The Official Manhattan LCD HD Monitor Thread

That's very good to know.
I was looking at the specs for the 7.1" .
I see that it uses a CFL panel instead of LED .
What's the difference between the 2?

Is there any way to join a mailing list to get notified on discounts and sales?
I missed the 0089A 100$ discount in a day, and really felt sorry for that...
 
That's very good to know.
I was looking at the specs for the 7.1" .
I see that it uses a CFL panel instead of LED .
What's the difference between the 2?

Is there any way to join a mailing list to get notified on discounts and sales?
I missed the 0089A 100$ discount in a day, and really felt sorry for that...

Good question.....Everybody is claiming that LED backlamps are the cat's meow but there always is another side to the story. Both LED and CFL provide white light for the LCD to generate the RGB primary colors, well this light has a property called a CRI or Color Rendering Index. The CRI is a measurement of the lights ability to reproduce the colors compared to a reference (usually high noon sun), in this case the colors are the LCD’s RGB primary channels. Comparing LED to CFL, the CFL lamp has a higher CRI than the LED lamp. So what does this mean? CRI has a direct impact on the LCD’s color space, a high CRI provides a wider color gamut. That’s why LCD’s with LED lamp typically has a NTSC color gamut of 40-50% and with a CFL lamp has a NTSC color gamut of 70-80%. However, you can’t get RoSH compliance with CFL, because the lamp contains mercury.

Keep your eyeballs posted on the forum, we might run another special soon.
 
That's great information, John.

But also, keep in mind that the LED panels typically draw far less current thus making them last longer. You get a lot more run time. CRI also varies depending on what panel is actually in the monitor and what kind of lens it's using to distribute the light. And then ther's 6 bit versus 8 bit....
 
Good question.....Everybody is claiming that LED backlamps are the cat's meow but there always is another side to the story. Both LED and CFL provide white light for the LCD to generate the RGB primary colors, well this light has a property called a CRI or Color Rendering Index. The CRI is a measurement of the lights ability to reproduce the colors compared to a reference (usually high noon sun), in this case the colors are the LCD’s RGB primary channels. Comparing LED to CFL, the CFL lamp has a higher CRI than the LED lamp. So what does this mean? CRI has a direct impact on the LCD’s color space, a high CRI provides a wider color gamut. That’s why LCD’s with LED lamp typically has a NTSC color gamut of 40-50% and with a CFL lamp has a NTSC color gamut of 70-80%. However, you can’t get RoSH compliance with CFL, because the lamp contains mercury.

Keep your eyeballs posted on the forum, we might run another special soon.

Good to know!
I'm waiting for the next special, 400$ was a good price tag.
 
Bit-depth / Color gamut

Bit-depth / Color gamut

I just found out that the HD089-series monitors (Manhattan LCD) and the DP1 (SmallHD) are both 6-bit monitors, meaning that the color gamut is fairly limited.

Does bit-depth matter all that much? I know it doesn't have any effect on focus, however it seems like posterization could get very distracting.
 
Almost all of the monitors available out there are 6 bit - unless you want to pay a whole bunch of money for one with low resolution.

6 bit monitors can be very nice. It depends a lot on what quality of controller they have behind them though. There are 8 bit LCD screens out there, but most of them have severe limitations on their own, especially for video, such as resolution, viewing angle, response time and brightness. To the best of my knowledge, right now, there is not a monitor (or raw LCD screen for that matter) that is a small format monitor, high resolution with an 8 bit color depth.

I wouldn't worry about it too much. You're going to be able to pull pretty accurate color any way you go. They are all adjustable.
 
We now offer a vDoubler-SPL adapter preinstalled option when ordering a monitor. No charge for installation (good untill July 31 '09), free "U" mounting bracket.
5 days left to order a preinstalled DV battery adapter at no charge for installation and a free mounting bracket. The adapter comes in 3 flavors - Panasonic HVX/ HMC150, Canon, Sony. Allows to power the monitor for about 3 hours, depending on the battery used.
 
Does anyones elses 89a get very hot on the top after 15min of use, to where its painfull to touch? Picture gets hazy at the top too.
 
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wow, I just read about 50 pages worth of threads regarding Manhattan LCDs and my mind is kinda numb now...

I'm thinking about buying either a HD089A or B version.
A few questions are still left...

I'm using a DVX100B (NTSC) with a 35mm adapter and I'm in dire need of a good focusing monitor. But i also have a DVX100A PAL-version, so this leads to my first question:

Will both monitors accept either NTSC and PAL input over SVHs for the A-model or composite for the B-model (since it has no S-VHS input (sadly).


The main reason im pondering the B-model is the 1:1 pixel option...
Would I as a SD user still benefit from the 1:1 pixel option for focussing? I know the image will be smaller when switched to 1:1 and pixels will be 1:1 but will this help to focus even more precisely in SD?


Also switching to 1:1 with a SD source, can this double as some kind of underscan functionality? Or does the A-model also show the full image anyway and there is no real need for an underscan option?


Finally I read about the A model now being equipped with a brighter display and for outdoor use I'd love to have as much brightness as possible (for the "budget" I have), so my question: If i order a B-model, will it also have the brighter display? How much more nits are we talking about?


Reading all this already convinced me I'm looking at good products with a giant bang for the buck. And very very good customer service. More power to you guys!

Thanks!
-Robert
 
Unfortunately, the 5D Mark II previews in 1080i and once the record button is pressed it previews in 480p. This has nothing to do with the monitor, it is a limitation with the hardware in the camera itself. Just so everyone knows, the Manhattan monitor isn't the problem...

I KNOW it.. and as I HOPE - Hudson will fix it soon :) ...

Here some info about it -

http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Magic_Lantern_Firmware_Wiki

and.. let me show you my setup with this monitor:

IMG_0042.jpg


IMG_0052.jpg


IMG_0050.jpg


I hope someone will find it interesting ...

Keep in mind, that I have two of this monitor for sale.. in Brooklyn store .. with sunhood, HDMI cable and Tekkeon battery.. :)

Serge
sergesmart@yahoo.com
 
Finally I read about the A model now being equipped with a brighter display and for outdoor use I'd love to have as much brightness as possible (for the "budget" I have), so my question: If i order a B-model, will it also have the brighter display? How much more nits are we talking about?


Reading all this already convinced me I'm looking at good products with a giant bang for the buck. And very very good customer service. More power to you guys!

Thanks!
-Robert

Well actually its cheaper upgrade to the brightview screen. The brightview will be available for the HD089A and HD089B, very limited supply, first come first serve. We sold out pretty quick last time.
Tonight the brightview will be available for both the HD089A and HD089B, %10 off special, Coupon code is "BVA10" or "BVB10"
respectively. Coupon is good until stock runs out. Also we have battery plates available now from Dolgin Camera Power. The plates are listed in the product options.
 
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To not psyche out all the potential Model A buyers I just pulled the trigger on a brightview B, thank you guys for that discount!
With tekkeon battery and sunhood.
An even brighter display, thats just cool.

Now the waiting begins.
I chose B not just because of the 1:1 pixel advantage I might have as I feed the monitor with SD, but also for the pic in pic option that I read about in the tech specs, that might come in handy for me as an Andromeda user, feeding the VGA from the capture laptop to the monitor as well, hopefully getting some info about whether its actually recording for example, or rgb clip that the Andromeda software provides, maybe that works, then i won't have to constantly check 2 monitors.

Also the Freeze frame might be usefull occasionally, maybe showing an actor how everything looks while he and camera are in position, just freeze the frame and show it around... Just an idea.

I hope I won't feel I miss the S-VHS in.

Looking forward to it!
Thanks again!
-Robert
 
It's the same except the 89B has a pixel for pixel focus function.

...which does not work via composite input when fed a regular 480i from the NTSC DVX I had to find out, couldn't fully test the other inputs. It does show the right frame size but other than that just shows noise. When I connect the composite from the DVX to the "Y" connector of the compoNENT input I get a very sharp pic of the same 480 size b&w of course. I do not have any component or hdmi source at hand at the moment, will test asap.

The B also has a good pic in pic feature with one limitation: one of these two pics HAS to be the HDMI input. Also had to find out that detail by buying it. I never read about a pic in pic on the A-model.

Apart from that the B has a different input configuration as you can see on the website (most notably no SVHS in and btw. no Antenna in).

Inputs are on the side on the B-model and it has mounting bushings on bottom and top whereas the A has the connectors on the upper side and has mounting bushings on all four sides.

On a side note, if you order the "brightview" flavor, it's glossy finish. I found out while unpacking my model B "brightview" on Friday. John confirmed this via email, it's not a mistake, it is like that.

It IS very bright imho, I can't compare yet, will have a friend send me his Model A non-brightview. But the glossy finish of the brightview display is a real PIA to me in bright daylight... The sunhood doesn't help with this, in dark areas of the video image all I see is my own reflection... Will have a look at those aftermarket matte films that can be applied to glossy displays. John told me about them. Already ordered some. Will try on my glossy Acer Laptop as soon as I get them and see if it maybe resolves my daylight mirror issue that i have with the "brightview". Maybe John and Vincent should sell those mattening films with the brightview or apply them right away. Just an idea. At least mention somewhere that the brightview is glossy.

Other than that glossy thing on the "brightview" and that input details mentioned above I can thoroughly recommend this monitor. Razor sharp image. Now I even see when I have a noise problem on location. Maybe this high detail will be cancelled out by applying a mattening film... I hope not... You can always order the regular non-brightview version.
 
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firehouse-media, can I get a link to that matte film that you mentioned? I just sent in my 89A to be upgraded to the brightview model and if that's true I'd probably want to look into those. When you get them please report back.

I would say that if you're using an XH-A1 there's very little reason to get the 89B since the A1's magnification function will carry through to the monitor which acts as a similar focus aid.
 
just feed ebay or google with the term "anti-glare".
From what I read 3M is highly recommended and should work wonders but is not that easy to get them installed bubble-free since they are a little stiff. There are others that should be easier to install since the material is said to be softer... This is all from what I read... It is said you should order at least two, so the 2nd one you install should be much better. They can be removed without any trace they say.

Don't mix it up with those "privacy filters" these are polarized filters that drastically limit the viewing angle (lol) so noone can co-read from the side on your Laptop.


- glossy display with mattening filter, wide-angle lcd with privacy filter... seems like man must re-invent wheel once in while.

*caveman hits stone with club*
UH!
 
There is one other key difference between the MST Controller on the 089A VS the Pixelworks controller. The on the 089A , you can invoke a 'hidden' menu for customizing the display, specifically the brightness and color controls - HSB. What's key is that the hidden menu navigation on the 089A is restricted to the top left hand corner of the screen. This is very helpful when you want to judge ARIB color bars on screen for color calibration. The 089B however, fills the middle of the screen with the interface ( and there is no other option) so you can't easily calibrate with color bars.
As an aside- I invoke color bars by feeding a still image of bars from my camera's SD card into the 089A display for calibration or I feed them from my Mac via a Matrox MX02.
 
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