On camera LED light

Will anyone be selling cheapo versions of this or making a comprehensive guide for us idiots?

Do I need to soider the stuff together?
 
The reason for the resistors is so i can run each LED at 3.8 Volts, if i use no resistors i would have to run each LED at 3 Volts so im going to get a brighter output using resistors.

The whole array with resistors will use about .4 Amp Hour.

I still need to figure out how to dim it.

Daniel Wee said:
Actually, if I were you, I would design it so that I won't need any resistors in series since those will only serve to dissipate heat and waste power. Why not add a few more LED's to drop the voltage? That way you dissipate it as light instead of heat which does no one any good.

Daniel Wee
Click to expand...
 
I might consider that depedning on how good they work.
If i dont sell them ill definatly make plans for all your dummies... :P
thef0x said:
Will anyone be selling cheapo versions of this or making a comprehensive guide for us idiots?

Do I need to soider the stuff together?
Click to expand...
 
I got 3/4 of the board soldered up and done... this thing is BRIGHT!!!

5738light2.jpg


1597light.jpg
 
Here are a couple of pics of an LED light that I made for my HVX.

1161574063.jpg

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The color of the LEDs is 8000k so it runs to the blue side but for eye lighting I found it to work better going cooler.

Bob
 
It takes 9 to 12VDC input and I run it off of a number of battery packs but I'd say 90% of the time it is on my camera stabilizer rig and is powered off the the sled batteries. As for cost, I want to say around $85 for everything. True white LEDs tend to be a bit more expensive.

Bob
 
hey everyone, enspired by this thread I just built a prototype myself.
48 LED's arranged in pairs.. 6 rows of 8. I'm powering it off a 9V battery right now that's kinda worn out. I put a potentiometer in series just in case ,but right now it's down to 0 ohms and nothing is heating up - my guess is that the battery is sorta dead. In any case, i made some test runs with it, and it provides an OK amount of light. Whats interesting is I have a streamlight twintask 2-D flash light and on full blast with 10 LED"s going it provides what looks like about the same amount of light. The TwinTask does have the added advantage of a reflector though.
Now as far as getting the most brightness out of my test setup - what calculations can I make if I dont know the specs of these particular LED's?
 
FiddlerMD said:
hey everyone, enspired by this thread I just built a prototype myself.
48 LED's arranged in pairs.. 6 rows of 8. I'm powering it off a 9V battery right now that's kinda worn out. I put a potentiometer in series just in case ,but right now it's down to 0 ohms and nothing is heating up - my guess is that the battery is sorta dead. In any case, i made some test runs with it, and it provides an OK amount of light. Whats interesting is I have a streamlight twintask 2-D flash light and on full blast with 10 LED"s going it provides what looks like about the same amount of light. The TwinTask does have the added advantage of a reflector though.
Now as far as getting the most brightness out of my test setup - what calculations can I make if I dont know the specs of these particular LED's?
Click to expand...
Sorry can´t help you with your question, but would like to see some pics of your prototype!
 
diy lite

diy lite

thef0x said:
Will anyone be selling cheapo versions of this or making a comprehensive guide for us idiots?

Do I need to soider the stuff together?
Click to expand...

count me in i too am interested in buying one of these great inventions from you guys.

:beer:
 
Spartacus said:
Sorry can´t help you with your question, but would like to see some pics of your prototype!
Click to expand...

I'll try to take some pics tonight - it looks like pretty much every other prototype :) I also tried running it w/ the DVX battery as well as a sony infolithium M - all produce what seems to be about the same amount of light. The other thing i noticed is that some LED pairs produce more light than others - this, I suppose, could be the LED's themselves or the soldering in those particular places offering more resistance for some reason ..
 
I'll post some pics and how to information tonight. I just got too busy at work to get it done this morning. I'll also post links to good LEDs and information.

Bob
 
FiddlerMD said:
hey everyone, enspired by this thread I just built a prototype myself.
48 LED's arranged in pairs.. 6 rows of 8. I'm powering it off a 9V battery right now that's kinda worn out. I put a potentiometer in series just in case ,but right now it's down to 0 ohms and nothing is heating up - my guess is that the battery is sorta dead. In any case, i made some test runs with it, and it provides an OK amount of light. Whats interesting is I have a streamlight twintask 2-D flash light and on full blast with 10 LED"s going it provides what looks like about the same amount of light. The TwinTask does have the added advantage of a reflector though.
Now as far as getting the most brightness out of my test setup - what calculations can I make if I dont know the specs of these particular LED's?
Click to expand...

How about taking a $30 twintask, and dissassembling,.. mounting the light head in some kind of swivel mount (would look great on my faux-fig), maybe relocate the batteries in a more suiteable location.. (at the base of the rig, or in a smaller pack below).
 
TeamJoeDawn said:
How about taking a $30 twintask, and dissassembling,.. mounting the light head in some kind of swivel mount (would look great on my faux-fig), maybe relocate the batteries in a more suiteable location.. (at the base of the rig, or in a smaller pack below).
Click to expand...

Could I power a flashlight that uses two D cells.. (3.0v combined) with a 3.6v black-decker versapak battery (3.6v)?? What kind of resistor would I have to install in-line to get this down to 3v?

versapak website.. http://www.blackanddecker.com/productguide/product-details.aspx?productid=2464&toolview=4#details

Thanks to any closet electricians that know the answer to this!

J
 
I'll try to take some pics of my rig going on full blast vs. the twintask just for comparison purposes tonight. Also, for the twintask solution i'd just make a simple voltage regulator so you could run it off of any type of power source (DC of course).
The one thing to keep in mind with LED lights is they're REALLY REALLY bright and shining it in someone's face is a lot more harsh than typical lights. some sort of diffusion seems to be a MUST.
 
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