Tech Note: Archival Storage Will My Data Still Be Around?

BobDiaz

The Professor
It may seem like P2 creates a potential issue with archival storage, but this problem exists even with video tape. For those who assumed that your stacks of video tapes stored in a cabinet are safe for the next 50 years, you are sadly mistaken. All media, film, video tape, or computer data in any form, will have a potential problem with long term archiving. There is no single decision or agreement with all the experts in the field of storage as to the best long term solution. What I can tell you is the general summery of what the experts are saying.

First, when experts suggest the number of years a media would survive, the time frame given is generally conservative. This means that the media MAY survive longer than the time frame estimate. We also need to assume that you are using high grade media, because cheap media won't last as long.

Second, we always have to assume ideal storage conditions free from excessive light, heat (or cold), and extremes in humidity. If the media is magnetic in nature, it must be free from strong magnetic fields.

Third, it is important to have a second (or third) copy of your critical data. People who do not have second backup copies are begging for trouble. Keep in mind that if you are shooting video tape and you do not have a backup copy of that tape, you also run the risk of facing the same trouble.


THE TECHNICAL OBSOLESCE PROBLEM:

I have 8 Track Tapes, 8mm movies, Beta I Video Tapes, and 78 RPM records. What can I purchase NEW today that will play any of this media? Because our technology is changing so quickly, today's state of the art system will become yesterday's obsolete system.

Pick any system of today and wait 5, 10, 20, or 40 years and nothing will exist to play this media. Current wisdom suggests that a common standard media, like a DVD is more likely to have something around to play it, compared to a unique, limited production technology.

My personal suggestion is that if something is very important and must survive beyond 5 years, make sure you have a second and even third copy on DIFFERENT media. This increases your chances of finding something that can read the media in later years.

You may also want to have a running upgrade to your data. I have data (text files) that first existed on 5 1/4" floppies, was transferred to 3.5" floppies, to 100MB ZIP disks, to CDs, and is soon to be transferred to DVDs and maybe someday Blu-Ray.


TAPE:

Most estimates for tape are for a lifespan of 10 to 20 years. Keep in mind that this all depends on the quality of the tape and the lubricants used in the tape.

Just writing to a tape is no guarantee that the data was written correctly. You MUST perform a verify function after you write the data to the tape to be sure the data was written correctly.


HARD DRIVE STORAGE:

If you must have the storage on line at all times, something like a RAID-5 storage system is necessary. With RAID-5, even when a single drive fails, the data is still intact.

A RAID-5 system can NOT protect against a malicious virus or worse yet, a stupid user who deletes the wrong files. RAID-5 is good for the daily usage, but needs an additional offline system, like tape backup or removable hard drives, to protect your files.

For offline storage, removable hard drive storage, like the USB drives, is a possible solution. Clearly, if you drop a drive, you run the risk of loosing all its data. This is why you want to have a second drive with an exact same copy of the data.

As a side note, check this out:
http://www.iomega.com/direct/products/family.jsp;IomegaProdComSession=DUt9p4QjxLNb5v2g0NNaXpqysCvbBMk4zHpX6GU1H2LFCeNFOiB3!-412320371!-1817048987!7005!7002!-882072760!-1817048988!7005!7002?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=26891275&bmUID=1137978813828

The only issue with long term storage of hard drives is the bearings. There are concerns that the bearings may freeze up after 5 years of non-use. Many experts feel that the higher quality drives are less likely to freeze up in 5 years.

One solution would be once every 6 months or once every year to run the drives for a while. In fact running a Hard Drive Error Checking would catch a failure on a drive. At that point, you will want to make a copy from the second backup copy before the copy drive shows a problem too.

Another possible solution is to upgrade the data to a larger drive every 5 years. Currently the capacity of hard drives doubles every 13 months (1.9x per year). This means that for about the same price as your 5 year old drive, you will be able to obtain a drive 24 times larger. This means that 24 of your older 500GB external drives will fit nicely onto ONE 12TB Terabyte (12,000GB) external drive.

A third possible solution is to transfer the contents of the drive unto an optical disk. In 5 years, even a 50GB Blu-Ray Disk will seem small and you should be able to obtain an optical backup system that does not cost too much.


OPTICAL:

The majority of the experts say that optical offers the best long term storage; with estimates of 50 to 100 years. This year we will be able to purchase Blu-Ray Burners and blank media. If you don't like the price of $999 for the burner, just wait a few years and watch it drop.

Some cautions about using Optical for archival work:

FIRST, always use the highest grade media. The really cheap stuff has been known to not last and some cheap disks delaminate after about 1 year. The link below will help you with what are the highest grade DVDs:

http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm

SECOND, use the write once read many times DVDs (DVD-R or DVD+R). The DVD-RW and DVD-RAM will not hold the data as long as the first kind.

THIRD, do NOT use a solvent-based marker to write on the DVDs. The solvents may slowly work their way through the media and destroy the data on the disk. If you must mark the disk, use a NON-solvent-based marker and write only on the clear part in the center of the disk. Additional details can be found at:

http://www.itl.nist.gov/div895/carefordisc/disccare.html


THE VIRGIN COMPUTER CONCEPT:

Unfortunately there is a group of people out there who think it's funny to write malicious viruses that destroy your critical data. There is something you can do with your editing system and data that can stop the world's worst virus cold; never allow your editing system to have contact with the outside world.

Once the system is setup, your computer can provide data to other systems, but it can never be allowed to be connected to the internet or receive anything from other computers. This may pose a problem when you want to update the drivers or add new software, but in general most manufactures programs are virus free.


Bob Diaz
 
BobDiaz said:
All media, film, video tape, or computer data in any form, will have a potential problem with long term archiving. There is no single decision or agreement with all the experts in the field of storage as to the best long term solution.

Ask any seasoned cinematographer and they will tell you that right now film is still the ultimate long-term archival medium.
 
Without question, today's film seems to hold up the best to long term storage. My Mom's 8mm movies made around 1938 to 1950 can still be watched. The Black and White footage holds up the best, the color footage shows a strong change in the colors as the film ages.

Yet even film has a limited life, it may be 100 years or so, but I just don't know how long it will hold up.


Bob Diaz
 
Well I guess that depends on how you look at it. Alot of time, effort, money and care is put into preserving film. And then theres the whole restoration process that is required to address films "lossy" medium that starts to degrade the minute you pull it out of the camera. Film will one day suffer from obsolescence as does video, whereas one due to a slow changing format and another due to a fast changing one. Digital has the huge advantage of lossless duping which is the surest guarantee for long term.
 
BobDiaz said:
FIRST, always use the highest grade media. The really cheap stuff has been known to not last and some cheap disks delaminate after about 1 year. The link below will help you with what are the highest grade DVDs:

http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm

Getting high quality DVDs is a really tough task. Expensive doesn't means high-quality and inexpensive doesn't nessesarily means low-quality.

There are about ten "real" DVD-manufacturers. Most of them produce low-cost DVDs on outdated machines. You can't find out where your DVD comes from until you write them and check the Media-ID.

Now it gets funny: you can buy a box of 10 DVDs from one brand. When you check all 10 DVD Media-IDs, it can happen you see two different IDs with different writing-results. It happend with Verbatim 4x DVD+R, 5 of 10 DVDs were good Ricoh ones and the other 5 were horrible made in India.

SECOND, use the write once read many times DVDs (DVD-R or DVD+R). The DVD-RW and DVD-RAM will not hold the data as long as the first kind.

We bought an archive-solution for our CT last year and they are using a DVD-RAM jukebox. They told us DVD-RAM lasts longer than DVD-R and DVD+R.
 
Opcode said:
Well I guess that depends on how you look at it. Alot of time, effort, money and care is put into preserving film. And then theres the whole restoration process that is required to address films "lossy" medium that starts to degrade the minute you pull it out of the camera. Film will one day suffer from obsolescence as does video, whereas one due to a slow changing format and another due to a fast changing one. Digital has the huge advantage of lossless duping which is the surest guarantee for long term.

I doubt, despite what some people say, that film will ever become obsolete. It's a hard format, and is far more resilient than electronic capture methods. Besides, film technology is still evolving and electronic media is racing to catch up.

If you're worried about your negative holding up, print an internegative (which can be done with digital scanning now, removing or eliminating generation loss) and make sure your archived reels are checked into a film vault.
 
MarcusX said:
We bought an archive-solution for our CT last year and they are using a DVD-RAM jukebox. They told us DVD-RAM lasts longer than DVD-R and DVD+R.

This information comes from the National Institute of Standards and Technology. The link below is to a 50 page PDF file that covers their findings:

http://www.itl.nist.gov/div895/carefordisc/CDandDVDCareandHandlingGuide.pdf

See page 13 on the printed paper (page 21 on the PDF file).

Among the manufacturers that have done testing, there is consensus that, under recommended storage conditions, CD-R, DVD-R, and DVD+R discs should have a life expectancy of 100 to 200 years or more; CD-RW, DVD-RW, DVD+RW, and DVD-RAM discs should have a life expectancy of 25 years or more. Little information is available for CD-ROM and DVD-ROM discs (including audio and video), resulting in an increased level of uncertainty for their life expectancy. Expectations vary from 20 to 100 years for these discs.Few, if any, life expectancy reports for these discs have been published
by independent laboratories. An accelerated aging study at NIST estimated the life expectancy of one type of DVD-R for authoring
disc to be 30 years if stored at 25°C (77°F) and 50% relative humidity.
This testing for R discs is in the preliminary stages, and much more needs to be done.


There is A LOT of infromation to read in this paper, but it can be helpful in sorting out what we really know and myths about long term storage.

Bob Diaz
 
MarcusX said:
Getting high quality DVDs is a really tough task. Expensive doesn't means high-quality and inexpensive doesn't nessesarily means low-quality.

There are about ten "real" DVD-manufacturers. Most of them produce low-cost DVDs on outdated machines. You can't find out where your DVD comes from until you write them and check the Media-ID.

Now it gets funny: you can buy a box of 10 DVDs from one brand. When you check all 10 DVD Media-IDs, it can happen you see two different IDs with different writing-results. It happend with Verbatim 4x DVD+R, 5 of 10 DVDs were good Ricoh ones and the other 5 were horrible made in India..



You may want to check out the links below in the order from top to bottom:


http://www.best-dvd-burning-software-reviews.com/best-blank-dvd-media.asp


http://www.videohelp.com/dvdmedia


http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,1895,1854081,00.asp


http://www.itl.nist.gov/div895/gipwog/StabilityStudy.pdf

Media ID Quality Guide

The following list is in preference order. The best discs are near the top of the list. The discs at the bottom of the list are suitable only for a landfill. PVC is the best of all, LONGTEN is the worst of all, etc. Note: Some codes may be listed twice, done because a -R, -RW, +RW and +R by the same company may not be the same quality. The format is listed because of this.

1ST CLASS MEDIA
Almost flawless burns with 95-100% reliable results:
TAIYOYUDEN, YUDEN, TYG01, TYG02 = Taiyo Yuden = (-R)(+R) ... be aware of fakes
MXLRG01, MXLRG02 = Maxell = (-R)(-RW) ... be aware of fakes
MCC = Mitsubishi Chemicals = (-R)(-RW)(+R)(+RW)
TDKG02, TTG01 = TDK Corp = (-R)(-RW) ... be aware of fakes

2ND CLASS MEDIA
Decent discs, though not perfect, about 80-95% success rate:
PRODISC = Prodisc Media = (-R)(+R)
INFODISC = Infodisc Media = (+RW)
SONYD04 = Sony = (-R) ... be aware of fakes
RICOHJPN = Ritek or Ricoh = (+R)(+RW)
RITEK = Ritek = (+R)(-R)(-RW)(+RW)
OPTODISC = Optodisc = (-R)
FUJIFILM = Fuji = (-R)(+R)

3RD CLASS MEDIA
Quality can be very questionable, about 50-80% success rate:
LEADDATA, LD01, LD, LEDA = Lead Data = (-R)(-RW)
BEALL = Samsung BeAll = (-R)(+R)
MBI = Moser Beaur (India) = (-R)(+R)(+RW)
PRINCO, fake TDK = Princo = (-R)(-RW)
ONIDTECH = Unknown OEM = (-R)
MUST = Unknown OEM = (-R)
GSC001, GSC002 = Unknown OEM = (-R)(+R)

4TH CLASS MEDIA
Pathetic garbage media, landfill material, about 0-50% success rate:
RITEKG01, RITEKG02 = Ritek = (-R)
CMC, CMCMAG = CMC Magnetics = (+R)(-R)
PIODATA, PIO = LeadData, Ritek = (-R) ... once sold as "Pioneer" but that's false
Fake SONY, MXL = Fake Sony/Maxell from Hong Kong OEM (Infosmart?) = (-R)
OPTODISC = Optodisc = (+R)(+RW)
AN31, AN32, ANWELL, AN30 = Hong Kong OEM (Infosmart?) = (-R)
INFOSMART = Hong Kong OEM = (-R)(+R)
VANGUARD = Unknown OEM = (-R)
YIJHAN = Hong Kong OEM = (-R)
MATRIX = Hong Kong OEM = (-R)
VDSPMS = Unknown OEM = (-R)(+R)
LONGTEN = Hong Kong OEM = (-R)

ANYTHING ELSE = Unknown OEM or NEW
New medias to watch for: MXLRG03
 
Iain said:
I doubt, despite what some people say, that film will ever become obsolete. It's a hard format, and is far more resilient than electronic capture methods. Besides, film technology is still evolving and electronic media is racing to catch up.
"Electronic media" is "racing to catch up" becase it's the newer format, and film has a good 100 year history that supercedes it. Digital acquisition is evolving at a much more rapid rate than film is right now, however, because it has a lot more ground to make up. They are still improving film stocks today (latitude, mostly), but the differences are much more negligable than compared to the steps digital takes forward from year to year. There's no question in my mind that film will be obsoleted at some point; it's an analogue medium and it will be eclipsed like every other analogue medium has. There will no doubt be "film purists" in much the same way that there are still "vinyl purists" today who maintain that their analog recordings are still superior to today's digital technologies, but I don't doubt for a moment that film will begin to dissapear - and probably a lot sooner than you think.
 
I got to agree with you again Bob ;) As for lifetime of blu-ray, they said the samething for CD-R at the begining but turnout to last 5-6 year, with gold to have a unknown longer lifespan.

Engraved metalic CD/DVD are fine and will last 100year, but we can't do that at home.

Like you said, Hard disk bering could lockup, it the only thing I am personally 'worried' about Hard disk. But experiense told me it doesn't happen offen within 10year, and with 2 backup, there should be no problem. And Like you and I said, you just get a new bigger HD and copy everything to it before the 10 year mark.

Bob, do you know about QuickPar ? I find it a extreamly valuable tool
 
Haakon said:
"Electronic media" is "racing to catch up" becase it's the newer format, and film has a good 100 year history that supercedes it. Digital acquisition is evolving at a much more rapid rate than film is right now, however, because it has a lot more ground to make up. They are still improving film stocks today (latitude, mostly), but the differences are much more negligable than compared to the steps digital takes forward from year to year.

Wow, you pretty much just repeated what I already said, only with more words.

And you're right, the improvements in the photochemical process are negligible when compared to electronic capture. I'm guessing it's because it's really hard to improve on perfection :)
 
Lol... well you took out a few choice parts there, but I can let that be that. In my opinion, anyway, there is room in this town for both digital and film to exist together just fine (but I can't wait until digital ultimately becomes that "perfection" that is difficult to improve)! :thumbsup:
 
BobDiaz said:
. . . A third possible solution is to transfer the contents of the drive unto an optical disk. In 5 years, even a 50GB Blu-Ray Disk will seem small and you should be able to obtain an optical backup system that does not cost too much . . .
Bob Diaz

Ha, Bob! In five years I'm going to archieve all my stuff on one 100 terrabyte P2 card.
 
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