shoot on ice- Gamma?
- Thread starter sonic250
- Start date
Admiral Ackbar
Member
Try the "High" gamma setting. IIRC, it compresses the brighter parts of the image and leaves the darker parts untouched.
andythefilmer
Veteran
Lower the master pedestal to about 5 or 6. Use normal gamma for minimal noise...
jambredz
Veteran
Andy the lowered master ped with crush the blacks even more...which was the prob in the first place no?
I'd suggest shooting with cinelike D for the most dynamic range. and leaving master ped at 0. in post u can crush contrast to your liking.
Set your Zebras to 80% and judge exposure from that...that will protect from blowouts and u can also brighten it up a bit in post if needs be.
I'd suggest shooting with cinelike D for the most dynamic range. and leaving master ped at 0. in post u can crush contrast to your liking.
Set your Zebras to 80% and judge exposure from that...that will protect from blowouts and u can also brighten it up a bit in post if needs be.
gco
Veteran
paraphrasing from Barry's book:
"LOW gamma compresses some of the brightest parts of the picture while preserving the darker parts.....allows you to iris up a little.....lets you get more detail in the darker sections of the picture"
"HIGH gamma brings up the brightness level of the darker parts......maintaining same level in brighter parts...raises dark levels producing flatter contrast.....enables you to iris down a little and still preserve detail in the shadow and extends range of highlights....dark areas are extended to make them appear brighter"
I have been curious about these two for shooting outdoors on overcast days. I have not yet experimented with them so can't speak from experience. Sounds like either setting will bring up your darker regions but LOW sounds like my first choice for shooting on ice since it will be hard not to blow out background when exposing for your subjects and LOW compresses the brighter parts of the picture. I would also consider using 80% zebra setting to expose for your subject with the subject filling the complete frame then 100% for the action shots to watch for blowout in the background or highlights. That way you are in the ballpark first and can tweak it on the fly at 100% when things get busy.
"LOW gamma compresses some of the brightest parts of the picture while preserving the darker parts.....allows you to iris up a little.....lets you get more detail in the darker sections of the picture"
"HIGH gamma brings up the brightness level of the darker parts......maintaining same level in brighter parts...raises dark levels producing flatter contrast.....enables you to iris down a little and still preserve detail in the shadow and extends range of highlights....dark areas are extended to make them appear brighter"
I have been curious about these two for shooting outdoors on overcast days. I have not yet experimented with them so can't speak from experience. Sounds like either setting will bring up your darker regions but LOW sounds like my first choice for shooting on ice since it will be hard not to blow out background when exposing for your subjects and LOW compresses the brighter parts of the picture. I would also consider using 80% zebra setting to expose for your subject with the subject filling the complete frame then 100% for the action shots to watch for blowout in the background or highlights. That way you are in the ballpark first and can tweak it on the fly at 100% when things get busy.
gco
Veteran
yeah, thats the trick all right. You know something is going to blow out, just what and where? I am continually trying to hone my abilities with that little balancing act.
According to the book, use 80% on faces and 100% on everything else to see what highlights or background portions are clipping. When checking faces at 80% you want to see just a blip or two.. Typically you will see that at the tip of the nose, cheekbone or forehead--specular reflections. By the way, another used book just popped up in the Marketplace.
According to the book, use 80% on faces and 100% on everything else to see what highlights or background portions are clipping. When checking faces at 80% you want to see just a blip or two.. Typically you will see that at the tip of the nose, cheekbone or forehead--specular reflections. By the way, another used book just popped up in the Marketplace.