Shoot checklist?

Soliton

Soliton

Well-known member
In another post the subject of a pre-shoot checklist came up. A lot of good suggestions were made and from those I have tried to make one of my own for the 100(not A), and I've tried to put things a logical order.
This may be overkill but probably not for those new to the DVX, like me, especially if overdue for a caffeine infusion.
Do we need anything more for the lucky 'A' model owners?
Any input is certainly appreciated .... Thanks!

DVX_Shoot_Checklist:
secure mount
correct filtering/lensing
power on...
camera Battery
tape remaining
scene file
white Balance
exposure
GAIN
focus
level head for pan shot [Thanks 10s, good one!]
framing
audio level
readjust the framing
recheck focus
record color bars each scene/lighting change (may omit depending on situation)

Using external mic(s)...
connections
switches
levels
sound test footage each scene change (may omit depending on situation)
 
Re: Shoot checklist?

How about adding "hold color chart in set lighting for several seconds while recording." It makes the post process so much easier.
 
Re: Shoot checklist?

On "Secure Mount" one needs to , "Level the head" for any sort of pan. I'm amazed at how many pans end up with a horizontal tilt when I don't believe that was the photographers intention. A good level adjust can take some time so a simple 90 degree pan can be made correctly.
 
Re: Shoot checklist?

10s,
Thanks! Added.

Shaw,
I don't know the diff from "hold color chart in set lighting for several seconds while recording." and " record color bars each scene/lighting change". Should I add yours or modify mine? Thanks!

Sol
 
Re: Shoot checklist?

**bump**

Just need to run this by the group again. Don't want to miss something important, but do want the most logical order.
I may have added 10s' "level head for pan" too far down the list??

Thanks.
 
Re: Shoot checklist?

It is a good list to live by. But recording colour bars for every setting is not needed. First off with digital formats they are even less dire. But if you have the bars at the front of your tape you shall be fine. It will be more than enough for you when digitizing, since you start at the head of the tape anyway.
But as for a colour chart, that is a much better idea. They are great to shoot for any drastic lighting change. I true help in colour correcting in regards to the colour you want to capture or finish with.
 
Re: Shoot checklist?

I use a Macbeth colour chart, used as a standard in both film and video. YOu should be able to pick one up at any pro like photo store. I am not sure about the net. But you can buy anything online. I have had mine for a while , but I believe I paid around 45 CDN. Be sure to not put your fingertips on the actual colours, as the grease on our fingers stain.
 
Re: Shoot checklist?

Prairieboy, thanks for clearing up that 'color bars vs. color chart' thing for me. Good info on the link too.
 
Re: Shoot checklist?

Prarieboy, have you adjusted your camera so it captures the colors realistically to your eye. For this you'd need an accurate monitor. I've been using the DV Rack lately which should make my laptop LCD screen accurate in what ever viewing environment. My camera colors are off using the GretagMcbeth color chart to what I see in person. So I've adjusted my chroma level to +4, Chroma phase to -6 and master pedistal to -4... on F5 24P with cine gamma, what an interesting mess! Now my colorchart & Laptop are close, the camera's LCD is way off.

What method do you use for this?
 
Re: Shoot checklist?

I use a sony PVM properly balanced to check colour when I have the time. I like to shoot my chart so that when I post something I can get true colour references and play with it from there. I too like the chroma higher, but I tend to keep the phase a bit closer to 0.
I know when the monitor is calibrated correctly I can use that for colour judgement. Unfortunately I do not always have that luxury. I have a smaller monitor that I know is slightly warm that I can judge by. The camera's LCD is the last choice. Lcd's of that type are certainly not the best to judge colour, nor contrast. One thing that I find handy is quicly flipping the camera to bars as a sight reference for me, knowing how they should look, the switching the camera back and judging any colour shift. But that is a very quick, and unscientific thing to do.
 
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