Removing the Green tint in my settings...

K

Kustombrad

New member
I've had my DVX200 for about a year and a half and I'm still struggling with something. No matter what I do, there's a hint of "Green" in the shot. This is not just skin tones, it's just the whole look. I'm shooting everything at 4k/24fps but it doesn't really seem to matter if I change it around. Most of the time I'm stuck with bad lighting (lots of shops with standard fluorescent lights) that I have no control over. I've cranked both the Green and Yellow settings back and I still can't get it right. I don't have this issue with my DSLR's or my GoPro, but I'm still fighting this camera. What am I missing? Thank you for any input...
 
First, welcome to DVXuser.

Long time Panny user here, but I don't own a 200. Maybe you know this stuff, but I'll start with the basics. Two suggestions to start:

Panny usually has a built in scene file to deal with flo lighting and the setting usually works fairly well. If the cam didn't ship with a scene file for flo lighting, you could look at one from a different cam (Like the stock one on my PX270) and adapt it to the 200. Barry Green, one of the founders of DVXuser, has written a guide book for the 200. Often, his books ship with the new cams as he has an arrangement with Panny. His books are excellent and if you don't have it, it would be worthwhile to get the most out of the cam regardless. His books always cover issues like this and virtually everything about the cam.

Once a flo adjusting scene file is selected, you must also do a white and black balance. Most cams can do a auto white balance, but you really should do it manually. The cam probably has presets for daylight and tungsten spectrum, but neither of those will work for flo lighting. If the shop is lit with flos, and there is a big bay door with lots of sunlight coming in....you're screwed, try to limit the light sources. A mix of flos, daylight and whatever else, can really play havoc with your look.

Grant
 
X2 on TDCat's scene file. Do a black balance, then do a white balance with a gray card or real white balance card. Florescents suck... no way around it. If you can use ANY daylight spec fill light at all it will help, especially for interviews. I have a small color temp adjustable camera mounted LED light I almost always keep with me which has really saved my butt during in-office talking head interview type stuff. With TDCat's file I can still get some green but only under really cheap Florescents and it's better than my C300 and 5D4. I can usually tone it down a bit further in post without wrecking all the rest of the colors. I don't get the green tinge outdoors, or with studio lighting, or even most practical lighting. For reference, here is what I am using (I modified TDCats)

DVX200 Green Killing Custom Skin Tone Profile Reference Cheat Sheet!
Scene File 1
1) Scene 1
2) Color tone “natural”
3) Master detail “-10” (or closer to “0”)
4) Detail coring “1”
5) Skin tone detail “OFF”
6) V level detail “0”
7) Knee ape level “2”
8) RB gain control = “DO NOT CHANGE”
9) Chroma level “0”
10) Chroma phase “0”
11) Matrix “Norm 1”
12) Master pedestal “0”
13) Gamma mode “HD”
14) Black gamma “-3”
15) Black gamma range “3”
16) Knee mode “Off”
17) Knee master point “93.0”
18) Knee master slope “85”
19) DRS “OFF”
20) DRS effect “1”
21) Auto iris “ON”
22) V Log “OFF”
23) Noise Reduction Control “0” to slight increase if needed.
Color Correction Settings
Color Saturation Phase
R -22 +8
R-Mg -15 0
Mg -5 0
Mg-Mg-B 0 0
B 0 0
B B Cy -12 0
B Cy Cy 0 +15
Cy 0 0
Cy G 0 0
G 0 0
G G Yi -10 -25
G Yi Yi -15 -2
Yi 0 0
Yi Yi R -20 +10
Yi R R -25 +10
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top