GH3 Simplifying GH3 for a Second Shooter

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Ianscreations

Well-known member
I have to shoot a dance recital soon. I am using 2 GH3s. I will operate one camera near the stage for close-ups while a second camera (B cam) will remain wide in the back of the audorium. It will not require much zooming or movement, but I will need to maintain a proper exposure and focus.
The only operator I have to run this B cam in the back is not familiar with the GH3 and I don't want to trust them to manually control much during the shoot.

What settings do you recommend I set the camera to? I was thinking putting it on a shutter priorty mode and setting the focus myself (the depth of the dancers should not change much). I would then let the camera control exposure automatically.

What have your experiences been in terms of giving some a camera with more simplified settings to shoot with for B roll?
 
shutter priority set to 1/50th sec. manual aperture lens(so the camera cant adjust it automatically). auto iso. set your aperture wide enough so the iso isnt going up too high at its maximum.
 
richg101 said:
shutter priority set to 1/50th sec. manual aperture lens(so the camera cant adjust it automatically). auto iso. set your aperture wide enough so the iso isnt going up too high at its maximum.
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I'm not sure I have a manual aperature lens. I have the 12-35, 35-100 and the 25mm. I will probably have to give the Bcam the 35-100 2.8 lens since it is in the back.
 
You have to simplify the GH3 for the first shooter before anything else (joking). You don't want variation of shutter speed while there is artificial light (that cause flickering, or whatever is the proper english term : lines across the screen)... in fact you don't want variation SS ever if you can do otherwise. You have to find the proper speed (depending if you're in a 50Hz or 60Hz area (PAL or NTSC) and stuck to it. Exposure as to be controlled via aperture and iso.
 
astraban said:
You have to simplify the GH3 for the first shooter before anything else (joking). You don't want variation of shutter speed while there is artificial light (that cause flickering, or whatever is the proper english term : lines across the screen)... in fact you don't want variation SS ever if you can do otherwise. You have to find the proper speed (depending if you're in a 50Hz or 60Hz area (PAL or NTSC) and stuck to it. Exposure as to be controlled via aperture and iso.
Click to expand...

Good one! I'm not afraid to admit I am a newbie when it comes to DSLR video. That being said, I do understand the need to maintain a constant SS. The only thing I'm not sure of is why I should maintain a manual exposure? The light color and intensity will vary per dance, so I was thinking I should rely on an auto setting for exposure.
 
I have heard more "tales of woe" from folks who relied on a second shooter who did not understand the equipment they were using.

If you have to, try shutter priority in Creative Movie mode and let the aperture and ISO "float" as they have to. The GH3 has a high ISO limit of 6400 in Creative Movie mode and that doesn't look bad, especially if it's the difference between getting enough exposure or not.

Outside night tests I've run at ISO 2500 and 6400 have resulted in fairly solid blacks in shadow areas.
 
I'm sure auto-ISO (with a Top limit to not go to noisy land : depending of the sensitivity of your sensor) will do a good job. But I have to admit that I never used auto-anything on my cam (GH2) so a GH3 owner... or the manual will tell you better how to fine tune that function. Auto-aperture on your m43 lense may cause some harsh jump between f-stops change.
 
Bruce Foreman said:
I have heard more "tales of woe" from folks who relied on a second shooter who did not understand the equipment they were using.

If you have to, try shutter priority in Creative Movie mode and let the aperture and ISO "float" as they have to. The GH3 has a high ISO limit of 6400 in Creative Movie mode and that doesn't look bad, especially if it's the difference between getting enough exposure or not.

Outside night tests I've run at ISO 2500 and 6400 have resulted in fairly solid blacks in shadow areas.
Click to expand...

Bruce, do you mean select the "S" Recording Mode so shutter is the priorty? If I seelct the Creative Video Mode (M), I thought that means that I need to manually set and control SS and Exposure?
By the way, other reply to my post regarding menu settings to achive the style of auto/manual focus I wanted was very helpful. I was able to get the camera exactly how I wanted it with your help!
 
astraban said:
You have to simplify the GH3 for the first shooter before anything else (joking). You don't want variation of shutter speed while there is artificial light (that cause flickering, or whatever is the proper english term : lines across the screen)... in fact you don't want variation SS ever if you can do otherwise. You have to find the proper speed (depending if you're in a 50Hz or 60Hz area (PAL or NTSC) and stuck to it. Exposure as to be controlled via aperture and iso.
Click to expand...

Absolutely 100% correct!
 
Ianscreations said:
Bruce, do you mean select the "S" Recording Mode so shutter is the priorty? If I seelct the Creative Video Mode (M), I thought that means that I need to manually set and control SS and Exposure?
Click to expand...

Nobody writes these manuals so they tell you how to use the dang gear!

With the dial on top of the GH2 set for the movie camera icon with "M", press the "Menu/Set" button, you'll get the "CREATIVE MOVIE" menu. Get out of that one with the left arrow button and move down to the "MOTION PICTURE" menu, on the first screen most of the items are greyed out but two are not. Move down to "EXPOSURE MODE" and use the right arrow button to get to your options.

You'll see P, A, S, M. If you select "S" you'll have selected SHUTTER PRIORITY but in the mode selected with the movie camera icon on the topside dial ONLY.

This is what gets confusing. You have the PASM choices for still photography ONLY selectable with the topside dial. What you've just selected in "motion picture" mode is for "motion picture" with that topside dial set on the movie camera icon ONLY.

Most of us will still recommend you set that EXPOSURE MODE menu item for "M" for the highest degree of control.

Ianscreations said:
By the way, other reply to my post regarding menu settings to achive the style of auto/manual focus I wanted was very helpful. I was able to get the camera exactly how I wanted it with your help!
Click to expand...

I hope you find the first part of this post just as helpful. However you decide YOU want to set it, it does help to understand what goes on.

One more thing: You can start motion picture recording from any mode by pressing the red button, but in any of the still photo modes you will get full auto exposure ONLY that way. If you have the topside dial set at the movie camera icon, you can start the recording with the red button, or use the shutter release (half press for autofocus, then complete the press to start the recording) to start and stop.

The GH2 is an amazing camera!
 
Bruce Foreman said:
Nobody writes these manuals so they tell you how to use the dang gear!

With the dial on top of the GH2 set for the movie camera icon with "M", press the "Menu/Set" button, you'll get the "CREATIVE MOVIE" menu. Get out of that one with the left arrow button and move down to the "MOTION PICTURE" menu, on the first screen most of the items are greyed out but two are not. Move down to "EXPOSURE MODE" and use the right arrow button to get to your options.

You'll see P, A, S, M. If you select "S" you'll have selected SHUTTER PRIORITY but in the mode selected with the movie camera icon on the topside dial ONLY.

This is what gets confusing. You have the PASM choices for still photography ONLY selectable with the topside dial. What you've just selected in "motion picture" mode is for "motion picture" with that topside dial set on the movie camera icon ONLY.

Most of us will still recommend you set that EXPOSURE MODE menu item for "M" for the highest degree of control.



I hope you find the first part of this post just as helpful. However you decide YOU want to set it, it does help to understand what goes on.

One more thing: You can start motion picture recording from any mode by pressing the red button, but in any of the still photo modes you will get full auto exposure ONLY that way. If you have the topside dial set at the movie camera icon, you can start the recording with the red button, or use the shutter release (half press for autofocus, then complete the press to start the recording) to start and stop.

The GH2 is an amazing camera!
Click to expand...

Thanks again Bruce! You are the man :)
I have the GH3, but I imagine all of this is the same, if not very similar. I will try tonight and let you know.
 
If it was me, I would set it to manual and not even touch it.
The performance will be properly lit. So expose for a properly lit face under a spotlight and leave it at that.
 
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