Nikkor G + Aperture Adapter OR Older Nikkor D on AF100?

maxusa

Well-known member
I am currently researching Nikon glass for use with the AF100. There are some very interesting options. However, after all the research and literally crawling dvxuser forums, I am still not fully convinced whether I shall invest in the newer Nikkor G glass with an aperture-ring adapter such as the Adaptimax or Novoflex OR invest in older Nikkor D glass with manual aperture rings. So I seek forum's opinions on the issue.

From what I gathered so far, the newer G models offer better optical performance. The downside, of course, is the absence of the manual aperture ring (present on the D lenses), which can be partially taken care of with an adapter that has such a ring. However, this solution does not identify the F-stops. Has this been an issue and what can be done to address this deficiency?

I have seen several references to an electronic Nikon F > M43 adapter. Such a product will be great, but it does not exist. And looking at Birger and their ongoing Canon EF adapter saga, I am not hopeful with this product's prospects.

Any opinions and/or experiences are greatly appreciated!
 
I'm all about the manual Nikons WITH aperture rings - and use the Voigtlander adapter. Really nice tight fit and finish.

I disagree that the G series of lenses are necessarily superior; there are lenses in the AF-S, AIS and AI series that are really, really sweet.

Often the only thing improved in current-generation (or criticized in older generation) is extreme edge performance with a full 35mm frame - which is a complete non-issue with a 4/3 or S35 sensor, with which the glass is superb.

I use very highly-regarded Nikon zooms as variable primes: currently have the 17-35mm F2.8 and 28-70mm F2.8 AF-S zooms - and am about to add the matching (hard to find) 80-200mm F2.8 AF-S zoom. All constant aperture, all with zoom rings.

These are some of the most minimally-breathing non-cine lenses out there - and are parfocal through certain ranges for limited zoom use.

See reviews here: http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_zoom_00.html and http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests

Duclos can cine-mod them too.

I also highly recommend the VERY nice Nikkor 28mm F1.4 and 85mm F1.4 AF lenses as primes; the former is legendary, discontinued and hard to find - the latter still in production. Ditto for the 105mm F2.0 with defocus (bokeh) control.

Hope this helps.
 
.......The downside, of course, is the absence of the manual aperture ring (present on the D lenses), which can be partially taken care of with an adapter that has such a ring. However, this solution does not identify the F-stops. Has this been an issue and what can be done to address this deficiency?
.......
Any opinions and/or experiences are greatly appreciated!

You have correctly identified the "downside".... and there is nothing else you can do to address it apart from using lenses with aperture rings.

Note : there can be many downsides to lenses ( even those with aperture rings).
eg. non constant aperture, moving and /or rotating front elements, bad design and optical performance, bad coatings, plastic mechanisms, electronic components, focus ring issues, focus motor issues........ etc

Not all lenses are created equal and what compounds the issue is that great lenses designed for still photography may or may not be so great for cine work.
 
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Actually there is- Nikon Prolock http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrMFOQBOYlc - it addresses this and other still lens mount issues, albeit for RedOne camera, Epic, F3 but that's where I stopped for cost reasons..

OK, well - first, this is the AF100 forum, and the OP is an AF100 owner - so your product doesn't really help then; and as interesting as your product is, you are indeed being honest all the times you say in your videos that you can "sort of / kind of / almost" tell what stop you aperture is at.

To some, knowing exactly which stop (or half, or quarter stop) they are at is critical. There are other mount adapters that we are familiar with that can control a Nikon aperture and estimate what stop you are at by relative travel - but we still see them as limited.

But nice product for those who it applies to, really.
 
Sorry- I just responded to the poster's statement. He stated "nothing" so I responded with " something" The ring has scale engraved so you can tell stops pretty accurately- for any lens.
Can you tell me why you need accuracy to 1/4 stop on electronic aquisition device? For exposure scopes are much better and more accurate way considering the limited DR of sensors...
 
I disagree that the G series of lenses are necessarily superior; there are lenses in the AF-S, AIS and AI series that are really, really sweet. Often the only thing improved in current-generation (or criticized in older generation) is extreme edge performance with a full 35mm frame - which is a complete non-issue with a 4/3 or S35 sensor, with which the glass is superb. Hope this helps.
A great point on the relative sensor size. This makes corner sharpness less relevant with the AF100.
 
...Nikon Prolock addresses this and other still lens mount issues, albeit for RedOne camera, Epic, F3...
Interesting solution. Do I understand correctly that this product is actually a replacement mount plate--not an adapter--with a manual aperture ring? It seems that the outer aperture ring is free floating until it is arbitrarily positioned and interlocked by the thumb screw with the internal ring that does the Nikkor aperture pushing. And if there is some marker on the lens or camcorder body for reference, one can divide the ring travel to come up with approximated F-stops. Assuming the actual lens aperture lever travels in constant increments for all F-mount lenses (e.g., 3 degrees), once the actual lens scale is known (e.g., f/2.8 to f/22) the markers can approximate aperture adjustments.

If this is true, then one can put markers on a Novoflex adapter with the same effect. The advantage of the Prolock is in its floating ring which acts as an adjustable scale with better precision due to its larger diameter and, hence, longer travel. Interesting solution. This is pretty close to the built-in manual ring on the Nikkor D glass although the validity of several mechanical assumptions and proper mounting (i.e., human factor) remain the main risk factors for precision.
 
Great points, Craig. I realize that you have a strong opinion on manual aperture. And for good reasons. Reliable and precise aperture control can be very important, especially for more experienced cameramen who routinely factor it in. Funny, on his blog Philip Bloom describes the hoops of using Canon EF glass on camcorders when aperture adjustments must be performed by mounting the lens on a native Canon body each time a change is necessary. I guess nothing can stop enthusiasts, eh?
 
Assuming the actual lens aperture lever travels in constant increments for all F-mount lenses (e.g., 3 degrees), once the actual lens scale is known (e.g., f/2.8 to f/22) the markers can approximate aperture adjustments.
It has to- otherwise the AE mode in the camera wouldn't work...

I disagree that the G series of lenses are necessarily superior; there are lenses in the AF-S, AIS and AI series that are really, really sweet.

Often the only thing improved in current-generation (or criticized in older generation) is extreme edge performance with a full 35mm frame - which is a complete non-issue with a 4/3 or S35 sensor, with which the glass is superb.
Add to that nano crystal coatings, aspherical elements and super low dispersion glass substrate for the newest generation lenses. If you saw these projected side by side like I do you'd be "G-converted" haha
 
If you saw these projected side by side like I do you'd be "G-converted".
This is what I heard and read about the new Nikkor G glass; some improvements. Cost aside, can anyone speak to real life performance advantage among the following lenses on a camcorder?
  • Nikkor 16-35mm f/4G ED VR
    vs.
    Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8D IF-ED
  • Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED
    vs.
    Nikkor 28-70mm f/2.8D IF-ED (discontinued)
  • Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II
    vs.
    Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8D ED
There is also the Nikkor FX vs. DX consideration. Why pay for the coverage that cannot be used?
 
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