Procedure for evaluating exposure with MTF adapter + Nikon lenses?

Baluardo

Well-known member
Hi everybody,

I am learning more every day with the F3.
I still haven't consolidated a procedure to evaluate the right exposure.
Thing is that I am using MTF adapter with Nikon lenses, so I am not really aware of what aperture I am at (unless the iris is fully open, and I am using a prime lens or I am at one end of a zoom lens).
Therefore using a light meter doesn't help too much sometimes.

What I do:
- Use the 100% zebras to check out for clipping
- Use the brightness indicator (or type1 zebras) trying to have 60-70 IRE on subjects (if applicable, like with talking heads)
- evaluation 'by eye'
- generically make sure that the histogram 'makes sense'

All of this still sounds a bit empyrical to me. I wonder if somebody can suggest a more 'procedural' way of doing it?

thanks!
Andrea
 
Best thing is of course to have a waveform to look at, but I assume that's not available in which case you are on the right track. Frankly even if you knew the f stop you would need those tools for final evaluation anyway. The Optitek prolock adapter incidently is more expensive but does give you f stops for G lenses. Its a great adapter also holds the lens better.
 
Is this model OK for the F3 (or only for Red One) ?:
http://optitek.org/nikon-prolock.php

That is the Red model. The F3 model is normally a little more expensive than the Red model because it has the flange for the Sony mount instead of the flat Red bolt on mount. (Then again the F3 model removes in seconds, the Red model does not.)

We did a group buy a few months ago. Post 6 has a picture of it on the F3.
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?263524-F3-Group-Buy-for-the-ProLock

If you're interested I'd write to Jacek and ask him if any discount is still available for DVXuser members: jacek2 at optitek.org (remove spaces and put in @ sign) We didn't quite reach 20 buyers, but we were close.
 
Find white in the scene (or provide it with a white card) use the zebras to give you a 97% or 98% value of white, then everything else falls into place. I'm using the Cinegamma setting that clips evrything above 100.
 
Back
Top