David W. Jones
Veteran
This is correct.
GH4 Panasonic 12-35 or Metabones Adapter?
- Thread starter brettsherman
- Start date
This is correct.
brettsherman
Well-known member
Autofocus is a whole new thing for me as I only just upgraded my C300 to dual-pixel. The thing with the GH4 is that if I'm shooting 4K I don't feel like I can adequately judge focus with the built-in LCD or viewfinder. And with no magnification while recording, it's hard to double-check. So the times I'll use it is when there is a podium where I can set the exact location of the focus box on the person speaking. I'll also do things like set the focus with AF then switch to manual. But I'm still learning what modes to use and when to use it.
With the Canon I'm playing around with leaving it in AF then toggling enable and disable. Also interviews where I have to both film and interview. I find in such cases I can't monitor the screen close enough to see when a subject may have moved out of focus.
PegLeg Media
Well-known member
I like auto focus but thats because i also do photography. If i didn't i would get a metabones. For filming things like presentations you can just turn on focus peaking and turn the aperture to 2.8 or so and more than enough will be in focus since the GH4 doesn't get that shallow depth of field. then for interviews you can aim for that nice bokeh
Miklos Nemeth
Member
I am learning a hell lot from you experienced guys here.
(1) I was positively shocked that Canon is offering hardware upgrade for customers of C100/C300:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/video/news/canon-brings-dual-pixel-autofocus-upgrade-c300
absolutely brilliant. After reading the news, I was a bit surprised, though, that the C300 dual-pixel upgrade gives only center area autofocus vs the much cheaper dual-pixel 70D, which gives touch-to-autofocus on the entire frame. With one hand Canon gives, with another hand it takes away.
(2) I had the feeling that manual focusing is the preferred way of focusing among videographers, and I've learned that some GH4 users find MF distractive, which I completely understand nevertheless.
(3) I simply cannot believe that GH4 does not support magnification while recording. Magnification with accurate focus peaking is a must in video-oriented cameras. Even the terribly inexpensive Sony A5100 can do that. Can you confirm this imitations (maybe only in 4K shooting) of the GH4?
AndrewTaran
Active member
No, focus punch-in during recording is not available neither in 4k nor in 1080p. Yes, I know it sucks and hopefully it will be fixed via firmware update.
GrahamH
Well-known member
Dont hold your breath. That's the way it has been on all GH models, the current G6, etc.
Miklos Nemeth
Member
I opened the operating instructions user guide/manual of the brilliant/emblematic Panasonic AF100/101 http://www.panasonic.com/business/provideo/includes/pdf/AG-AF100P_OI.pdf and I didn't find any hints that any magnification (expended focus) would be available on that video camera. Maybe Panasonic has never implemented such a function on any of its (video) cameras? Hmm, interesting.
Walter Hergt
Active member
Yes, when I am continually responding to scenes changing before me in a documentary context (or when doing interviews), I would love the "focus pull" quality of canon's auto-focus, even if it is only center of frame. It would allow me to singularly focus on framing and story-telling which is the point of it all. Panasonic's AF-C hunting is, well, bleh. So I manually focus.
@Brett - yes, those more controlled situations could work quite well and you have a good strategy. I am trying to figure minimal rigging for the GH4 and find even my SmallHD can be pretty clunky at times. The Kamerar LCD viewfinder is cheap (and feels that way) has helped immensely. But no punch-in while recording GH4 is just that and we have to do our best without.
@Brett - yes, those more controlled situations could work quite well and you have a good strategy. I am trying to figure minimal rigging for the GH4 and find even my SmallHD can be pretty clunky at times. The Kamerar LCD viewfinder is cheap (and feels that way) has helped immensely. But no punch-in while recording GH4 is just that and we have to do our best without.
Oh geez, an equivalence freak has finally showed up here. After seeing them in the photo forums I was hoping they'd never appear here.
You can use the Sigma (and all third party) APS lenses on the Metabones Speedboosters because unlike the Canon's, they do not employ a shorter back focus (hence the 'S' in EF-S). So there won't be any mashing of glass elements.
You can use the Sigma (and all third party) APS lenses on the Metabones Speedboosters because unlike the Canon's, they do not employ a shorter back focus (hence the 'S' in EF-S). So there won't be any mashing of glass elements.
Bern Caughey
Veteran
Tested the 18-35mm f/1.8 on a 7D to remove any slop introduced by an adapter such as the SpeedBooster. Also because I hoped this lens could replace my 16-35mm f/2.8 for use on the C300.
Still contemplating picking up GL Optic's rehoused 18-35mm, but it can be a bit heavy. Allstar's Lite version is less heavy but the focus throw is relatively short.
GrahamH
Well-known member
That's bit misleading. Yes you can physically mount most APS-C lenses on an M4/3 Speedbooster - but many will have unacceptable vignetting.
While it might not cover completely for stills, in 4K video it should work.
GrahamH
Well-known member
Fair enough - I don't have experience with the 4K mode. Folk just need to be aware that zooms like, say, the Nikkor 18-135mm DX are unusable in 1080 mode - that Nikkor vignettes severely at both ends of the zoom range.
brettsherman
Well-known member
I had not even considered how the 4K crop would work with Metabones. I didn't even know you could physically mount the EF-S lens on it. That adds even more value to the Metabones adapter. I can modify the lens I'm using depending on whether or not I'm shooting 4K or 1080. If shooting in 4K I can use my 15-85mm or the 17-55mm. If shooting 1080 I can use the 24-105mm and get a nice wide angle with either scenario.
No no no no no! You *cannot* mount EF-S lenses! I specifically mentioned third-party lenses, because they don't use the short back-focus that the EF-S lenses use! The rear protrudes too far back for the EF-S lenses to physically mount, so please please please don't do it!
I own both the 12-35 and SB (clone) +Sigma combo.
For 12-35, you gain IS, low weight, Autofocus and slightly wider 24mm.
For Sigma+SB, you gain a larger aperture, shallow depth of field, better focus pulling.
I use the 12-35 primarily in better light, handheld, space constraints and for action photography.
I use the SB+Sigma in low light with a rig or for manual photography. This combo is heavy and almost impossible to shoot handheld for video without stabilisation in post. Also note that if you intend to change aperture, you will need the original chipped SB.
Being able to adapt the 24-70 and the 70-200 at times also makes the SB a great value.
If you take photos and use AF, go for the 12-35.
If you only take videos and have a rig of sorts, go for the SB+Sigma. You can consider getting the clones if cost is a concern.
For 12-35, you gain IS, low weight, Autofocus and slightly wider 24mm.
For Sigma+SB, you gain a larger aperture, shallow depth of field, better focus pulling.
I use the 12-35 primarily in better light, handheld, space constraints and for action photography.
I use the SB+Sigma in low light with a rig or for manual photography. This combo is heavy and almost impossible to shoot handheld for video without stabilisation in post. Also note that if you intend to change aperture, you will need the original chipped SB.
Being able to adapt the 24-70 and the 70-200 at times also makes the SB a great value.
If you take photos and use AF, go for the 12-35.
If you only take videos and have a rig of sorts, go for the SB+Sigma. You can consider getting the clones if cost is a concern.