Northern Canada Polar Bear shoot

M

Magnus387

Active member
So I'm going to Northern Canada to shoot Polar bears in a couple of weeks, armed with my Gh13, a cineslider, 14-140mm stock lens, 20mm f1.7 pancake, 7-14mm wide angle, canon FD 85mm f1.2, and possibly a rented super telephoto. I'm considering also renting a EX1, but not quite sure.

My questions would be to anyone who has done extended extreme cold shoots: 1. What other gear should I consider bringing other than a ton of extra batteries and SD cards? 2. Any tips on capturing wild life (I've done my fair share, but any advice would be appreciated). 3. If I want to do some timelapse photography what would be the best way to go about that in the extreme cold? 4. General advice?

I realize these questions are quite broad, but any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
If it were me, I would want to be with more than one camera for something like this. Depends exactly on what you'll be doing, but if it is fast moving documentary filming, then something like the EX1 might be a wise move.

Apart from the obvious..batteries, batteries and more batteries, be careful moving from inside to outside ( and vice versa ) and when you do, allow the camera good time to adjust. Never filmed a polar bear, but it's probably not a good idea to use your cineslider next to one while it's eating.
 
Not sure about extreme colds, but I recently came from a safari in Kenya where I was shooting wildlife. I used both Canon XHA1 and GH1 and based on my experience I strongly suggest you to rent a dedicated video camera with good zoom capabilities and decent stabilizer. The problem with animals is that you can't always get close to them. At least I could get closer shots with my 20x zoom A1 than a photographer with a 400mm tele. A more expensive 800mm would probably compete against it, yet I doubt that such a bulky bazooka will get you good video. It'll be extremely shaky, even though it might be acceptable for fast shutter stills. Even Canon's 20x with its far better stabilizer than those on DSLR lenses is too shaky to dump many interesting shots.


The other problem with long distance DSLR shots is the size of the sensor, hence shallow DOF that becomes even shallower on long zooms. The GH1 autofocus is working hard at extreme zooms and that back-and-forth AF jerkiness becomes more apparent on a large DSLR sensor than on a 1/3" video sensor. So a GH1, even with a good tele, will ruin you a lot more shots than you would film safely with a dedicated camcorder - it's too shaky at long zooms, and has poorer AF for such point-and-shoot situations as filming wildlife. Not to mention the lack of built-in ND filters, zebras and other useful bells and whistles. As for the lens arsenal, sometimes you just have no time at all to switch lenses - your bears will be long gone. Even with a camcorder, you lurk, you wait patiently and when something interesting comes you, point, you adjust zoom - and still it's too late. You can't ask a bear to freeze and pose for you.

GH1 is a very decent camera for shooting people where I would prefer it to A1 even despite its drawbacks, but for wildlife - no.
 
AdrianF said:
If it were me, I would want to be with more than one camera for something like this. Depends exactly on what you'll be doing, but if it is fast moving documentary filming, then something like the EX1 might be a wise move.

Apart from the obvious..batteries, batteries and more batteries, be careful moving from inside to outside ( and vice versa ) and when you do, allow the camera good time to adjust. Never filmed a polar bear, but it's probably not a good idea to use your cineslider next to one while it's eating.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I absolutely agree with the dedicated video cam advice. I've decided to rent a Canon XF300 and use that as my primary cam, and use the GH1 for more locked down shots. Thanks for the advice
 
zigizigi said:
Not sure about extreme colds, but I recently came from a safari in Kenya where I was shooting wildlife. I used both Canon XHA1 and GH1 and based on my experience I strongly suggest you to rent a dedicated video camera with good zoom capabilities and decent stabilizer. The problem with animals is that you can't always get close to them. At least I could get closer shots with my 20x zoom A1 than a photographer with a 400mm tele. A more expensive 800mm would probably compete against it, yet I doubt that such a bulky bazooka will get you good video. It'll be extremely shaky, even though it might be acceptable for fast shutter stills. Even Canon's 20x with its far better stabilizer than those on DSLR lenses is too shaky to dump many interesting shots.


The other problem with long distance DSLR shots is the size of the sensor, hence shallow DOF that becomes even shallower on long zooms. The GH1 autofocus is working hard at extreme zooms and that back-and-forth AF jerkiness becomes more apparent on a large DSLR sensor than on a 1/3" video sensor. So a GH1, even with a good tele, will ruin you a lot more shots than you would film safely with a dedicated camcorder - it's too shaky at long zooms, and has poorer AF for such point-and-shoot situations as filming wildlife. Not to mention the lack of built-in ND filters, zebras and other useful bells and whistles. As for the lens arsenal, sometimes you just have no time at all to switch lenses - your bears will be long gone. Even with a camcorder, you lurk, you wait patiently and when something interesting comes you, point, you adjust zoom - and still it's too late. You can't ask a bear to freeze and pose for you.

GH1 is a very decent camera for shooting people where I would prefer it to A1 even despite its drawbacks, but for wildlife - no.
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I don't think that the shallow depth of field will be much of an issue when I am stopped down significantly due to the blow-out of the snow, but it could become more bothersome once it begins to get dark out side. I've decided to rent a Canon xf300 in addition - not only for the DOF but I think image stabilization will be extremely helpful (as per your advice). Thanks!
 
Ha ha! Not sure where you're going to find extreme cold, Churchill is the spot to see Polar Bears right now & temperatures there are barely falling to frost. Which is to say, my shooting in real Winter has frequently run to -20C, and occasionally dipping to -40. The most important things at that temperature are lots of batteries, keep the readies in your readies so they are warm when you need them, and DON'T take the camera into a lodge or similar to warm up. Condensation will form instantly, even inside the lens and on the imaging chip. Your camera will be useless for hours. And if it does happen, you can't then take it back outside or the condensation will turn to frost ...

Wear a pair of latex gloves under mittens is another hint -- the latex glove will go a long way to making bare skin comfortable while shooting, the mitten will allow you to actually warm your hand when not shooting. There are some decent shooters gloves sold but if you really are talking extreme, those gloves are really intended for California cold, not Manitoba cold. Lineman mitts are the ticket -- the hinge open at the palm so you can get your fingers in and out in a hurry.

Have fun.

Cheers,
GB
 
RGBaker said:
Ha ha! Not sure where you're going to find extreme cold, Churchill is the spot to see Polar Bears right now & temperatures there are barely falling to frost. Which is to say, my shooting in real Winter has frequently run to -20C, and occasionally dipping to -40. The most important things at that temperature are lots of batteries, keep the readies in your readies so they are warm when you need them, and DON'T take the camera into a lodge or similar to warm up. Condensation will form instantly, even inside the lens and on the imaging chip. Your camera will be useless for hours. And if it does happen, you can't then take it back outside or the condensation will turn to frost ...

Wear a pair of latex gloves under mittens is another hint -- the latex glove will go a long way to making bare skin comfortable while shooting, the mitten will allow you to actually warm your hand when not shooting. There are some decent shooters gloves sold but if you really are talking extreme, those gloves are really intended for California cold, not Manitoba cold. Lineman mitts are the ticket -- the hinge open at the palm so you can get your fingers in and out in a hurry.

Have fun.

Cheers,
GB
Click to expand...

RGBaker,
Thanks for the killer advice. I agree that it probably won't get extremely cold, but they did get their first snow fall of the year so I really have to be prepared for everything and anything. The latex gloves idea is brilliant, and while I do have a form fitting pair of gloves made for handling electronics, I think that your idea will probably give me a little bit more dexterity. I'm all set for batteries, and don't plan on taking my cams inside abruptly. Thanks again!
 
I would get a VariND!! I live in Finland and during the winter on a sunny day in the snow even with ND and f16 it's not quite enough!
 
RGBaker said:
Ha ha! Not sure where you're going to find extreme cold, Churchill is the spot to see Polar Bears right now & temperatures there are barely falling to frost. Which is to say, my shooting in real Winter has frequently run to -20C, and occasionally dipping to -40. The most important things at that temperature are lots of batteries, keep the readies in your readies so they are warm when you need them, and DON'T take the camera into a lodge or similar to warm up. Condensation will form instantly, even inside the lens and on the imaging chip. Your camera will be useless for hours. And if it does happen, you can't then take it back outside or the condensation will turn to frost ...

Wear a pair of latex gloves under mittens is another hint -- the latex glove will go a long way to making bare skin comfortable while shooting, the mitten will allow you to actually warm your hand when not shooting. There are some decent shooters gloves sold but if you really are talking extreme, those gloves are really intended for California cold, not Manitoba cold. Lineman mitts are the ticket -- the hinge open at the palm so you can get your fingers in and out in a hurry.

Have fun.

Cheers,
GB
Click to expand...

Interesting advice there! How do you deal with your camera when you are finished? i.e you are done shooting - but don't want to suddenly get condensation on taking it indoors.
 
the doc said:
Interesting advice there! How do you deal with your camera when you are finished? i.e you are done shooting - but don't want to suddenly get condensation on taking it indoors.
Click to expand...

The trick is to warm it without exposing it to indoor air. Cold air as found in central Canada is dead dry -- desert dry. Humidity in a home or worse a restaurant or similar will be immensely higher. Eyeglass wearers know the effect -- you step into a ski lodge with your glasses on after a morning of skiing, and you are instantly fogged up ...

To avoid the problem, put your gear in a camera bag that seals well while still outdoors, and bring the bag inside. That way the equipment warms to indoor temperature but is still surrounded by dry outdoor air. I keep a big tupperware-style bin in the back of my van, and drop the whole kit into the bin, snap the lid shut and bring it inside. Keep it sealed until the whole thing warms up -- for my ski shoots, that means leave it sealed throughout lunch for instance, and give it a couple of hours at the end of the day to acclimatize when the shoot is done.

(Note too that something similar can be at work on a flight where you gear is in checked luggage -- the luggage compartment may fall to frost, and when you land in humid Rio you could come to grief if you open too soon)

Cheers,
GB
 
RGBaker said:
The trick is to warm it without exposing it to indoor air. Cold air as found in central Canada is dead dry -- desert dry. Humidity in a home or worse a restaurant or similar will be immensely higher. Eyeglass wearers know the effect -- you step into a ski lodge with your glasses on after a morning of skiing, and you are instantly fogged up ...

To avoid the problem, put your gear in a camera bag that seals well while still outdoors, and bring the bag inside. That way the equipment warms to indoor temperature but is still surrounded by dry outdoor air. I keep a big tupperware-style bin in the back of my van, and drop the whole kit into the bin, snap the lid shut and bring it inside. Keep it sealed until the whole thing warms up -- for my ski shoots, that means leave it sealed throughout lunch for instance, and give it a couple of hours at the end of the day to acclimatize when the shoot is done.



(Note too that something similar can be at work on a flight where you gear is in checked luggage -- the luggage compartment may fall to frost, and when you land in humid Rio you could come to grief if you open too soon)

Cheers,
GB
Click to expand...

GB,

This is amazing advice. I was wondering about the best way to transition the gear from indoors to out, and I think the giant tupperware solution is exactly what I was looking for. Great stuff. Now, just to capture the magic of Churchill.
 
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