stable mpeg 1080 settings

oneted

Member
what finally can be a 1920 X 1080 MPEG settings and how do I best convert it to 24p in prores 422 so I can merge them with my other AVCHD prores in post. I tried the mpegstream with success as far as the 1080 size is concern but as far as the speed to 24p I get the stacatto effect due to missing frame...
 
Does anyone have an update for 1080 mjpeg settings for the current Ptools build? There are now three mjpeg size settings: 1280=>1920, and then separate height and width-- is the first field just to change the size to full resolution 1920X1080? I don't think anyone ever got full 1920X1080 working consisently, Pappas noted with his Class 10 card that he maxed out at 1440 X 1080.

I have not been able to get his 70+mbs settings to work with my Transcend Class 6 cards, but I'll be getting a Sandisk Class 10 card soon and I'm hoping that will make the difference. I recently did a shoot in a super high contast situation-- Shooting some of the installed screens at the World Expo... dark rooms, many bright LCD monitors and projections-- shooting both in FHD and MJPEG. The results were interesting. The FHD was much less noisy in low light, but I noticed that the contrast was much greater. When I color corrected the MJPEG footage to similar contrast levels, the noise disappeared and, even upres-ed to 1920 from 720, I think it surpassed the FHD in richness.... there's something about the MJPEG codec that is so rich... reminds me of Super 16mm a lot.

In answer to the above question, changing framerate is not simple when you have sync sound. If you don't have sync sound, you can just change the framerate of the clip-- slow it down from 30fps to 24fps (I use Cinematools 'conform' command for this on OSX). If you do have sync sound, there's a great description of the workflow here:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...3-peMF&usg=AFQjCNG_4gCu5_KfPxYIFuxq3lzJsYTn4g
 
Converting 30 -> 24 is a little more involved than just dropping 6 frames. The timing of 24 is different, so you basically have to interpolate the relative position of your frames and retime them, which isnt going to work as well because interpolation tech is still messy. The visual difference between 24 and 30 is unnnoticable (its most likely the shutter if it is), so its better to conform to the easier convert, 24 -> 30, which is what its going to be anyways when it displays on your monitor (29.97 actually).
 
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