New 35mm adapter

hey just got my go35 sd standard(not pro) in today. i dont know if im doing something wrong. today is cloudy so i understand the lightloss issue, but there is a huge amount of grain, and i can get ride of the circle. the closest i can zoom on my camera doesn't get rid of the edges being cut off, and when i try to zoom further, it can't focus that close on the gg. :( am i doing something wrong???
PLEASE HELP!
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Seems like some major chromatic aberration at the edges as well. You're using a DVX? How far are you zooming and what's the lowest focus setting you can achieve?
 
i think i found the problem on my lens, but i dont know how to fix it. there is a lever/switch to open the iris but it is on the mount end itself. i can push it to the left with my finger and see the iris open, but it springs back to closed when i let go...

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i am using the original dvx100
 
You won't be able to focus in as close as you need with a DVX100. I had that same problem and am in the process of selling my DVX100 and getting a 100a. Email Jim at Go35 and I'm sure he can fix it if you send it to him.
 
In terms of the lens aperture, you'll have to jam that little lever open. You don't have a manual lens, so the aperture is determined by the metering system of the SLR that the lens would normally be attached to. You can just fold up a bit of paper or something, I've done that before on one of my Nikon zoom lenses and it worked fine. Just on a sidenote, it looks like your lens is rather "slow", so you may have some problems with grain at lower light levels. A faster lens may help. If that just confuses you let me know. :D Not everyone follows the technical terms of lenses.

Edit: In terms of getting closer the best bet would be to add another macro. That's the only way you're going to get close enough to the GG to focus on it. You're going to get more chromatic aberration and distortion, but it's your best option.
 
Come on - buy a cheap fixed 50-55mm with a low f-stop and manual focus - preferrably f1.2. They're not really that expensive.
 
So are these things for sale???

I'd be intereested in the Pro model but I'm not seeing any demo footage or pics of the unit anywhere.

B, you oughta attach your sales website info to your signature for posts. How can we buy these if we don't know how (or have demo footage).
 
holymexicobatman said:
got a quick link to where i should look for a macro? preferably a source in europe...
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I'm weak when it comes to sourcing things out of Europe. Just look for something like 2x or 4x macro. You don't need that much more, and adding too much will kill ya. I tried searching on Germany's Google site, but I don't know the German words for any of these parts. :D Been a long time since high school German classes, and I don't think "macro" or "close up lens" was part of the curriculum.
 
ok, heres some grabs after i fixed the iris problem...

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im hoping if i get a +4 macro, it'll solve the problem of me not being able to zoom in far enough(im using the original dvx). and since all of these shots are very low light(cloudy evening), i hope the next test'll be less grainy. :(
 
I'm able to see them and I'm rather discouraged by what is displayed. Part of the problem is the lens. It's rather slow. As mentioned earlier, I'd get something faster, anything in the f/1.4 - 1.8 range should do well.

Part of the problem is the GG. It's obviously going to exhibit quite a bit of grain unless there is a lot of light in the scene. The grain is very easy to make out and I doubt there's anything you can do about it. Even with another macro you'll still be seeing the grain, though you won't have the vignetting that you are getting. Good luck man. If you can somehow ditch the macro that is in there I'd get rid of it and get a proper achromat. It's killing your image. Especially on that salt shaker.
 
meta4 said:
So are these things for sale???

I'd be intereested in the Pro model but I'm not seeing any demo footage or pics of the unit anywhere.

B, you oughta attach your sales website info to your signature for posts. How can we buy these if we don't know how (or have demo footage).
Click to expand...

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=67464&page=2

I posted some pictures of my Go35 Pro unit in this thread.

Jim doesn't have the time yet to update his website for purchasing. You can order one if you PM him.

I do not have any footage to show yet since I don't just want to show random footage of inanimate objects. I'd like to show how the adapter is used in a narrative setting. Unfortunately things are pretty busy right now so i need to set some time aside to shoot something.

However in the thread I've linked to are several examples of footage from Jim and other people.

For the record the early tests (all low light) I have done with the adapter are significantly lower in grain than photos on this particular thread.

The images are soft (not exactly a terrible thing. i feel it makes the image look more organic in certain situations) but I believe when i light properly that will make a difference on that front.

Fast lenses are also a huge help with grain.
 
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I think one major difference is that these pictures are from the standard version, not the Pro. I would hope that grain is much less in the Pro version. For that kind of money it better be. :D
 
Just to check in briefly -- was out of town the past few days -- I don't know why you can't clear the frame's edges, honestly. It is true that the DVX100 does not focus as close as the 100a or b, but the unit I shipped to you, holymexico, is a replica of a unit I've sent to another DVX100 shooter who says he has no problems clearing the edges. I've found out that there is some variance between even the same generation of DVX100, so that may go far to explain the issue. I'm sorry and I will do what I can to fix the problem.

My advice would be to extend the unit with a 1" SM2L10 unit from Thorlabs. I could coach you through installing the extension -- all you'd need is about 20 minutes time and a 1/16th flathead. On further thought, you might be able to get away without monkeying with the pre-installed parts. Let's discuss over email. I have an extension unit here that I will send you to remedy the mistake.

As for chromatic aberration -- you're getting them from a combination of you SLR lens and the macro used inside the unit. That's one of the major differences between the SD and PRO -- the PRO addresses this issue with an achromat. To a certain degree, though, nearly every SLR lens at the extremes of its focal length will display some CA. If possible, I'd suggest shooting with fast primes instead of zooms to further help with the CA.

As for the grain, it's certainly more evident in the SD than the PRO under any circumstance, and shooting in overcast conditions will not help. If you have experience shooting film, think of the adapter like a slow ASA film stock -- you can only pull it in so many directions. But the SD diffuser is hand ground with aluminum oxide smaller than 3 microns and shouldn't show nearly as much grain when properly exposed.
 
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Incidentally, judging by the diameter of the rear exit pupil, that looks like a slow lens -- what is it, f/1:3.5? What's the focal length? Are the above shots taken with the iris stopped down?
 
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