FS7: So what IS the OMB ENG solution..

You shoot with that Billingham bag on your shoulder !!! .. how do you move it when its between your legs.. give it a kick.. :).. each to their own but there is no way in hell I could shoot like that.. no caps on your lenses.. one hand.. yikes.. all power to you sir .. I can see why you want a zoom.. :).. just get the Sigma or Fujinon.. then at least you only have 2 lenses and they are pretty light weight it seems..
 
I don't often move while rolling. Shot move shot.

The bag is ok on the left shoulder - arguably balancing the pressure on the body.

And yes I'm done with it hence wanting to upgrade My mid zoom :)
 
It's sealed but the booster gives me great confidence to protect the sensor even further.

I tried but really can't find any really useful user reviews of the Sony 18-110? For a one lens to do-it-all it looks very promising but are there anyone owning and using it?
 
broughtonfilm said:
You took his words so literally. Do you think he is really talking about lens choices and physical distance? That's what you got out of it?
Click to expand...

My last sentence - "Also I dont think he meant only that you should not use bad looking long lenses." - was probably a bit unclear (not native english speaker). Anyway I tried to hint that the qoute was probably not that concerned with lenses. In the context of a forum thread on lenses though^^
 
morgan_moore said:
I will even swap while rolling to hold audio - here the booster is a good thing because you are not exposing the sensor to the elements.

Billomgham is crucial - rucksacks are for losers
Click to expand...

A bag is too slow, bro!

I use a lens belt like the ones pictured below. Quick draw. Camera doesn't have to come off my shoulder for lens swaps.

Kinesis.jpg

LoadedBelt.jpg

Now, this is only for certain types of shooting.
 
morgan_moore said:
I also want to dump my miller arrow 25 head for something lighter - that is for a differen thread :)
I have a mangrotty head but find it too putrid to use.
Click to expand...

Just in case it's of interest, I've got a Schatler DV-12 head that I just swapped out of rotation due to picking up a Miller Arrow 25 myself. It's a decent lot lighter than the Miller, but with very similar load-bearing capabilities and a 100mm bowl. It needs the pan-lock bolt replacing, which I was told would cost £500, and I'm willing to sell it for a good price. Let me know if you have any interest.

Cheers,

jason
 
JPNola said:
A bag is too slow, bro!

I use a lens belt like the ones pictured below.
Now, this is only for certain types of shooting.
Click to expand...

Yep my bag is very similar in function to this - basically three pouches together - just a little less swat team/suicide bomber - which IMO helps.

And I can put it down or hand it off when there is a sucker close by.

But belt kit can be better distributed for load .. so swings and roundabouts :)

S
 
morgan_moore said:
Yjust a little less swat team/suicide bomber - which IMO helps.
Click to expand...


Funny you say that because I was recently wearing it on a shoot where there was Secret Service. And I was dressed in all black, along with the rest of the video crew.


A question for anyone here: If I buy a CP.2 I should probably go with the PL mount rather than the e-Mount or EF mount, right? ( I realize that they are interchangeable, but it isn't cheap or a quick and simple process. ). Although, EF would be the most widely usable. EF works on fs7. C300, F5, F55, A7s. Whereas PL won't work on a native EF mount camera.

The idea of getting rid of the need for an adapter, and thus getting rid of any potential for adapter-caused flare, is appealing. So maybe e-mount? I don't plan on renting out any lenses that I own. Them's mah babies.
 
Ben Scott said:
EF for CP2s so you can use them on a speedbooster too for e-mount or MFT mount.
Click to expand...

With a speed booster an F/1.5 CP.2 super-speed becomes a....?

Should I bother getting the super-speeds?

Given a choice, would you rather a Zeiss CP.2 super speed or an Otus for interviews? I like having an iris ring on the lens. ( And I refuse to do the reverse focus direction. ). But I'd suffer with electronic iris if the Otus is sufficiently more remarkable than a CP.2. I recall reading a DP ( Hurlbut, maybe? ) saying he didn't like the Otus for video. Lacks character in his opinion and is too sharp.
 
Otus all day every day. It's not really even a competition. The question is more Otus or Master Prime? Definitely worth putting with an electronic iris for. Sharp yes, but plenty of character.

Hurlbut will charge you $50 to join his inner circle to find out what he reeaallly thinks.
 
I went the with Otus Nikon mount. The metabones adapters have a smooth steeples aperture control and I simply use a reversible Follow Focus. Absolutely gorgeous no breathing smooth long focus throws
 
icarusfilm said:
I went the with Otus Nikon mount. The metabones adapters have a smooth steeples aperture control and I simply use a reversible Follow Focus. Absolutely gorgeous no breathing smooth long focus throws
Click to expand...

I'll consider going that route. I do hate the thought of spending $5k on a prime lens and it being electronic iris only. Not being able to seamlessly ride exposure and finding myself stuck between iris steps- neither one where I want to be on the iris.

If Nikon would just stop being so stubborn with their damn focus direction that is now, imo, outdated.

I'm still considering that Sony 85mm GM APO. It is relatively inexpensive and is reported to have both great character and resolution that nears, but doesn't match, the Otus. Not certain that I want a really sharp lens. It would be odd to purchase a lens like the Otus and then have to use softening filters to make it more kind on interview subjects.
 
As this is an FS7 thread I would step back before purchasing sharp glass and test.

Various purple edge problems I have only seen on the FS7 (and F5) when using CP2 or Canon Cineglass but not with my sacratched dirty nikons

Personal theory is one wants glass that resolves 3.8k not 4k or more which can induce edge problems.

S
 
morgan_moore said:
Personal theory is one wants glass that resolves 3.8k not 4k or more which can induce edge problems.

S
Click to expand...

Your old Nikons most likely outresolve FS7's sensor too so that is not the reason. This does not work this way, not that simple. That's because 4K is not the resolving power of the camera. Bayer pattern, necessity to oversample etc. etc. Not to mention that in case of an OLPF filter it sets a certain threshold so in theory it does not matter if lenses resolve more because OLPF regulates it (unfortunately not uniformly for each channel). Not to mention that lenses don't resolve uniformly across the entire image circle. http://www.cookeoptics.com/techdoc/...enough for that 4k high definition camera.pdf
 
Update.

I think I will buy..

8-64 canon or sony 18-110

leaning towards the sony at the moment because..

no known gotchas
IS can help
AF might help
remote zoom might help

the other lens (and doubler) is maybe too much of a mission and cost draw.

there is a HD35 2/3 adapter going for £3g here in the uk though.. might be worth a thought.

S
 
It's also the mechanical performance that sets the Otus apart from others you are not going to get that with the g lenses. I personally like sharp and contrasty lenses I know I'm supposed to get all excited about vintage flary low contrast lenses with imperfections but I don't. Kubrick didn't look for old 1940s glass he went to NASA and grabbed their Zeiss made glass. I also never had a complaint about an image being too clear and too sharp.


JPNola said:
I'll consider going that route. I do hate the thought of spending $5k on a prime lens and it being electronic iris only. Not being able to seamlessly ride exposure and finding myself stuck between iris steps- neither one where I want to be on the iris.

If Nikon would just stop being so stubborn with their damn focus direction that is now, imo, outdated.

I'm still considering that Sony 85mm GM APO. It is relatively inexpensive and is reported to have both great character and resolution that nears, but doesn't match, the Otus. Not certain that I want a really sharp lens. It would be odd to purchase a lens like the Otus and then have to use softening filters to make it more kind on interview subjects.
Click to expand...
 
OMG - Morgan Moore goes for a Sony fly by wire lens - the heavens may open up and pour down tears!

I'll probably go the same route though waiting to look at one Friday and compare to a Canon 17-120 . Real glass vs electronic wizardry - should be interesting.
 
icarusfilm said:
I also never had a complaint about an image being too clear and too sharp.
Click to expand...

It is a technical thing. If the lens outresolves a poorly desinged OPLF then you get edge issues. If the lens underresolves the OPLF then you dont.

The purple edges on facial hair that I have seen could certainly draw a complaint from a tricky client.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top