christopher Barry said:
GH1 users may need a few ND filters in their pocket for outdoor shooting, especially if using fast glass at say f1.4/wide open for a pronounced DoF shot.
Click to expand...

Yeah I was thinking that today as I was shooting mixed indoors and outdoors with a HVX. Click click...turn the ND on...turn the ND off...turn the ND on...all day long.
 
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Wow - Emanuel's link ROCKS! I just read through all of those threads. What a goldmine! But now I'm super freaked out about this whole aliasing thing ... especially in the 5DM2. :shocked:

Maybe I'll go with the GH1 after all ... and a diffusion filter. I can definitely live with 720p.

Kholi - adapter rings??? A one size fits all approach??? Never heard of such a thing.
 
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Finster said:
Wow - Emanuel's link ROCKS! I just read through all of those threads. What a goldmine! But now I'm super freaked out about this whole aliasing thing ... especially in the 5DM2. :shocked:

Maybe I'll go with the GH1 after all ... and a diffusion filter. I can definitely live with 720p.

Kholi - adapter rings??? A one size fits all approach??? Never heard of such a thing.
Click to expand...


Indeed. I can't very well say if there are any drawbacks to the method, I'll know once I start using smaller lenses.

However, it's been working out pretty well with the D90 and my NIkons. I suspect the same for my other glass.

No Mattebox needed and one set of filters to rule them all.
 
So here is the night footage - I just posted this in the footage thread but because I'm lazy copy and paste time...

Ok, so I have some more footage to share.

As per requested the entire 'PRIVATE' folder is available for everyone who needs the file structure to remain intact. No changes were made. No transcoding etc, etc...

Location: Sakae, Nagoya (Japan)
Time: dusk and shortly thereafter
Camera: GH1 in 720 (SH mode), ISO 1600, wide open (F4 on the stock lens), AWB, shutter 1/30 (although there is some debate as to whether this really means 1/30), Intelligent contrast: off, Auto focus on for some of the shots; off for others, Film type: Vibrant (camera's stock vibrant setting)...hmmmm think that's about it...
7 clips in all, different settings, available light only (some darker places others well lit)

ADDITION: I mentioned it before and I don't know if there would even be the slightest difference but I did shoot this stuff through a Kenko lens protector


I hope this adds to the ballooning information about this remarkable little cam

http://gh1.dark-stone.com/sam/PRIVATE.rar

Thanks again to Daniel L for the server space.

Cheers
 
cordvision said:
hey Kholi:
What contax lenses are you planing to use with the camera? Are there any fast contax lenses available wider than 25mm? 25mm on this camera isn't very wide at all. What adapter are u using? I wish the sensor was a little bit larger because primes that are fast and <25mm are pretty expensive...
Click to expand...

I've got Contax from 28 to 135 (should be getting a 180). I know there's a 25 and a 21, and I've heard rumor an 18 in contax zeiss form.

But for wides, I actually have an 11-16 tokina and a 17-35 Nikon. Color Matching will be the issue but that's not really a big deal to me.

So yeah, limited, but that's okay.
 
Anyone know how to get Sonic states private file into FCP. I've had no problem with canon avchd but fcp says this file structure is not recognized.
 
Kholi said:
Honestly I was thinking this same thing last night which prompted me to order a few more filters. I still know seasoned dps that swear by filters. Think about most of the films that have been shot on film. They're almost always shooting through nds and low contrast filters.

The good thing is that these are very cheap in the circular variety, for brand named quality even. It's been pretty fun shootng with nds ritually in this camera.

For those interested my current circular filter kit includes:

Hoya HMC NDs 2, 4, 8
Hoya HMC polarizer
Tiffen Soft fx 3
Hoya Duto
Tiffen Low Contrast 3
Tiffen Black Diffusion

All for a 77mm thread size which is the diameter for the largest lens I have bthis ensurees that I can just use adapter rings for smaller lenses and use the filters with all lenses.

I also have a 77mm threaded hood shade.

The concept of a mattebox on this thing just doesn't work for me. With this I still look, at most, like a photographer.
Click to expand...

You can use a bellows instead. I bought a 67mm round rubber hood off ebay and a step-up ring

Just spent the last 3 hours researching filters. Definitely a must have for this cam. Thx for posting that list. I found a good comparison of different diffusion filters here- http://www.flickr.com/photos/jmxphoto/2438003478/
Have you used the lindahl diffusion filters before? Apparently you lose a stop with them but they look really nice, is that the case with any of yours?

this caprock anti-moire filter sounds like the answer to the anti-aliasing http://www.caprockdev.com/antimoire.htm don't suppose you want to crash test it for us Kholi.

thx for the footage sonic and daniel
 
Kholi said:
I've got Contax from 28 to 135 (should be getting a 180). I know there's a 25 and a 21, and I've heard rumor an 18 in contax zeiss form.

But for wides, I actually have an 11-16 tokina and a 17-35 Nikon. Color Matching will be the issue but that's not really a big deal to me.

So yeah, limited, but that's okay.
Click to expand...

There are a 25mm f2.8 (not very good), a 18mm f4 (soft at the corners but I guess fine for the GH-1) and a 21mm f2.8 (expensive) available. Unfortunately there isn't any fast and wide contax lens available. I wish the tokina had a long focus throw and manual aperture control....
 
squig said:
You can use a bellows instead. I bought a 67mm round rubber hood off ebay and a step-up ring

Just spent the last 3 hours researching filters. Definitely a must have for this cam. Thx for posting that list. I found a good comparison of different diffusion filters here- http://www.flickr.com/photos/jmxphoto/2438003478/
Have you used the lindahl diffusion filters before? Apparently you lose a stop with them but they look really nice, is that the case with any of yours?

this caprock anti-moire filter sounds like the answer to the anti-aliasing http://www.caprockdev.com/antimoire.htm don't suppose you want to crash test it for us Kholi.

thx for the footage sonic and daniel
Click to expand...

No problem on posting that list.

I haven't tried lindahls. I was hesitant specifically because of the stop loss. Also, is there a bokeh rendition comparison? I found one (can't find the link though) and it showed the effects of soft filters on Bokeh.

Out of the lot i saw, the Hoya Duto and the Tiffen Soft FX had the most accurate as far a what the bare lens produces.

We'll see what happens when I do some more test shooting with the new filters, but for starters that's the kit I have.

At the very least you'll want a set of NDs and a Circular Polarizer of good quality.

Cordvision -- It's all good. I'm okay with taking the hit on aperture. Besides, I'll probably drill a hole in the Nikon mount and put a screw in it to control aperture. By the way, the hood is rubber. Pops in, pops out.
 
John Caballero said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BriCPiGdaU8

I dont know but this looks pretty good to my eyes. The guy won't shoot straight but the footage shows how the camera adjust to different exposures in and out the house. And I like the colors a lot. And the fact is that when you shoot a movie you plan your shots. Your angles, your background, etc., etc. If you know what the camera can and can't do you have to adjust accordingly. Thats just common filming sense. In addition each take shouldn't last more than seconds, so you have to really be careful about those seconds at a time and you have to make sure they are shot under the best conditions your camera would allow. When you are doing documentary work that might be a different story but you can also work within your camera limitations and make it look the best allowed by it.

These ones are interesting too. The guy can't shoot for crap but you can see the camera working pretty fine under the circumstances:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BurJR0hqsec&feature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKiDYxSi0Ws
Click to expand...


Yeah I saw those; there really nice looking. I looked at his night tests. 400 to 1600 stuff. It's amazing how well it performs at 1600. That's with the lens on 4.0 or 5.8 too. Cool...




.
 
Kholi said:
No problem on posting that list.

I haven't tried lindahls. I was hesitant specifically because of the stop loss. Also, is there a bokeh rendition comparison? I found one (can't find the link though) and it showed the effects of soft filters on Bokeh.

Out of the lot i saw, the Hoya Duto and the Tiffen Soft FX had the most accurate as far a what the bare lens produces.

We'll see what happens when I do some more test shooting with the new filters, but for starters that's the kit I have.

At the very least you'll want a set of NDs and a Circular Polarizer of good quality.

Cordvision -- It's all good. I'm okay with taking the hit on aperture. Besides, I'll probably drill a hole in the Nikon mount and put a screw in it to control aperture. By the way, the hood is rubber. Pops in, pops out.
Click to expand...

The lindhals are in that comparison link I posted, they're also know as harrison and harrison. The bokeh looks very creamy and smooth not blurry like some of the others.

yeah that hoya duto looks good but does it have the effect in the centre?

You have a pretty good collection there, surely one of them will minimize the aliasing.

I wasn't sold on this cam until I thought about filters. With the right filter combo and some grading a super 16 look shouldn't be too difficult.
 
Kholi said:
At the very least you'll want a set of NDs and a Circular Polarizer of good quality.
Click to expand...

What's the reason for using Circular Polarizer on a contrast detect camera? Circular Polarizers are normally only needed for the phase detect AF system of DSLRs. Am I missing something?
 
ryansheffer said:
Use two polarizing filters, one circular, one linear to create a variable ND.

http://digital-photography-school.com/create-your-own-variable-neutral-density-filter
Click to expand...

That waterfall picture illustrates nicely why it's usually *not* a good idea to use the double pol-filter trick as an ND filter, at least prepare yourself for stochastic colour reproduction. I'm glad I don't have to do colour matching on those two shots.

Btw, two linear pol-filters would work too, but the AF of a DSLR would be crippled.
 
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