Remote start stop record for AF100

Mac,
Don't throw away your Aaton handles yet ! Yes, same handle start/stop to right, inching to the left. Abel made us a long cable w/lemo on one end (handlle) and mini plug (3.5mm?) on camera end. We run the cable thru the rods all the way to back of camera. You could probably make the cable yourself if you're handy w/lemo connectors.
In actual practice the on/off switch is a little clunky . You depress switch to the right and camera runs, but to stop you must not only depress switch to the left but depress it to the right again. Does that make sense? So yes , the handle switch does work but takes a couple extra motions to stop recording.
Of course, I have not tested what happens if you inadvertantly plug in handle cable to camera while switch is in "on" position. I know I wasted a lot of film in my Aaton
back in the day : ) Camera ran so quietly that a lot of film could run thru the gate before you heard it run out!

When shooting AF100 on a tripod I have discovered that I can use my Zoe zoom control rec button to start/stop recording very conveniently from the tripod handle. Of course, zoom function will not work.
 
What I would like to know is how to trigger the AF101 by movement. It would be for this sideproject of mine:

http://www.rieniotten.com/wildlife

(this was shot with a Sony handycam with IR but they have babies now who will come out at the end of the afternoon which could be shot with an AF101 with 300mm lens without IR)
 
n actual practice the on/off switch is a little clunky . You depress switch to the right and camera runs, but to stop you must not only depress switch to the left but depress it to the right again.
Click to expand...

yeah, I know the drill, I've been using the walnut grip on my HPX500 for a few years. Girven at Abels said he'd check into making a cable for me... I could do it, but after my Cineroid issues (elsewhere) I'm a little gun shy.
 
I know I wasted a lot of film in my Aaton
back in the day
Click to expand...

I miss the flickering finder so I know I'm running, timecode just ain't the same... Off subject, I know...
 
Remote start stop record for AF100

Has anyone had any luck actually building the switch or wiring up the S/S jack on the camera? With a 2.5mm plug in that jack, absolutely nothing happens when the pins are connected together. I had thought this just required a momentary contact pushbutton to short the tip to the sleeve but that seems not to be correct (or I'm missing something).

Any help out there?

Pete
 
PeteGould said:
Has anyone had any luck actually building the switch or wiring up the S/S jack on the camera? With a 2.5mm plug in that jack, absolutely nothing happens when the pins are connected together. I had thought this just required a momentary contact pushbutton to short the tip to the sleeve but that seems not to be correct (or I'm missing something). Any help out there? Pete
Click to expand...

I followed the same instructions and got the same zero-zip-nada result, yet I plug my HVX Varizoom control into the same 2.5 jack and s/s works perfectly. Has anyone succeeded?
 
Indeed it does not work. I've followed the instructions from here http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?196377-Super-easy-to-make-DIY-remote-for-Panasonic-cameras. The iris and focus controls work as described, but start/stop does not.
 
Hmm, the wiring in that link is the same as the wiring in the link I referenced. I wonder what is different? I'll have to take another look at it.
 
Got it!

Got it!

Paul F said:
Hmm, the wiring in that link is the same as the wiring in the link I referenced. I wonder what is different? I'll have to take another look at it.
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GOT IT! I Looked at all the schematics and took my Varizoom controller apart and realized the common thread is that all the DIY and commercial controls include the, in this case, un-needed zoom control. Pins A & C control the Start/Stop but the AF 100 apparently likes to see the zoom control connected as well.

I put a simple 10K ohm 1/4 watt (non-variable) resistor between pins B & C and now Start/Stop works perfectly with a momentary contact switch between pins A&C.

It did add .99 cents to the bill but now you have 4 spare 10K ohm resistors (they come in a 5-pack).
 
So you basically make a short cut between the center pin to the outer pin right? I'll might dig into my electronicbox and put something together tonight.
 
editman said:
So you basically make a short cut between the center pin to the outer pin right? I'll might dig into my electronicbox and put something together tonight.
Click to expand...

'B' & 'C' are what is called the 'ring' and 'sleeve' with 'tip' or 'A' on the end. The sleeve is 'common' or 'ground'. 10k ohm goes between the ring and sleeve.

I'm not sure what Darren is doing differently but from the IM's I've received, his plan is not working for a number of users and this resistor does the trick. Perhaps it's influenced by the type of lens attached to the camera.

I did notice in his video that he is running two shielded wires from the 2.5 mil connector, having come off a Motorola headset - no telling what's inside the moulded connector.

I did measure 3.23vdc across A & C and 3.27 vdc across B & C so I would avoid any cross connection between A & B - no telling where that might go.

Who knows - this option works where the direct connect failed so you decide.

Regards,
Scott
 
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just refit my waterhousing for my hpx170 to fit the af100 in but none of the manual controls are in the right spot. will be looking some of the electric controls for on off and zoom as well. each separate would be perfect to attach to each existing nob. had to take off the top handle and it just squeeked in.
 
I gave it a shot. Had a headset for my wireless phone that didn't work as it should so I tried it to see if I could make it work.

On the cord is the microphone module with an answer button. By just moving the "A" pin to another point on the push "answer" button it worked. A press and it starts another press and it stops recording. Great!
When I took away the earpiece it stopped working so there has to be some sort of resistans between "B" and "C". I put a 10k resistor between and it worked like a charm again. Beside adding the resistor I used all of the existing parts and didn't have to add a push button! Total cost=about nothing!

Check it out here!
 
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I know this is an old thread, but thought I would post that I had John Huffman from Jony Jib make me a Y cable that powers a B4 lens and enables start/stop via the lens start/stop button on my AF-100. The cable has a 12-pin hirose connector on one end, with an Anton-Bauer D-tap and a 2.5mm plug on the other. The D-tap plugs into any compatible 12V D-tap jack (battery plate or battery itself), and the 2.5mm plugs into the S/S connector on the back of the AF-100. It works great and is almost $200 cheaper than the one that Abel-Cine sells. It'a available on Ebay if anybody is interested. Just search for "AF100 Y cable." He can also custom build other power solutions...so if you need a 2.1mm power plug instead of a D-tap, he can provide it.

I tried making cables myself for this but it's just too darn difficult to solder a 12-pin hirose correctly. The cable I bought works great and I shoot almost exclusively with our Fujinon 20x 2/3" broadcast lens with the AF100. I still use still lenses and own the Panasonic 20mm pancake lens and a few Canons and Tamrons, but it's sooo much easier to shoot with the B4 and the quality difference to my eye is virtually non-existent.

Chris Blair
Magnetic Image, Inc.
Evansville, IN
www.videomi.com
 
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