David G. Smith
Steak Knife Member
In the exchange between Peter Berger and David Smith in Post #25, I have to agree with Perter Berger that the difference in light levels between interiors and exteriors is still outside the contrast range of the new sensors and so nothing has changed in that regard. You still either have to gel windows or pump up the interior with large HMIs. The BTS videos for the film "13:59" shot with a pre-production C300 in Post #29 confirms this fact.
IMO, the opening scenes of "13:59" that take place on the bus look horrible. Sure there is sufficient natural daylight to get an exposure but the lighting is flat – the close-ups have no modeling. In addition, the windows are overexposed (at least 3-4 stops I would guess) to the point of being totally blown out. Given how over exposed the windows of the bus are on an overcast day (note the wet pavement when they get off the bus), the only way you could hold detail in them on a sunny day is by either gelling the windows with ND9 (probably not an option here) or pump up the interior with an HMI. While you probably wouldn’t need a 6k Par on the bus, given the wide framing of the shots, you would need something fairly large rigged outside the bus.
If you stuck to cross cutting single head shots of the leads you might be able to get away with a battery operated Joker 400, but to light the juxtaposition of the two lead characters in a single shot, I would think you would need something larger than a 1200 given the distance between them and the fact it would have to be rigged outside the bus windows. Peter Berger’s recommendation of the new Arri M40 seems about right to me. Of course you would have to bottom chop it with heavy diffusion so that you don’t over expose the guy in the foreground while trying to reach the girls in the back ground. And as Peter Berger pointed out above, there are ways of powering large HMIs on a portable generator that could be mounted to the bus or towed behind it. Lighting the interior of the bus would not only hold detail in the windows but also build some contrast in what is now a pretty flatly lit scene IMO.
David Miles
I didn't think that our discussion about lighting and windows was a discussion of "Ether or" in using lighting control and supplemental light, but kind of a disagreement on the extent of the augmentation, especially the quantity of the supplemental lighting needed. I absolutely agree that this is totally dependent on the specific factors that you face in each individual situation. I just think that in a lot of bread and butter daylight interiors the new cameras make life a whole light easier. Especially in stuff I am looking at here in the upper Midwest.
The lighting on the street car in "13:59" is not the greatest. However, it is hard to make judgements on the creative judgements of others. I am of the opinion that with a camera like the C300, they could have done some things different to make that look a lot better. This is Monday morning quarter backing, of course, but I wonder how the images would have looked if they would have brought the exposure on the windows down and just added a little bit of supplemental lighting? Your suggestions for lighting were excellent. Thanks.
That is kind of where I am now testing out my FS100 for a project I have coming up this spring. We all know to stay away from blown out highlights and overexposure... but what I am finding is that I am just as afraid to trust the bottom end. Really it is getting to know and manipulate the bottom end. To me, I think that is the secret to squeezing the most out of the range of the sensor. We see so many posts about how the highlights on X camera look like sh*t... but we don't hear many people talking about how the bottom end looks. I find that interesting.