Sharpest Nikons?

all this reading about people needing a fast lens.
f2.8 isn't fast enough?...and on a ZOOM :huh:
you filming the next memoirs of a geisha or just wanting to abuse your focus puller (if existent) that he/she is no good at their job hehehe i sense mega headaches at 100mm+ f2.8 with movement.
although, i see your requirements if shooting doco/low natural lighting, but even then, an out of focus bright image is better than a pushed sharper image? suppose it depends.
 
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Hey guys I called Nikon about the draw and the 80-200mm has a half turn draw... I will have to call a retailer about about the 24-70mm
 
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I now heard from someone else that the draw is only 1/3 of a turn...

I am deeply concerned with the draw and feel of the focus ring. If anyone has any information on this I would sincerely appreciate it if they'd share it.

I heard that the focus ring on at least the wider 28-70 is one of those like the one on the HVX that turns forever... this is really scary... I was hoping for a mechanical ring with hard-stops...

please share any and all info on this
 
USLatinContent said:
I now heard from someone else that the draw is only 1/3 of a turn...

I am deeply concerned with the draw and feel of the focus ring. If anyone has any information on this I would sincerely appreciate it if they'd share it.

I heard that the focus ring on at least the wider 28-70 is one of those like the one on the HVX that turns forever... this is really scary... I was hoping for a mechanical ring with hard-stops...

please share any and all info on this
Click to expand...

I tested a 70-200 and the sharpness was astounding. The focus ring is not. Slight play and short draw. I'd love to find a tinkerer camera tech / repair shop that could fix this. Any leads out there? Please, don't suggest ARRI.
 
Slight play? are you serious? Could you explain a bit? is it similar to the play on a follow focus? how short is the draw... I am getting conflicting information on this
 
USLatinContent said:
Slight play? are you serious? Could you explain a bit? is it similar to the play on a follow focus? how short is the draw... I am getting conflicting information on this
Click to expand...

There's a reason why no one uses these with adaptors and FF. The play is a slight jiggle perhaps a millimeter or more before the ring engages. Too much for real work. The draw is about 1/3 to 1/2 a turn.

Like I said, the only hope for these lenses is a third party focus ring conversion. Zacuto can you hear me?
 
Tim are they really that touch to use?
I know you have some serious equipment as you should for how you earn your living,. I understand that you will spend to avoid possible problems that might bite you on set. But just how tough are these to use for an indie on a budget that needs to make some things work?
I was considering getting both of these which would be a budget equal to a decent set of primes. However I want to make the zooms work for me as I am all about using zooms for the obvious benefits...

I know that it would be a very bad thing to have to work with, but would an experienced 1AC be able to adjust for this play before pulling in the opposite direction or is this play not constant or otherwise unpredictable?
 
An experienced AC will ***** and moan more than me. Good AC's keep on turning gear back in and swap it out until everything works as it should. The one thing that gets under their skin is any noticeable play in the focus system. I don't know of any decent AC who would find these zooms acceptable for focus pulling. No serious AC want their work to look second rate.

Play on your focus system is a pain in the ass, especially if you like to shoot with short Depth of Field and intricate focus cues. Without any dampening, when you change directions (ie. Someone walks into CU, turns to over the shoulder and then turns back to CU) especially if the actor is impulsive, you'll notice the jerkiness of the focus. It takes you out of the movie when you notice the technique in this case.

If your thinking of dropping that kind of cash and need that level of sharpness, consider a set of ZF's (add a 58mm Voigtlander to that) and perhaps save on the FFocus (SG or RRock instead of Chrosz).
I'll probably be selling my entire Nikon Set (save the 135 and 24mm) in the next week or so. I've drawn the conclusion that the speed of primes, build and relatively long focus draw of the ZF's are the next best thing to PL's.

You'll be happy to have the speed and ability to pull focus almost like a pro.
 
Yea... I guess from your post that this play IS too much... My DP 1AC'ed a ton, what sucks is that it is also him who tries to convince me to stick to my guns and get zooms like I want... but I am starting to think that by "get zooms" he also means "spend five times as much on glass"...

ZF's? I am sorry... is that Nikons?
 
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