Rig for my GH1

mscherrah

mscherrah

Active member
Hi Everyone.

For a while now, I have been looking for plans for a diy rig for my GH1. I have come to the conclusion that I am going to have to buy one. I have about $500 to spend, and i am looking at:

indiRAILSpro DSLRsm
indiRAILSpro MP
and
THIS KOREAN RIG

Which one would be the better choice for my GH1, or is there one better for my price range? Any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!
Matt
 
I would go with the IndiFocus DSLRM... It's the most useful of the packages I would say. For the price and quality of service you get over at IndiFocus, there's nothing close in that cash bracket.
 
Looks like a nice system...I have been looking at 'cheaper' stabilizers, now I am thinking if it would be better to wait and save some $ and get one of the ones mentioned in your post, sans the Korean one...
 
Lake Films said:
Looks like a nice system...I have been looking at 'cheaper' stabilizers, now I am thinking if it would be better to wait and save some $ and get one of the ones mentioned in your post, sans the Korean one...
Click to expand...

Yeah, I am seriously looking at the indiprosm. For the $ it looks the best.
 
Take a look at the DSLR stabilizer thread in the DSLR equipment section - I don't have time to look around for it right now, but someone does a review on the indiRAILSpro DSLRsm and it turned me off of buying it. Tim's a great guy and ships fast, but I suggest taking a look at some alternatives.

A lot of people are using the gini rigs (the Korean model in your post, or alternative configurations) with great results.

Remember, you only pay for quality once...

Kegan
 
Hunter007 said:
Take a look at the DSLR stabilizer thread in the DSLR equipment section - I don't have time to look around for it right now, but someone does a review on the indiRAILSpro DSLRsm and it turned me off of buying it. Tim's a great guy and ships fast, but I suggest taking a look at some alternatives.

A lot of people are using the gini rigs (the Korean model in your post, or alternative configurations) with great results.

Remember, you only pay for quality once...

Kegan
Click to expand...

I'll take a look at that thread. THanks!
 
The problem with the indifocus gear is that everything that isn't on the rails is held together by tension between a bolt and a rod which really isn't a great way to do things. Also the tolerances aren't great.
 
I have not ever had a single problem with indifocus gear. for less than $500 I got redrock micro shoulder pad and grips and rods and added the indifocus rails.
 
I'm following the progress of Sam Morgan Moore and his half inch rails support rigs. Here's his latest video:

http://www.vimeo.com/9199510

What I find most exciting about his rig is the extreme light weight (one of his early videos stated a goal to put these directly onto a stabilizer) and the placement of the follow focus right next to the left handgrip. This should allow the user to operate the FF w/o removing a hand from the rig and temporarily throwing it out of balance.

The rails are not standard 15mm, which is a negative to some, but again he seems to be trying to keep things very light. I'd also like some subjective feedback on the skateboard wheel/canvas strap FF before I invested any money in one of these. But if it works as promised, this looks like an awesome setup.
 
I dont know if I can give you objective feedback.

Firstly my rig seems of suitable strength and size to a GH1 - 15mm is big over engineering IMO

Focus

The nylon strap - its OK with light torque short throw lenses canon 24-105 17-40 etc

Watch my other videos, www.vimeo.com/sammorganmoore

Snow Patrol, Sabre, Papparazzi Etc - Im tickling focus all the time - almost if you dont see it its working

Its no good with heavy Zeiss metal barreled primes

Im working on a toothed belt version that is awesome for those primes

Im convinced that the position of the FF is critical to a smooth handheld shot with on AC to pull for you

More vids coming soon

Im also getting a 15mm converter for use of HocusFocus etc

S
 
Thanks, Sam. Everything I've seen tells me you are on the right track. I love the small, light rig, and the placement of the FF wheel is so obvious and simple yet no one else seems to be doing it. How does it work with old Nikkor manual primes?
 
I have AF nikkors (10 years old?) they work really well - 14 .28 and 50 1.4, not super new 'plastic' short throw lenses but proper nikkors

I have a 50 1.2 but that is a little stiff - basicaly its about 15years old and 'rough as'

My 135/2 is far too stiff but that lens is very battered

It works well with my 28 3.5 PC manual lens - that has a lovely travel

Basically if a lens feels nice - it works - if it feels like it has lived in the grit bin it does not

As I said Im working on a toothed belt - that works with everything - also a lens prop might happen too

In terms of the placement - I think I push myself in my operating more than the other manufacs do - you dont see them out shooting and showing much

Im working up to a really specific shootNshow soon with specific excercises like you learn in steadicam operation - keeping a black cross centred and sharp while one performs planned moves

S
 
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