Smallhd DP6 settings to match FS100 LCD

Kraut69

Kraut69

Well-known member
Smallhd provided these settings to better match the DP6 to the FS-100's LCD.

Not perfect, but a better match than the settings the DP6 shipped with.

Neither monitor is color accurate, of course, but it is good to have them in agreement.


Contrast = 47
Brightness = 65
Hue = 44
Saturation = 50
Sharpness = 15
RGain = 110
GGain = 110
BGain = 120
ROffset = 126
GOffset = 127
BOffset = 127

These settings may have been provided to smallhd by a member posting in the F3 forum.
 
I've been using these same settings... Do you find the DP6 to be a little more yellow than the FS100? Which do you think is more accurate?
 
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Yes, the DP6 white isn't as white as the FS100 currently. Not sure yet which is most accurate.
 
The DP6 is a HUGE improvement over the DP1x. I had both, now I just have the DP6. I am going to try these settings. I'd rather have them both consistent.
 
morgan_moore said:
I don't see why one would want to match the DP to the onboard.. surely you want it to match the recording?
Click to expand...


That would be nice, but I don't have anything that qualifies as a color accurate monitor, my television doesn't.

Also smallhd will like to hear of any improvements anyone has to match the FS-100.
 
DP6 is more yellow as a result of the LCD technology utilized. If you leave the monitor on for 30+ minutes, the yellow tinge starts to slowly go away.
 
Personally, I'd never calibrate a monitor to match the camera's LCD because typically the on camera LCD is bad (as is the case with the FS100). At the very least you could calibrate some color bars so that at least your brightness and contrast are correct
 
I just prefer all my monitors to be close to each other. I use the LCD on the FS100 quite a bit, when hand held or floating on the blackbird, as I want the weight to be as light as possible. Because of this, I really have to work within the constraints of what I can set the LCD that is built in to. Now, I've not tried to adjust it at all, but, if I am using a different setup with the smallHD, I don't want them to be wildly different. Then I have to think completely different in interpreting what results I am going to get on the footage. Given I use the built in LCD more, then that becomes the one I emulate.

I had this problem when shooting with the 7D. I knew EXACTLY how the footage would be different in post. But, when I used my DP1x, up on a crane, I had a hard time getting the exposure right because I was so used to compensating for the LCD on the 7D. Now, the argument could be made that if the DP1x is more accurate it should be easier to expose right, yet, that was not the case. I wasn't a fan of the DP1x LCD performance and it would show things WAY more constrasted than they really were. (The DP6 and DP4 are so much better to me).

Biggest problem is LCDs just behave differently and so when you are pushed to extremes on shots between the different panels, it can be tough to know what the results will be).
 
I think one of the DP6 training videos on smallhd.com show it having a color bar option, but that seems to have disappeared with a firmware update (??), seems to have been replaced with the newest focus assist + option (???)
 
It doesn't need to be 100% accurate... turn on false color, should never be gauging your exposure based off your eye anyways. Should always be using a light meter, false color, zebras, histogram, anything but your eye.

Aside from that, you shouldn't need a monitor to gauge white balance. And chances are you've already tested your picture profiles and seen what they do to colors on a corrected monitor at home.

The monitor is there for frame reference and making sure your stuff is in focus (false color as well if that's what you're using it for).

Granted having a color correct monitor is nice, but unless you're willing to throw down tons of cash on a broadcast color correct field monitor.... you'll have to make do =p
 
Yeh, I am going to be using false color on the DP6 more, it doesn't have zebras. . . I have a shoulder rig about done, and I won't be able to see the zebras full time on the camera's LCD.
 
Kraut69 said:
Yeh, I am going to be using false color on the DP6 more, it doesn't have zebras. . . I have a shoulder rig about done, and I won't be able to see the zebras full time on the camera's LCD.
Click to expand...

The firmware update will allow the zebras on external I believe, so I cannot wait for that to get here. I tried shooting in false color, but I use the two buttons for focus assist and zoom. I told smallHD we need more buttons!!! :)
 
There are lots of buttons on the remote. I am hoping that is something practical to use while handling the camera.

Focus Assist is not one of the go-to buttons on the remote, although it is accessible with the Menu remote button. They need to have more than one remote optional, with different sets of buttons, so we have a choice.
 
Do you think those settings will be good for the DP4 as well? I have both monitors and I have been trying to match them as closely as possible.
 
Rick,

Only $29, dedicated buttons for false color, peaking, pixel-to-pixel, blue only, crosshaird, aspect guide, display, backlight, input, back, standay plus a center 4 way button to access everything in the MENU.

Was thinking of the DP4 also, for shoulder mount purposes, is that the appeal to you?

As for the color bar issue, Tiffany at smallhd says she has some color bar shots that can help as well for anyone that needs/wants them

Galen
 
Still need to determine mounting with it for me (remote).

DP4 is just lighter and better than the built in display, I used one as a demo from them and was amazed at how good the panel looked. I use the DP6 now for that, but I just want a lighter option for when I am handheld.

When I do use shoulder mount, definitely would use it. (That's what I used it for when I demoed it).

I am also curious to try the DP4 on the FS100 on the Blackbird with just one 7D battery on it.
 
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