dino_squirrel
New member
Hi everyone, I don't post here often but my friend is a regular user and he keeps me updated about things he finds.
Long story short, I more than tinker with electronics and I've made our power supply for our camera rig.
We're using the Sony V mounts with some (super) cheap plate that has power connectors on it that supply power to your accessories on your rig. With that said, the connectors on the plate are VERY bad, they don't supply enough current and force you to over volt your devices and add external power regulators to step down the voltage. So with all that said, I build an external device that takes the 16volts from the plate and brings it down to 8.5v or 9v or whatever voltage you want, depending on what we're using. I recently made a new one and everyone was so happy with it that they suggest I try to sell it. So, I guess here I am trying to do just that.
Essentially I've made what Jag35 sells - it's a power regulating module, in a box, with connectors. I put more design into mine for many reasons (voltage read outs are your choice of color - Red, green, or blue.
1) looks
2) cleanliness on the rig
3) cable management
4) utility.
My system uses very efficient Buck converters inside which are better than other voltage regulators. The BUCK converters will keep your voltage you chose, until the battery reaches a level that it can no longer supply above the output voltage you chose. So if you choose 6 volts out, and the battery is a 16 volt battery, that means you'll get 6 volts until the battery reaches about 7.5 volts - now if you're using Lithium batteries of any type you'll never get THAT lower (or you'll destroy your battery) but the idea still applies. The converters can take up to 30 volts in, and at that voltage will supply around 28v out, max. You're looking at 3amps without issues, but anything more would require a different system so DO NOT POWER LIGHTS from these things! Just use your p-tap for that. So anyway, even when the voltage on the battery goes down from usage, the voltage from the BUCK will stay the same so you don't have to worry.
When comparing my system to the Jag system you'll see that my box is flatter, but wider, can carry MUCH more current than the Jag, has a voltage readout so you know exactly what you're tuning too, and the wiring is coil/spiral cable so the wires don't stick out physically or visually.
I'm seeing if there are enough people interested in the system so that I may order parts in bulk to see the costs for everyone down.
I'm asking $110 which includes shipping.
The images show the device on top of the battery - This is a very rough version, if enough order, the final will be clean and smooth all around. Now, I wouldn't be profiting much here (about $45 per unit), I just want guys like us to be able to not worry about batteries for our devices but not be ripped off in the process.
We've used this system, but in another enclosure, for more than 900 hours and never had an issue. Oh, we're using the GH2. I'm not responsible to damage to your camera, you tune your own voltage, etc yadda yadda.
And please, if I've posted in the wrong place just let me but don't delete the thread - I don't want to type all this again... sigh...
Anyway, thanks for reading, I'm open to ALL comments and I'll monitor the thread to see what people would change, what camera they want to use this one, etc. Oh and we also power our BriteView bv2233 on top of our rig and it works GREAT.
Pic 1 - The voltage readout
Pic 2 - The regulator on top of our battery
Pic 3 - The small hole you see, is where you use a small screw driver to adjust your voltage out
pic 4 - what our system looks like rigged up. The cables have about 1.5 MORE feet to stretch than that current position.
So anyway, bombard me.
Thanks for reading.
Jacob
Long story short, I more than tinker with electronics and I've made our power supply for our camera rig.
We're using the Sony V mounts with some (super) cheap plate that has power connectors on it that supply power to your accessories on your rig. With that said, the connectors on the plate are VERY bad, they don't supply enough current and force you to over volt your devices and add external power regulators to step down the voltage. So with all that said, I build an external device that takes the 16volts from the plate and brings it down to 8.5v or 9v or whatever voltage you want, depending on what we're using. I recently made a new one and everyone was so happy with it that they suggest I try to sell it. So, I guess here I am trying to do just that.
Essentially I've made what Jag35 sells - it's a power regulating module, in a box, with connectors. I put more design into mine for many reasons (voltage read outs are your choice of color - Red, green, or blue.
1) looks
2) cleanliness on the rig
3) cable management
4) utility.
My system uses very efficient Buck converters inside which are better than other voltage regulators. The BUCK converters will keep your voltage you chose, until the battery reaches a level that it can no longer supply above the output voltage you chose. So if you choose 6 volts out, and the battery is a 16 volt battery, that means you'll get 6 volts until the battery reaches about 7.5 volts - now if you're using Lithium batteries of any type you'll never get THAT lower (or you'll destroy your battery) but the idea still applies. The converters can take up to 30 volts in, and at that voltage will supply around 28v out, max. You're looking at 3amps without issues, but anything more would require a different system so DO NOT POWER LIGHTS from these things! Just use your p-tap for that. So anyway, even when the voltage on the battery goes down from usage, the voltage from the BUCK will stay the same so you don't have to worry.
When comparing my system to the Jag system you'll see that my box is flatter, but wider, can carry MUCH more current than the Jag, has a voltage readout so you know exactly what you're tuning too, and the wiring is coil/spiral cable so the wires don't stick out physically or visually.
I'm seeing if there are enough people interested in the system so that I may order parts in bulk to see the costs for everyone down.
I'm asking $110 which includes shipping.
The images show the device on top of the battery - This is a very rough version, if enough order, the final will be clean and smooth all around. Now, I wouldn't be profiting much here (about $45 per unit), I just want guys like us to be able to not worry about batteries for our devices but not be ripped off in the process.
We've used this system, but in another enclosure, for more than 900 hours and never had an issue. Oh, we're using the GH2. I'm not responsible to damage to your camera, you tune your own voltage, etc yadda yadda.
And please, if I've posted in the wrong place just let me but don't delete the thread - I don't want to type all this again... sigh...
Anyway, thanks for reading, I'm open to ALL comments and I'll monitor the thread to see what people would change, what camera they want to use this one, etc. Oh and we also power our BriteView bv2233 on top of our rig and it works GREAT.
Pic 1 - The voltage readout
Pic 2 - The regulator on top of our battery
Pic 3 - The small hole you see, is where you use a small screw driver to adjust your voltage out
pic 4 - what our system looks like rigged up. The cables have about 1.5 MORE feet to stretch than that current position.
So anyway, bombard me.
Thanks for reading.
Jacob