Peter Berry
Well-known member
Going back a few posts I definitely agree with Peter. Also just to be clear, even though I shot all of this on primes, I don't recommend it in the slightest! Any lens that will frame well near the net will be poor out in the neutral zone and beyond obviously. We do multi camera shoots for important state championships, like with a 50 behind the net, 85 in the wing and 135 at half, but dealing with the 180 rule when cutting angles together in a coherent sequence is always difficult. On the 85 I can never run it past 2.8, so the aperture is not an advantage for on the field. The Metabones speed booster is a life saver when shooting in dim gyms and rinks though. You can stop down to F4ish and still have the light needed for slightly higher shutter speed slow mo.
In terms of positioning, yes and no. Set up shots are pretty much impossible, and I am equally happy a shot from either side. It's nice to have a mix of players facing you broadside while shooting, but over the shoulder type shots are pretty neat to. I tend to rotate through lower shot percentage locations such as behind a goal and safer ones like corners and midfield to get a nice mix. There's some players that I know really well, and there's nothing better than seeing a play before it happens and shooting it perfectly!
The real reason I joined these boards was to get a feel on what other people are shooting with for lower budget "cinematic" sports rigs and just see how others shoot stuff like this. I'm getting an image stabilized 70-200 2.8 this spring and am trying to figure out the best way to balance pulling focus, zooming and tripod movement. I'm thinking about rigging up a motorcycle throttle grip on my tripod to actuate a focus whip for zoom control, but might have to bite the bullet on a motorized focus pull.
I hear you about the primes! I've got some Nikkors from the dark ages - 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 135/3.5, as well as the Panny 25/1.4 and 12-35/2.8. I've been thinking about a used Canon 70-200/4.0 IS, as I got the Metabones Smart-T adapter for a recent birding trip to India with the 400/5.6 on my GH4, with GH3/Panny 100-300 on the side. The Met. .61X adapter would pull it down to a very useful ~ 42-120mm/2.5 range at a manageable size and cost, with full AF-S and IS function.
But the other thing I find very useful with primes shooting 4K is using the 2X dig. zoom - a central 1080HD crop - which is surprisingly clean, and as it's a 1:1 pixel ratio rather than the binned/line-skipped full sensor 1080p, seeming a bit sharper and more free of moire. It's upsampled back to 4K dimensions on the fly. Basically the same idea as using the ETC 2.4X mag. function in native 1080p - likewise a central 1080 crop. I have both of these options on the touch screen Fn tab, switching in seconds. Your effective aperture is not reduced as it would be with the 2-stop loss of a 2X TC, for a pretty nice free lunch...
Pete
