Nikon User Thread

I like the second one the best... it may be less artistic then the others, but that one inspires a sense of wonder... which is why I like infrared in the first place.
 
$80 for a the R72. They are easy to shoot with, you just focus and set up your shot, put the filter on, and hit the shutter.

I will post the originals in a couple of minutes, let me just resize them.

-Jeremy
 
i just snagged a 58mm hoya r72 on ebay for $36 with free shipping...... any advantage to having a 72mm version rather than 58mm other than compatibility with bigger lenses?
 
Not really, just depends on which piece of glass you wnat to use it on... I got the 67mm version so I could use it on the 18-70mm glass because that is going to be my only wide glass for a long time and I'd rather have larger rather than smaller...

-Jeremy

EDIT:

Here are the originals, just resized, straight out of the camera. I didn't even crop the filters or anything, so you can see everything exactly as it is. I think that the first 6 pictures are the 18-70, UV, IR, Step Up Ring, Polarizer... The rest are the 18-70mm & IR. There is no correction done to these at all, straight out of the camera.

-Jeremy
 
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pink!!! so iguess these amazing IR shots i see where everything looks normal except the greenery is all about photoshop..... can't wait to get mine.

when is the deadline for our first photo contest thing?
 
question:

if i have a lense 52mm and a filter 72mm for example, i need a step up ring 72 to 52 or a step down ring 52 to 72?
Or is it the same?

thanks a lot in advance
 
Step up ring... it is based off the lens size... So if your lens is 50mm and your filter is 67 you're stepping up.

I say that we make the deadline Monday... Give everyone the weekend to finish up their projects.

-Jeremy

EDIT:

Here is another IR that I modified:

Another%20Porch.jpg
 
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Man I love the infra-red... I've ALWAYS loved infra-red shots... when you get into just the exact right spot it will blow your mind... that's a great example of how a filter can do things that would be really hard to mimic in photoshop... I don't know what it would take, but I'll bet it wouldn't be easy to get those shots any other way.

Here's a handrail at Steak 'n Shake... had to crop nearly 100% to get this:

snshandrail.jpg
 
That is a great shot, and you can't really tell how much you cropped... I mean you can see the tiles on the floor enough to count them. Great shot dude.

-Jeremy
 
Thanks man! It's no major league ballpark, but I'll be taking my cam everywhere for weeks so hopefully I'll get lucky here and there... I can't wait to see more of your shots!
 
Im having a problem with my sky always being blown out :(
But when i drop my iso or shutter my subject gets under exposed.
This is all in daylight.
What am i doing wrong? cuz i know its me.
 
infokill said:
Im having a problem with my sky always being blown out :(
But when i drop my iso or shutter my subject gets under exposed.
This is all in daylight.
What am i doing wrong? cuz i know its me.
Click to expand...

Are you using a polarizer? That is how I have been getting better shots. The other option is to change your metering to 'center' or 'spot'. This will allow the camera to expose based upon a specific point rather than the entire frame.

Personally, when I shoot landscapes (and I'm no expert), I use a polarizer and always step down one F-Stop, I want it slightly underexposed. This allows me to do more in post without having to worry about blowing things out.

-Jeremy
 
Havent tried the poarizer. will do though.
and by changing my meeting do you mean my focus area?
And my problem isnt just with landscapes, its with people too.
Thanks!
 
It's metering... I don't have my camera with me so I can't tell you which menu it is in... I can check tonight.

Go buy a polarizer. Most photo stores that are quality sell used ones, but you can get one almost anywhere for around $50-$75. It will stop down two stops of light, allow you to shoot through windows without reflections, and prevent blown out skies... Pretty much, you'll get blue... How deep the blue is depends how closed the iris is.

-Jeremy
 
Infokill... the d50 has a reputation of slightly pushing the EV too much... I think on that cam you still have a little button right up by the shutter for that... you push the little button and at the same time turn the command dial... put your EV at a -.03 or -.05... you will have a lot less blown highlights that way. It's a very common tweak of the d50... the d70s is the opposite... most people set it at +.03 or higher.

The best advice I can give you on the subject is to get comfortable with changing that level... the meter in the cam is great, but it doesn't know what you care about most in your shot... the meter is a guideline not a rule.

Don't worry about taking test shots of things also... in my opinion the days of posing and snapping a single shot are dead... I tell people right away that I'm going to take a few shots if they're posing... and if it's natural shots then I just do my thing and snap away while adjusting the EV to get it dialed in.
 
Thanks guys, i'll test it out when i get home from work.
Man i thought coming from a regualr slr to digital slr would be cake, but im still getting used to where everything is lol. and i only use manual, havent even touched the other settings.
 
I took Matt's advice a while back and shoot everything in Aperture priority mode (A) and normally step down as far as I can and still have a shutter in the ballpark of 100 to enable me to shoot handheld. Any shorter than 100 and I can't get a clear image. A lot of this depends on your glass, but manual for me at least, doesn't always yield the best results. Adjusting the EV is a great idea though, and something I have yet to play with.

I think a polarizer will work wonders for you right away, and it's a lot cheaper than a new lens.

-Jeremy
 
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