tele converter for DVX200

S

soundman2000

New member
Would using a tete converter on my DVX200 afford me a more shallow DOF? I am trying for a more pronounced bokeh effect in interview situations.
 
Haven't had much luck with the tele converters for that use. Try controlling the lighting and f stop. Maybe even applying an ND filter to get it as open as you can and using as much zoom as you can get away with. The macro helps quite a bit as well as deliberate positioning from the subject if you can.
 
The tele converter is unlikely to help because it would mean having to position the camera really far away, to take advantage of it.

Generally your #1 most important task is to get the iris as wide-open as possible. Second, get the subject as far away from the background as you can. Third, put the camera as close as you can (understanding that when you get it TOO close, it'll start to show odd perspective, so you have to balance that act.) Fourth, zoom in as much as you can.
 
I find using the native 500 ISO and shutter at 48 I am wide open in a well lit interview situation. Better off ISO 1000 actually to use slightly less light.
I will try the macro setting.
 
Barry_Green said:
The tele converter is unlikely to help because it would mean having to position the camera really far away, to take advantage of it.

Generally your #1 most important task is to get the iris as wide-open as possible. Second, get the subject as far away from the background as you can. Third, put the camera as close as you can (understanding that when you get it TOO close, it'll start to show odd perspective, so you have to balance that act.) Fourth, zoom in as much as you can.
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+1 What Barry said.
 
Im not so clear on "get as close to subject as you can" and "zoom in as much as you can". One precludes the other. At six feet away I need to zoom in a little. A little less if I use i zoom. Should I go back 12 feet and zoom into interview subject? That would close my iris a bit.
 
Yes, the two are contradictory. And further, zooming in as much as you can contradicts rule 1, which is to keep the iris as open as possible. So, in effect, I listed them in the order that I think you should approach them -- first, get the iris as open as you possibly can. Second, separate the subject as far as you can. Then, third, whatever you can do to zoom in as much as possible and/or get the camera as close as possible, will help. However, there are practical limits to this, so these will be determined by the space you're shooting in, etc. And, for small objects or whatever, getting close is ideal, but for faces you don't want to go putting the camera six inches away from their face, as the perspective will be distorted at that close distance.
 
Everything Barry said. Depending on the situation, I'd most likely first compose the shot, then worry about the aperture. I figure once you get your framing, your angle and your zoom set, then you read your max aperture (most likely f/4.5) and go from there. If you're experienced, then you'll know you'll most likely have and f/4.5 anyway and just go with that as a base. For instance: let's figure you walk into every interview situation imagining a default setup of ISO 250, f/4.5 at 1/60 shutter, UHD/30p. So, you get your subject as far from the background as possible, the camera as far from the subject as needed, light the subject for f/4.5, light the background for f/8, ND the windows, mic the subject and shoot.
 
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