So I just bought a Nikon D5300 and was just out trying it out in the park. Lovely sunny weather out today, which leads me to my question. I wanted to try out filming in 50p so I could test the footage in slowmotion. I tried filming with a wide aperture (f3,5) and the shutter speed set to 1/100 since I've read that as a rule of thumb it should be double the framerate. Correct? My ISO was 100 and WB was "Sunlight". The issue was that the footage got overexposed with these settings. How do I make wide aperture at 1/100 shutterspeed in sunlight without it getting overexposed?
Overexposed video in Sunlight with wide aperture. What to do?
- Thread starter larsefx
- Start date
j1clark@ucsd.edu
Veteran
You can go up to F/8-F/11 without 'fear' from diffraction effects, so why shoot at F/3.5???
In any case, if you want to shoot at F/3.5 @ 1/100 s shutter speed @ ISO 100... you will need a neutral density filter. They are rated in 2 ways. 'density', which each .3 is 'one stop', or in terms of 'reduction', such as 2 (1/2) 4 (1/4) 8 (1/8)... which correspond to 1 stop, 2 stops, 3 stops, of reduction of the amount of light passed by the filter.
It is recommended that for any ND filter above 3-4 stops to use a 'Infra Red' blocking filter. Some ND filters come with IR filters as well.
If you have a 'lens box' type hood, it may have the option for 'thin' filters, which add less to the optical path, and are usually cheaper than the glass filters that attach directly to the lens.
I bought a N8 (.9, 3 stop) filter with a 72mm size, and a 62mm adapter so I could use the ND filter on two types of lenses I have.
drapeama
Well-known member
I'd suggest you to get a Variable ND filter before you invest into something more expensive.
The Cokin P aren't bad, but if you're serious about shooting video in bright places with wide open lenses, then a mattebox with some decent glass filters (4x4 or bigger) would be an option to consider.
The Cokin P aren't bad, but if you're serious about shooting video in bright places with wide open lenses, then a mattebox with some decent glass filters (4x4 or bigger) would be an option to consider.
I would buy a fixed screw on ND8 filter. Its cheap and still almost always better quality than variable filters, if you don't wan't to spend alot. And you can carry it with you and be really light and portable without a big rig or setup.
Something like this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/146962-REG/Hoya_A77ND8X_77mm_Neutral_Density_NDX8.html
Something like this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/146962-REG/Hoya_A77ND8X_77mm_Neutral_Density_NDX8.html
John Caballero
Veteran
There are rules to follow and if you don't follow them you don't get positive results. It is all about lighting, ISO, shutter speed and aperture. If you don't know how they interact it is time for a crash course on filmmaking.
drapeama
Well-known member
I understand what you wanted to do here. The only way to avoid overexposed image without filters, is either by using a higher shutter speed (1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, etc) but this will also affects your visuals (jerky movements, jell-o effects) OR by closing down the lens and using smaller aperture (f8, f/11, f/18). And this is by using the lowest ISO possible, ISO100.The reason why I shot at F/3.5 is to try to make some detailshots with a shallow depth of field. Isn't it possible to do this in sunshine without having to buy filters? If not I'll just have to go for a cheap one to start out with
About the "cheap" filters, the cheaper you get, the more color cast you'll have. If you're going Cokin or 4x4 filters, avoid resin type filters.
The cheapest glass filters are probably the Cavision on B&H. I have a set and they well worth the 60$/pc.
That's for sure. ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed works all together. One can compensate for another.
