moonlitnite
Well-known member
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I'm still going to work on mastering the whole GlideCam balancing act. It just drives me nuts that it un-balances so easily.
Cheers!
Rehi,
Sorry you're having rebalancing problems. Assuming you don't have a damaged unit or a procedural error*, hopefully soon you'll master how quick it is to rebalance the GlideCam.
Below are my notes that might be of help. FYI - I find I can usually get by simply rotating the washers back and forth a bit to readjust the balance.
Good Luck, Michael
* Procedural errors include things like loose equipment, taking gear on/off before/after balancing (lens cap, tape, etc), changing camera weight distribution after calibration (flipping out on-camera monitor, etc), twisting counterweight pole and not first realigning it visually to see if glidecam returns to balance, etc...
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1. If you don't already own one, buy a music stand or similar rig to hold the GC during setup. I can't imagine anyone ever adjusted a GC without a rig - if they have, never agree to wrist-wrestle against them! The GC handle is actually a hollow pipe so it can be supported by a vertical rod. I use a portable stand that collapses all the way down for portability at the event: http://www.elevation-music.com/hebsezsefoal.html
2. Okay, once the GC is assembled, sit it on the music stand and make sure everything is stable. You should be able to rotate the GC horizontally 90 degrees.
3. In the 90 degree horizontal position, rotate the GC post clockwise and counterclockwise. Is the unit balanced so that it doesn't always come to rest in the same position? If it does, move the appropriate thumb screws on the plate so when you twist the pipe the camera and GC do not favor one position.
4. Now the famous drop test. With the GC post at 90 degrees, drop the bottom end (gravitational plumb) with the weights and count the seconds until the bottom moves into the horizontal position. The ideal time should be around 2.5 - 3.0 seconds. If not, move the GC back to 90 degrees horizontal, loosen the telescoping clamp and slide the counterweight assembly in (to lengthen time) or out (to shorten time). If you have to add additional washers, you may need to repeat prior steps.
5a. Next set the GC in its normal position. Adjust the counterweights so the GC post is exactly vertical. If you're in a building, you can use a doorframe or other vertical benchmark as a reference. Rotate the music stand so the camera is pointed to the reference point. Frame the post so you can see the doorframe behind it and adjust the counterweights left or right so the post lines up perfectly with the doorframe. Now rotate the music stand 90 degrees so the camera is pointing at right angles to the doorframe. Adjust the counterweights left or right (towards front or back of camera assembly) so the GC post is again perfectly parallel to the doorframe.
5b. If you're in the field without a reference, go to "plan b". Buy yourself two inexpensive small 2 inch leveling bubbles found in most hardware stores. Sit them on the base platform that holds the counterweights at 90 degree angles (front-back and left-right). Actually, this method is much easier than the above method - I recommend getting the leveling bubbles with contact adhesive and mounting them to the base platform.
6. Finally, take the GC off the music stand and give it the left-right and forward-backward sway test. Initially, a fast movement sway test is okay just to get a feel of the balance. Tweak the counterweights as necessary. If the GC has too much of a pendulum sway, loosen the telescoping clamp and raise or lower the counterweight assembly (but not more than 2.5 - 3.0 seconds per step 4). Next due the GC sway test slowly left-right and forward-backward. Try to get a "read" on what's causing the sway by watching the latency when it makes a slight wobble due to the inertia of your movement.