F3: Sony 18-105 or Sigma 24-105

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chuckjones

New member
Hi guys,

which lens would you prefer on the Sony F3?

Sony is of course e mount, but how would one control the aperture on the F3, any lens adapter options?

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthrea...-Fujinon-19-90mm-T2-9-Photo-lens-alternatives

- Sony E PZ 18-105mm f/4 G OSS Lens $600: LINK This is pretty much perfect, just what I'm looking for.
Only two problems are the lack of a manual iris ring and Sony cameras only!
Click to expand...


Would image stabilisation work, I presume it won't? What about the zoom button on the F3?

Thanks


Cheers,

Wim
 
If you want a motorized and iris controlled zoom for the F3 I'm afraid the Sony SCLZ18x140 (18-140) might be your cheapest option.

$9,999 new, or I've seen them for around $5000-$6000 used. The lens ramps when zoomed but with the F3 you can turn on TLCS to auto-adjust your exposure slightly so the ramping can be minimized. Not many know about that feature, or are too afraid to use it.

http://pro.sony.com/bbsc/ssr/product-SCLZ18X140/
 
A cheaper and more effective solution would be to buy a used EX3 rather than that lens, as much as I'd like to try it, it's just way too expensive. Re-sale value is really bad too. It would be good if someone could develop a Sony E-FZ mount for the F3, although I've read it impossible.
 
Chuck,

If money is tight I say still go for the 18-105 f4 from Sony on your F3. (so long as it defaults to f4 without power, or a proper body, etc..)

I shoot some all day long events that are run & gun and have used a Canon 24-105 f4 without any complaints. Indoors it can sometimes be an issue if you don't want to crank your ISO over 1600 or have lots of lighting, but in those situations I just switch it out with a fixed prime. Outdoors f4 everyday all day I have no issues with.
 
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Why try to make the F3 into a auto style camcorder? It's a big sensor so zooms are big and mainly manual, like they should be. I agree with the above advice, if you need camcorder performance, buy one instead.
 
@Chuck

Thanks, good advice.

@Shoots56

I never said I wanted "camcorder performance". I'd use it for documentary work, to work faster, as a variable prime option, so not to zoom in and out.
And I don't mind big or manual zooms. I prefer them, but most of these are very expensive, hence the question of whether to use cheap alternative option A or B.
 
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Ive said a bunch of times that I like my nikkor 28-85 (paired with a 18 prime)

Personally I think old MF stills lenses are far superior to modern AF stills lenses for video use

I you dont like focussing the nikkor way (understandable) Id be looking at a contax 18 and a 35-70 or 28-80 zoom from contax, angie, or canon FD?

S
 
Shoots56 said:
Why try to make the F3 into a auto style camcorder? It's a big sensor so zooms are big and mainly manual, like they should be. I agree with the above advice, if you need camcorder performance, buy one instead.
Click to expand...

+1

Though I'd probably suggest a blackmagic pocket camera paired with a B4 or S16mm zoom. You get a constant aperture, and all the zoom range and focus control you need - all tied to an image that can cut in VERY easily with SLOG from the F3.
 
chuckjones said:
I never said I wanted "camcorder performance". I'd use it for documentary work, to work faster, as a variable prime option, so not to zoom in and out.

And I don't mind big or manual zooms. I prefer them, but most of these are very expensive, hence the question of whether to use cheap alternative option A or B.
Click to expand...


I don't quite understand all the comments about camcorder performance.

I have a client who hires my production company on a regular basis to go out and do multi-camera coverage of live events on the super 35mm format. I assemble the crew and we go out and shoot on DSLR's or bigger camera bodies like C100, F3, etc.. and our choice lens is the Canon 24-105mm f4 without a lot of complaints. We usually also carry a faster wide-zoom just incase.

For live action you don't always have time to fiddle with a lot of lens swapping, so a zoom with a lot of reach is very ideal. I find f4 is an extremely fair compromise. Not to mention the fact that usually you want a tighter aperture for razor sharp images anyway.


Chuck as I see it, you have several good and cheap options some of which you've already explored. Here's a few more:

1.) A Nikon zoom (24-120 f4 or something similar) that will make you happy except if you are not use to focusing "backwards" compared to 99% of all other lenses out there. You can get one of these used for around $880 from Adorama.

For this Nikon, or any Nikon mount based lens you will need an Optitek or MTF Nikon to F3 adapter if you want to control the iris even on auto iris Nikon lenses. The MTF is not that great for this, I own one and the iris ring on the MTF can move on its own if you aren't in the habit of using the locking screw. Sometimes the locking screw un-threads itself from tiny knob and stops working all together. I also found that newer lenses are sometimes loose on the MTF, but not my old Nikon primes. This year I switched to the Optitek Nikon adapter which has an awesome twist-locking mechanism, plus has a iris adjustment with markings. It is the best one on the market in my opinion.

2.) The Canon 24-105mm f4 which I use for a lot of live coverage sells for around $1000. If shooting on a DSLR you get the extra control of the IRIS, if you use one on a Sony F3/F5/f55 you might want to consider either an Optitek adapter which can control the iris ($1800-$2100) or you can get a cheap rear-lens element mechanical based iris control which is probably not the most ideal, but it does work and it's damn cheap.

The only thing I have against Sony SLR lenses for video is the resale value. The only people using them seem to be photographers, and ask me how many photographers shooting with Sony I know.
 
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I think you basically have to weigh everything up and choose what works for you - maybe borrow some lenses or go to some physical stores.

For example ive had 17-50Tokina, 18-85Nikkor and ended up with the 35-70 and 28-85, one can construct an argument for the use of many combinations of lenses

The only lenses that actually do what you want are $40k

S
 
I think the Tokina's are fabulous lenses. I have Tokina's 11-50 f2.8, 16-50 f2.8, and 28-80 2.8 and don't know where I'd be without them!

I tend to use these for more planned gigs, dramatic work, or where I might want lower f-stop for more bokeh, and especially for changing the focal length much faster/easier when camera is already on jib arm and sand-bagged down and not going anywhere fast in a hurry.

cheers and good luck with whatever you choose! be sure to report back!
 
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I said I had a Tokina (16-50), the throw was way too short and it flared at 2.8 so was in effect only usable at 4 (so no speed gain compared to a slower better lens) and IMO I shoot less at 16 and more at 30-80 which is why im better with a 35-70 zoom and a wide prime 18 as a way to cover the 18-80 zone (which I think make 90% of shots)

Ive used the 11-16 and it is nice for the wide and but a bit heavy compared to my 18prime..

Each user different choices.

S
 
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