power breakout help

T

treynolds

Well-known member
Ok so i just upgraded to a d600 from a t2i and i am putting together my new kit. Here is the plan
I have a 5" monitor that uses NP-F batteries, as well as a few LED lights that use the same so i found this thing here and i thought, well hell maybe i could power my whole shoulder rig from a couple of these bricks. I would like to take that and modify the cable that runs into the camera to attach to my d600 (ideally with a battery grip but i still dont have one of those for this camera). Then what i would like to do is add a power IN on this battery break out so when i am on sticks i can plug the whole thing in to an AC adapter and run the camera, monitor and possibly a black magic hyperdeck off of it.

I guess my main question is this
How many AMPS do you think i would need to power the d600, a 5" monitor (which came with a 1amp adapter), the hyperdeck, and small 5v hdmi splitter (probably 500Mah)

Anybody out there have a hyperdeck who could check what the power supply is rated for for me?
 
Ok so here is a bit more detail
this is the power breakout
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DSLR-Rig-NP...227?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f20d6174b

This is the standard AC adapter for the d600 i am going to modify to mount to the breakout
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EH-5-EP-5B-...05?pt=Camera_Cables_Cords&hash=item19d8017fc9
using this standard pin connector
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pin-Rapid...684?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2486604c
that way i can use the AC adapter or the battery breakout and should i rent a canon I can still use it as well
this is the hdmi splitter i have
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10113&cs_id=1011306&p_id=8204&seq=1&format=2
and this is the monitor
http://www.amazon.com/Camax-H056-backplate-Camcorder-DSR-PD198p/dp/B006KXWQYE

i will post pictures of my progress as it is made.

Does anybody have a black magic hypderdeck shuttle? if so could you post a picture of the bottom of the device for mounting purposes. I really don't want to have to spend the extra $100 for the cheese plate but i will need to mount this thing to my rig.
 
I built a voltage regulator into a Wasabi Power (EN-EL15 Compatible) battery. I just ripped out the cells, and soldered a switching regulator to the board. I plug that into the Anton Bauer battery plate on my HyperDeck Shuttle 2. It works great!

IMG_20130113_205623.jpgIMG_20130113_210417.jpg
 
treynolds said:
I guess my main question is this
How many AMPS do you think i would need to power the d600, a 5" monitor (which came with a 1amp adapter), the hyperdeck, and small 5v hdmi splitter (probably 500Mah)

Anybody out there have a hyperdeck who could check what the power supply is rated for for me?
Click to expand...

It says right on the bottom of the D600: 7.0/9V 2.5A
The Hyperdeck will work with a 12-18V DC supply, and it pulls 10W at 12V (or .833A)
 
So i just got my ac adapter for my d600 in and im thrown off a little bit. The cable coming form the dummy battery has 4 leads in it, rather than the two i expected. Im wondering if it would just be smarter to build a dummy with a cable coming out similar to what you did Arercher. The reason i didn't do this in the first place was the price for a single battery. I planned on keeping the AC adapter usable so that i could have it for time-lapse situations. What did you use for a voltage regulator? And on the pin outs what voltage do you have to each? because my power break out has 7.2v output already. I guess I'm just at a loss for what to do with the other 2 pins that aren't my + and -. Are they just for communicating how much power is left in the brick?

Thanks for the help guys.
 
If I were to adapt that dummy battery for use with an external battery (which I thought about before going the route I did), I would first take a multimeter and check which lead is the positive voltage and which is the negative. You can do that by just holding one lead from the multimeter on the dummy battery side where the "+" marking is, and find which lead in the cable that corresponds to. Then, do the same with the negative. I would just ignore the other two leads; they probably tell the camera that you are running from AC power and not a battery, but you can avoid this by just powering your camera from 9V. I found that 9V will cause the battery gauge on the camera to show "full", while anything below will show less of a charge. Again, this is where those other leads come in; they tell the camera more precisely if the battery is full.

You will still need to regulate your power so you don't blow anything up. I used a switching buck regulator that can handle up to a 3A load at 9V. They are $8 on Amazon.

If you want to keep with the dummy battery as you said, you could actually build an inline regulator that you can connect between the dummy battery and the external battery. You'll have to find that same connector though to keep from modifiying the OEM cable, which may prove to be impractical, or you could replace the connector with a new one entirely.

I went the route I did because the Wasabi Power battery was only $25 on Amazon, the regulator was $8, and it was dead simple and efficient.

I hope this helps.
 
i agree that your battery build is a better idea. I am looking at the buck regulators on amazon but having a hard time figuring out if they will fit into the battery.
I have two choices
http://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Su...7809&sr=8-7&keywords=switching+buck+regulator

and

http://www.amazon.com/LM2596-Conver...7809&sr=8-1&keywords=switching+buck+regulator

The other option i have is to wire directly 7v into a battery case without any voltage regulator right? I don't see any reason why if i can get the voltage correct of the battery break out box then I shouldn't need to worry about the amperage.

Where did you find the cheapest 3rd party batteries? i found some on ebay for about $25 i think...
 
Both of those regulators will work. Here's a question for you: What batteries will you be using to power the camera? The regulator won't work unless you have a voltage that is higher than the dropout (which I believe is 2V above your output voltage). If you are using 7.2v batteries, I don't think that you will need a regulator, however, you may want to hold a multimeter up to the battery, and see what the actual voltage is when the battery is fully charged. If the battery runs between 7v and 9v, it will be perfect, if the highest charge is around 7v, then you're camera will probably shut off much sooner than normal (when the voltage drops too low).
 
Well the breakout i am using has 3 power outlets, one at 12v, one at 7.2v (roughly) and one at 5v. It runs off of two 7v batteries in series. I was planning on running the dummy battery in the grip while leaving a charged battery in the body itself. that way should the power start to dip it would still have the internal battery as a backup. Kinda like a UPS on a computer.
 
If you already have the dummy battery, and you have regulated 7.2V, I would say that you should just buy a new 4-pin connector from Radio Shack. Replace the male and female connector for the AC adapter, then make another cable with that same connector to attach to your breakout.
 
thats my problem though. The 7.2v out of the battery pack is a 2 pin. when i measure the current on the 4 pins to the AC adapter i can't make heads or tails of it. i get about 9v across 2 pins and then near 12 across the other. So i need to figure out which 2 wires are my + and - and then i can ignore the other two i guess.
 
ok i realized i was being an idiot and working backwards. I just found continuity from the + pin on the battery to the pole that it connects to. Now i know which two are the correct pins to wire my connector into. Now im in business.
 
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