Scene Setting to match HD quality

vocare

Well-known member
Setting it to progressive and some recommend scene setting help to give the best quality for dvx.
Do let me know if you got any scene setting to match dvx to hmc setting.
 
I would turn down the sharpness as far as u can go first off. When HD started getting into more households I started noticing my SD footage looked like garbage in HD monitors, then I began softening my image completely losing as much artificial sharpening as I could. I find it translates much better in HD that way, plus less jaggies.
 
Turn down "DETAIL" as low as it will go and use "THIN" vertical detail. Another thing that you have to consider is that most TVs are not calibrated (and have probably never had their picture settings adjusted) so there will probably already be edge enhancement turned on for the display. One application of edge enhancement is bad enough so there's no need to do it in-camera.

Also, shooting in 24p or 30p may be better than 60i, but it depends on what kind of look you want.
 
Turn down "DETAIL" as low as it will go and use "THIN" vertical detail. Another thing that you have to consider is that most TVs are not calibrated (and have probably never had their picture settings adjusted) so there will probably already be edge enhancement turned on for the display. One application of edge enhancement is bad enough so there's no need to do it in-camera.

Also, shooting in 24p or 30p may be better than 60i, but it depends on what kind of look you want.

Doing so may make it hard to check your focus, as it will always look out of focus with the detail turned down to -7. It happened to me before.
 
  • Vertical Detail Frequency: Thin
  • Vertical Detail: 0
  • Detail: -3
  • Detail Coring: 0
  • Skin Detail: Off
  • Chroma: 0
  • Phase: +3
  • Gamma: Cine Gamma
  • Matrix: Cine Look
  • Master Pedestal: -3 to -6
  • 16:9 LETTERBOX
  • Shutter Speed 1/25
  • 25p
 
I would recommend not using Letterbox mode and instead cropping the 4:3 frame to 16:9 in editing. This gives you the option to not use the exact centre of the 4:3 frame so you can make further framing adjustments. (You may want to put masks on your camera's external lcd screen while filming though.)

I highly recommend using a "detail" setting of -7. If you are absolutely sure that you need edge enhancement in the video it would be better to apply it in post-production so you at least have the option of keeping the video unchanged. Edge-enhancement will make the scaled HD version look worse. If you need to use "detail" to focus, have two scene files, one for focusing, and one for recording (assuming that you don't need to rack focus during a shot).
 
I highly recommend using a "detail" setting of -7. If you are absolutely sure that you need edge enhancement in the video it would be better to apply it in post-production so you at least have the option of keeping the video unchanged. Edge-enhancement will make the scaled HD version look worse. If you need to use "detail" to focus, have two scene files, one for focusing, and one for recording (assuming that you don't need to rack focus during a shot).

remember, as i just discovered, turning up sharpness turns up noise as well,
when u turn the sharpness up on the camera, it does it before it's compressed.

turning it up after will increase noise and somtimes macroblocks because that that point you are turning up the sharpness on a highly compressed mpeg file. so IF you know you want x amount of sharpness, I think as usual it's better to do it first and not in post
 
remember, as i just discovered, turning up sharpness turns up noise as well,
when u turn the sharpness up on the camera, it does it before it's compressed.

turning it up after will increase noise and somtimes macroblocks because that that point you are turning up the sharpness on a highly compressed mpeg file. so IF you know you want x amount of sharpness, I think as usual it's better to do it first and not in post

This is true, if you are completely sure that you need sharpness/edge-enhancement it is better to do it in-camera. The problem is that if you do it in-camera you can't change your mind in post. (I never use edge-enhancement though, so I would always go with -7.)
 
Detail: -4
VDetail: -2
Coring: -3
Colour Sat: -4
Master Ped: -7
Gamma: Cine-V
Colour: Cine
Thin


Then you have to go through and do a proper conversion to HD. I'm starting to feel like a bit of a linkwhore for posting this video every time someone asks about delivering decent HD from the DVX, but here's an example of my work with this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KALcMw-vGFw
 
Detail: -4
VDetail: -2
Coring: -3
Colour Sat: -4
Master Ped: -7
Gamma: Cine-V
Colour: Cine
Thin


Then you have to go through and do a proper conversion to HD. I'm starting to feel like a bit of a linkwhore for posting this video every time someone asks about delivering decent HD from the DVX, but here's an example of my work with this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KALcMw-vGFw

great looking footage. what do you use for the conversion to HD?
 
  • Vertical Detail Frequency: Thin
  • Vertical Detail: 0
  • Detail: -3
  • Detail Coring: 0
  • Skin Detail: Off
  • Chroma: 0
  • Phase: +3
  • Gamma: Cine Gamma
  • Matrix: Cine Look
  • Master Pedestal: -3 to -6
  • 16:9 LETTERBOX
  • Shutter Speed 1/25
  • 25p

Not so sure about the 1/25 Shutter. Why do you shoot at such a low shutter?
 
Not so sure about the 1/25 Shutter. Why do you shoot at such a low shutter?

I would think that the shutter speed would change depending on the material being filmed (lighting conditions, aesthetic effects, etc) and that the main settings to look at in this thread are the ones stored in the scene file.
 
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