Stabilizer under $20 and 45 minutes
- Thread starter mainstreetprod
- Start date
hoofandmouf
Well-known member
I gaffed a couple 2.5 lb weights to the bottom of a little bogen tripod.... it was ghetto but it worked....
I've used the glidecam and although its slighty better than this extreme DIY approach.... it aint THAT much better
basically, if you want ULTRA smooth floating footy.... become a steadicam op or hire one.... now, you might not need ULTRA smooth for your story, ghetto smooth might cut it.... if thats the case, just duct tape or gaff tape some weights to the bottom of a little piece of sh*t tripod
I'd skip the glidecam (faux steadicam)..... of course, if one was given to me (with the smooth shooter vest) I'd use it in a heart beat.... but I wouldnt drop hundreds of bucks on one cuz IMO its just not worth it
I've used the glidecam and although its slighty better than this extreme DIY approach.... it aint THAT much better
basically, if you want ULTRA smooth floating footy.... become a steadicam op or hire one.... now, you might not need ULTRA smooth for your story, ghetto smooth might cut it.... if thats the case, just duct tape or gaff tape some weights to the bottom of a little piece of sh*t tripod
I'd skip the glidecam (faux steadicam)..... of course, if one was given to me (with the smooth shooter vest) I'd use it in a heart beat.... but I wouldnt drop hundreds of bucks on one cuz IMO its just not worth it
PaPa
Major Contributor
"'ve used the glidecam and although its slighty better than this extreme DIY approach.... it aint THAT much better"
how can you even justify a statement like that. You obviously have no idea then how to correctly use a glidecam.
i started off trying to be none judgemental and just questioning your reasons, but now im starting to get frustrated at your remarks which are completely unjust seeing as you find the differenec between a home built and a real glidecam as you say, not that much better.
fact remains
you cant say the glidecam is a faux steadicam, i have used it plentiful, and i can achieve with it shots as smooth as a dolly.
This will NEVER be achieved with something like adding weights t oa tripod.
Stop thinking how you perceive it as quailty wise, and start thinking physics.
it does not make sense, you can practice and practice, but boy, try running next to someone at full speed.
on my glidecam, i acn zoom it to 75 and still retain a perfectly stable image... running.
i will gladly post proof of this to finally shut down this whole idea that a homebuilt stabilizer is as a good as a true stabilizer.
Do everyone here a favor, take your home built stabilizer, go outside, zoom your camera in, or no, keep yours zoomed out, start running down the street and record the footage.
ill do the same with the glidecam, but ill zoom mine in to 75, ill try to go even higher, and ill run as damn fast as i can with it in my hands, this will put this discussion to rest.
the 20$ hombuilt thing is a stabilizer, not a steadicam or a glidecam, it adds weight wihch adds to its inertia simply making it heavier so that your body absorbs more of the shock.
the point of a glidecam or steadicam is having a gimble which isolates the camera from any body movement or influence. No matter how hard you try this little device will never reach what a gildecam can produce. If all your ever going to be doing with a steadicam is toe to toe slow walking approaches with the camera, than yeah, i guess strapping some weights onto the bottom of a tripod is a great and quick solution, but please, clarify the difference between stating what the 20$ diy construction can do similar results to a glidecam,. IN certain conditions.
how can you even justify a statement like that. You obviously have no idea then how to correctly use a glidecam.
i started off trying to be none judgemental and just questioning your reasons, but now im starting to get frustrated at your remarks which are completely unjust seeing as you find the differenec between a home built and a real glidecam as you say, not that much better.
fact remains
you cant say the glidecam is a faux steadicam, i have used it plentiful, and i can achieve with it shots as smooth as a dolly.
This will NEVER be achieved with something like adding weights t oa tripod.
Stop thinking how you perceive it as quailty wise, and start thinking physics.
it does not make sense, you can practice and practice, but boy, try running next to someone at full speed.
on my glidecam, i acn zoom it to 75 and still retain a perfectly stable image... running.
i will gladly post proof of this to finally shut down this whole idea that a homebuilt stabilizer is as a good as a true stabilizer.
Do everyone here a favor, take your home built stabilizer, go outside, zoom your camera in, or no, keep yours zoomed out, start running down the street and record the footage.
ill do the same with the glidecam, but ill zoom mine in to 75, ill try to go even higher, and ill run as damn fast as i can with it in my hands, this will put this discussion to rest.
the 20$ hombuilt thing is a stabilizer, not a steadicam or a glidecam, it adds weight wihch adds to its inertia simply making it heavier so that your body absorbs more of the shock.
the point of a glidecam or steadicam is having a gimble which isolates the camera from any body movement or influence. No matter how hard you try this little device will never reach what a gildecam can produce. If all your ever going to be doing with a steadicam is toe to toe slow walking approaches with the camera, than yeah, i guess strapping some weights onto the bottom of a tripod is a great and quick solution, but please, clarify the difference between stating what the 20$ diy construction can do similar results to a glidecam,. IN certain conditions.
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I am definitely from the school of "whatever works for you is fine" but I have to agree with the need for a proper gimbal. For giggles I made up a rig like you have and it doesn't really compare to one that uses a gimbal. I doesn't cost that much more to add a proper gimbal and it is so very worth it. If memory serves I was able to put together a simple one from McMaster for around $35 that would fit on a rig similar to yours. Anyway, if you want help on upgrading the rig you have put together you can find it at www.homebuiltstabilizers.com or feel free to pm me. Here is pic of my completely DIY rig that I was able to put together with the tremendous help from the guys over there and it only cost me about $725 in parts and materials for everything (Note: I do have my own machine shop)
Bob
Bob
siniarch
Veteran
Hey Bob,
I sure would love to pick your brain as to how I can make me one of these little puppies. How come you spent $725? does that include the monitor and vest and all. How much do you think it would cost for all the metal for the arm & the sled. and the vest?
What machines did you use? I have drill press, miter saw grinding wheel but no shop. Just a garage.
Thanks
I sure would love to pick your brain as to how I can make me one of these little puppies. How come you spent $725? does that include the monitor and vest and all. How much do you think it would cost for all the metal for the arm & the sled. and the vest?
What machines did you use? I have drill press, miter saw grinding wheel but no shop. Just a garage.
Thanks
siniarch,
The $725 was for all the materials including the monitor, 2 battery packs, low mode bracket (not pictured), and the stand. Costs for all the bearings, metal and plastic used in the arm, sled and vest was about $510. The monitor at $160 was the most expensive part followed by the $85 bearing in the gimbal (ABEC7 rated and soooo worth it).
As for the tools that I used:
Small knee mill
Very small lathe (19" bed)
Metal cutoff/band saw
Heat gun for forming the vest
Soldering Iron for wiring in the sled and making the battery packs
Tap handle with appropriate taps
Various files
Dial calipers
Machinist's square
As I recommended before, everyone should really check out homebuiltstabilizers.com. There are a number of rigs there that are put togther with just a drill press that you can check out but do feel free to pm me if you have questions or are looking for sources for parts and materials. Eventually I will have all that information up on my webpage for everyone.
Bob
The $725 was for all the materials including the monitor, 2 battery packs, low mode bracket (not pictured), and the stand. Costs for all the bearings, metal and plastic used in the arm, sled and vest was about $510. The monitor at $160 was the most expensive part followed by the $85 bearing in the gimbal (ABEC7 rated and soooo worth it).
As for the tools that I used:
Small knee mill
Very small lathe (19" bed)
Metal cutoff/band saw
Heat gun for forming the vest
Soldering Iron for wiring in the sled and making the battery packs
Tap handle with appropriate taps
Various files
Dial calipers
Machinist's square
As I recommended before, everyone should really check out homebuiltstabilizers.com. There are a number of rigs there that are put togther with just a drill press that you can check out but do feel free to pm me if you have questions or are looking for sources for parts and materials. Eventually I will have all that information up on my webpage for everyone.
Bob
mikkowilson
Steadi-Guru
Ok, I'm goign to clear a few things up here.
I am a Certified Steadicam operator, and I've flown everythign from an XL1 on a tripod with a old battery onteh bottom for counterwieght, a home built rig I built with only hand tools and a power-drill for $60, and now I Own a Steadicam Archer and Steadicam Merlin. I've also been operating a Steaidcam Flyer for years and I've flown almost every rig presented at IBC or NAB in the past few years too.
First off, Bob, as I've said before on HBS, nice build
Secondly: PaPa is right.
That $14thing is a perfect example of how anyone can post any BS they want on the internet and somehoem pople will belive them. The system does add distributed weight to the camera, makign a little more resistant to movement, however there's no gimble, adn it's evne built out of Balance, so you can't evne hold it loosly as it TIRES to pull itself off level - as clearly demonstrated by the attrocious horizons in that earlier clip.
If you want a Steadicam shot, use a Steadicam ... or a knockoff like the Glidecam that as demonstrated, can do a prety damn good job too.
A Steadicam gives you MORE freedom then other camera mounts, because the camera is balanced and free to move, you can tilt, pan, roll it at seemingly impossibel angles if you want. This due to the same total isolation that allows the operator to move freely without disturbing the camera.
With Steadicam the camera just moves, smoothly with NO shake. Unlike that $14, and many other attrocious demo video online. Sorry but your video through the house and garage wasn't very godo either. I can do prety much the same job with a handheld camera.
Yes $4k is a lot of money. But it's still not enoguh for a quality fully featured Steadicam (or similar) system for DV cameras.
The cheapest way to get quality Steadicam? Hire an operator.
Dependign on the project, you can get a operator for anything over about 800/day with top notch gear and the experience required to use it.
If you want Steadicam shots, you will need a Steadicam.
- Mikko
I am a Certified Steadicam operator, and I've flown everythign from an XL1 on a tripod with a old battery onteh bottom for counterwieght, a home built rig I built with only hand tools and a power-drill for $60, and now I Own a Steadicam Archer and Steadicam Merlin. I've also been operating a Steaidcam Flyer for years and I've flown almost every rig presented at IBC or NAB in the past few years too.
First off, Bob, as I've said before on HBS, nice build
Secondly: PaPa is right.
That $14thing is a perfect example of how anyone can post any BS they want on the internet and somehoem pople will belive them. The system does add distributed weight to the camera, makign a little more resistant to movement, however there's no gimble, adn it's evne built out of Balance, so you can't evne hold it loosly as it TIRES to pull itself off level - as clearly demonstrated by the attrocious horizons in that earlier clip.
If you want a Steadicam shot, use a Steadicam ... or a knockoff like the Glidecam that as demonstrated, can do a prety damn good job too.
A Steadicam gives you MORE freedom then other camera mounts, because the camera is balanced and free to move, you can tilt, pan, roll it at seemingly impossibel angles if you want. This due to the same total isolation that allows the operator to move freely without disturbing the camera.
With Steadicam the camera just moves, smoothly with NO shake. Unlike that $14, and many other attrocious demo video online. Sorry but your video through the house and garage wasn't very godo either. I can do prety much the same job with a handheld camera.
Yes $4k is a lot of money. But it's still not enoguh for a quality fully featured Steadicam (or similar) system for DV cameras.
The cheapest way to get quality Steadicam? Hire an operator.
Dependign on the project, you can get a operator for anything over about 800/day with top notch gear and the experience required to use it.
If you want Steadicam shots, you will need a Steadicam.
- Mikko
pmpworks
Well-known member
:thumbup: you the man Mikko!:dankk2:
Bob, thanks for the info, do you have any pics of your adjusters you'd like to share? If not that's fine, I just can't figure out the best way to make em.
Oh yea..Mikko, your link to your old rig on HBS is down, thought you might want to know.
Bob, thanks for the info, do you have any pics of your adjusters you'd like to share? If not that's fine, I just can't figure out the best way to make em.
Oh yea..Mikko, your link to your old rig on HBS is down, thought you might want to know.
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Here is drawing of roughly what I did for the tension/angle adjustment. Being able to control both the angle and tension lets you set the ride of the rig very well. I was able to get away with smaller diameter threaded rod by using tool steel that I hardened. If you are going to use off the shelf rod plan on going with a larger diameter.
Bob
Bob
charles
Well-known member
A very inspirational steadicam Set up Bob. Realy nice. A true reverse approach to the steadicam 3A design. I like it. May I ask where is the second cable going over the pully, attached to?
Are you thinking of anodizing your arm? It's worth it considering the beautiful adjustable design of it.
I like it. May I ask where is the second cable going over the pully, attached to?Are you thinking of anodizing your arm? It's worth it considering the beautiful adjustable design of it.
pmpworks
Well-known member
Bob, that is a great design, I don't think I've ever seen anything like that. I may very well be set on making one like yours. It looks like your cables might be attached to the adjusters by an eyelet? or loop? held by a screw? My sled weighs apx. 17lbs do you recommend a certain spring?
Thanks again, great drawing.
Patrick:dankk2:
Thanks again, great drawing.
Patrick:dankk2:
Hiya Charles. Nice to see you away from the HBS board The cables both attach to the blocks that are threaded for adjustment. I made up a compression clamp arrangement in the blocks to hold things securely(it can hold at least 850lbs). As for the design being unique it truly isn't. I stole/borrowed it not from a camera arm but from a lift assist arm used in the auto and paper industries circa 1930. They used something like this to move some pretty big parts precisely. As for anodizing, I plan on doing that shortly once I get more acid for my tanks. I'll post up on HBS as soon as I get that done.
Bob
The cables both attach to the blocks that are threaded for adjustment. I made up a compression clamp arrangement in the blocks to hold things securely(it can hold at least 850lbs). As for the design being unique it truly isn't. I stole/borrowed it not from a camera arm but from a lift assist arm used in the auto and paper industries circa 1930. They used something like this to move some pretty big parts precisely. As for anodizing, I plan on doing that shortly once I get more acid for my tanks. I'll post up on HBS as soon as I get that done.Bob
charles
Well-known member
Bob Hill said:Hiya Charles. Nice to see you away from the HBS board
Bob
I do check these forums sometimes.
Yeah I think I know of the device you are referring to. Steadicam uses a similiar design but like I said it's pretty much reverse mode. The priciple is the same. I still love it but like I said the vertical style adjustment is still patented.Hey Patrik, of course I have. There are so many on HBS it's hard to keep track
Please forgive me.
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