My weekend with the FS100 and a 7D...

Rick Burnett

Section Moderator
This weekend we had two long shoots with the FS100. I've used it on a few short shoots before this, but never this many shots and for this many situations.


As some background history, my previous two cameras were an AF100 and before that a 7D (which I still own).


There has been a lot of posts recently about the FS100 and I felt that some first hand experience is always good because this is what people like to know. Here are my thoughts, in kind of a random order.


The FS100 is a really sensitive camera compared to the 7D and AF100. I had a LightWorks Fader ND and a Genus varND. Between the two, the Genus is a lot better. I feel like the colors change a bit with the LightWorks. The adapter I was using is a dumb adapter so I couldn't change my iris settings on 4 out of 5 lenses I was using. Instead, we just changed shutter. This affects the image as you all know, but, this is part of our style so we were okay with it. (If you've seen any of our work you'd know we use this). I really like fight sequences shot at a faster shutter speed.


I REALLY hope whatever comes after the FS100 has ND. There is another company working on an adapter for iris control with ND as well, and really, that would solve ALL my problems with that.


Almost all of the shots on day one were done using a blackbird stabilizer. The FS100 had only the handle and microphone attached. I want to get a smaller mic JUST for reference sound that is even lighter and less obtrusive, but haven't found anything yet. I think I am just going to build it. The next FS100 camera NEEDS an internal mic for reference sound. It makes it easier to line up when you are recording to a secondary device. The mic that came with it is overkill and adds weight I didn't want.


The blackbird works PERFECT in this configuration. I had about 2.0 pounds of extra crap on my camera that I just removed when floating it and it works amazingly well. It is NOT too heavy. Three different shooters used that setup with my camera and all agreed, once you go to a blackbird with the FS100, it's hard to shoot without it. It's an amazing stabilizer that seems too good to be true. I stand by my statement that for handheld stabilizers, it's the BEST one I have used. And compared to an arm/vest system, it is the most flexible because you aren't locked into the arm position.


Day two was hand held, going for more fast movements with the camera. The rolling shutter on the FS100 is fast enough for great fast movements. You just cannot do these types of shots with the 7D or the GH2. Too much jello. We all agreed after looking at the footage that this was one of the biggest positives of the FS100.


I've started using a white card with the FS100. This has been a tremendous help in getting the colors more correct. With the 7D I never white balanced. We've come to the conclusion that because the FS100 has so much more dynamic range (And it does without question), and the color performance is MUCH greater, you do have to be careful. For instance, shooting a dark scene with the 7D, where you use more gain, the colors desaturate. This is not the case with the FS100. The colors stay vibrant through the gain ranges.


Also, as others have observed, Red varies VERY much with the FS100. Using the default settings of the camera, the red is too saturated. The problem is, it's the curve of the red that matters. I do not have my FS100 with me at the moment, but I put together a new profile for the second day shooting using a color chart. I've looked through some of the footage, but not all of it. If I like the footage a lot, I will share the settings.


They aren't that far off of one of the default settings. I believe it is cinematone2 but I reduced saturation by to -2. I think the camera needs some fine tuning in the colors, and I am still working on that. I think once I can get that locked down, then I wont have to worry about it anymore. It's amazing how sensitive each of the channels are. I feel part of the tuning is going to be adjusting the saturation separately for each color using a color chart to really lock in what I want. I also think, having day/night profiles is going to be my next step.


The highlight blowouts did go to the complementary colors on a lot of shots where we blew out on purpose on day one with my over saturated profile. Given our film is VERY comical, very colorful, and based on a video game, we are fine with it. This is still something I want Sony to address. The new profile I shot on the second day, I think the highlights looked much better. Like the AF100, if you pull the saturation down a bit, you will give yourself more room before you blow out. But the original profile I shot on day one I am sure most people here would have not liked what happened in the highlights. Given all the pluses of the image outside of the highlight performance, I am fine with it. After showing non-technical people blown out images, none of them EVER commented on the complementary colors. I have come to the conclusion I pixel peep too much. :) It's different, no doubt, and something I avoid, but again, I can live with it.


Additionally, I don't shoot flat. Coming from the 7D I just cannot shoot this way. I tried to shoot in rec709 when I first got the camera and I exposed too low always watching the blacks. Given the blacks were not compressed as much, it just made an image I felt fell apart quicker. It's 8-bit and I know I am going to crush the top and bottom anyways in post, I still prefer to do this in camera. It's gives you the most freedom. Shooting this way one this shoot and the codec to grading performance looks to be MUCH better.


I hear some complains about motion in the footage, I just don't see this. Everything I shot at 24p at 1/48 looked like what I would expect. I am very happy with that performance. Looking at the same scenes with the 7D, they look the same. I really don't know what people are talking about with this. Maybe I just can't see it. I think the codec in the FS100 in motion holds up WAY better than the 7D. In fact, looking at a frame with motion on both cameras, it's even more night and day than what you perceive while watching in motion.


There is also a lot of talk about sensor reflection. I did not see this more than once where I was pointed AT the sun (with ND). I shot with the Tokina 11-16 F2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 and Bower 85mm F1.4. I've looked at this footage quite a bit and don't see the problem. I have seen it before, so I know it happens, I am still trying to figure out what the combination is that causes it. It is something I think needs addressing.


All in all the shoot was great. The FS100 shined in every way I had hoped. Shooting a few hours on the 7D on the second day was a HUGE wakeup call of why I love the FS100. It's not a perfect camera, but looking at the footage in post, it is CLEAR it is superior. When you shoot the EXACT same shots with both cameras, it will REALLY wake you up. Having 1080p60 and how clean the image was is amazing.


So, a quick list of what I'd like better (and please tell me if there is a way):


(1) ND in camera
(2) Easier gain adjustments than just 4 (and 4 is using the autogain setting only allowing it to go to 0 gain).
(3) Iris control of my EOS lenses
(4) Highlight performance better
(5) when recording clear the display of information
(6) Reduce sensor reflection to like the 7D where I never saw it ever
(7) smoother red performance in color spectrum


Things that were great:
(1) Rolling shutter
(2) Dynamic range
(3) noise perfomance.
(4) weight (especially on the blackbird)
(5) battery life
(6) focus assist in conjunction with zoom assist (can't wait for firmware update)
(7) RESOLUTION


For under $10k this is still the best performance/value camera for large sensor. I have ZERO regrets for investing in it. Hopefully the firmware will address a lot of the things brought up that could be better.

And, the big thing, we like it so much, we are considering now a second one.


PS for those asking about my lens mount, it looks like this one:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-l...ltDomain_0&hash=item20b1f6ad22#ht_3151wt_1208


It has the foot underneath. Although I paid $35 for mine I believe. Nothing special about it but it does hold the lenses firm. I think the internals are more reflective than I would like though.
 
How do you manage to shoot with eos lenses? surely you don't just shoot wide open all the time, is there some trick I am missing?
 
Great post. Thanks.

The problem with inbuilt ND is that it would change the design of the camera. It would have to be much taller around the lens mount.

If I could change anything about the FS100 it would be build quality.
 
How do you manage to shoot with eos lenses? surely you don't just shoot wide open all the time, is there some trick I am missing?

We shot with the lenses wide open and used shutter speed for this film to control exposure. In our shooting with the 7D, we actually were okay with a higher shutter speed due to the look we were looking for.

That said, even with the 7D I shot at F1.4 and F2.8 all the time and am very comfortable with the lens wide open. I'd say probably 90% of the stuff we shot on our first series, when using the 30mm was the lens wide open. I prefer keeping the lens as wide as possible in most cases and having the ISO as low as possible.

That said, for this shoot, I would have preferred on some shots to close the iris a bit more, but I couldn't.

Even with the 85mm lens I shot mostly with it at F1.4. What really matters is how far you are from your subject, as you know, in how much shallow DoF you are going to get.

In the beginning of day one, I DID NOT like the LightCraft ND. It was the perfect situation of shooting where I could see just how bad it was shifting colors. I really like the ND after the lens and before the sensor. That way, it seems to work more consistently. I felt on the 30mm the LightCraft was pushing the image a little purple.

As for the build quality, I hear the complaint about it a lot, but I just never have a problem. I wish the handle was a little more solid in the connection, just because the creaking scares me, but nothing has broken. If I could complain about one thing, it would be, touch the camera anywhere on the left side of it (looking from the back) is probably going to hit a button. I think the button design with more recess would be a good idea. :)

Also, if it being sturdier meant more weight, I'd rather not. I love the weight of it right now. A bigger LCD would be nice. I also wish the LCD could be repositioned in more ways. I really like it on top, for a lot of things, but, when I am below the camera, I can't see it.
 
Oh, and for the built in ND, if they went with something like the C300 design, it wouldn't add to much size to the front. Also, the record button near the front could be in a much better position! :)
 
We have a few more months of work. Major filming is done, but the special effects and pick-up shots are going to take a bit longer. That said, I think the second day piece will be done first, and I will post that here when done.
 
You must have good glass to pull that off. I have to stop down at least a 1/2 to full stop on my old fd glass to sharpen them up a bit. I'm usually around f2.8 to f4. But tonight I had to open up my 50mm 1.4 for the added light.(ext. night scene) I could see the softness with it wide open. But I got lucky with my framing, and was able to get some nice bokah in the backround to smear it up a bit. some times you have to do what you got to do to pull it off. It's all about getting the job done in the best way possible with the tools you have to work with.

Is there anyway you can post some footage of the scenes you shot? Would love to see the fs100 with high shutter speeds, As i'm a fan of using high shutters to.
 
Great post. Thanks.

The problem with inbuilt ND is that it would change the design of the camera. It would have to be much taller around the lens mount.

If I could change anything about the FS100 it would be build quality.

The inclusion of ND's would not change the DNA of the FS100 shape, IMO. The convenience, for me, would hugely overshadow a small extra bump on the front of the camera. As for build quality, your money is going into electronics not an amazingly solid camera that we have enjoyed in the cinema world for a century now. The market asked for a large sensor dedicated video camera for CHEAP - and Sony delivered just that. I have been on the development side of many products for our industry - including cameras. Everyone has differing ideas about features and ergonomics but the common ground from 99% of those asked on a product like the FS100 is to make it inexpensive. It is all about bang for the buck in this category. Move over to Alexa if you want build quality to be first priority, but you have to trade 11 FS100's to get just one Alexa.

I simply treat the FS100 easier than other cameras I have owned (I owned a rental house) and it is more than workable - it does really well. Perfect? Of course not, but FS100 owners have tons of money left over compared to those buying other options that are vastly more expensive.
 
As for the build quality, I hear the complaint about it a lot, but I just never have a problem.
I'm not complaining... it's just my least favourite aspect of the FS100.

And I agree that the rolling shutter speed is great. I can't stand all the jello footage you see with so much DSLR shot footage. I have hardly ever seen a handheld shot taken with a DSLR that doesn't look terrible to my eyes simply because of all the micro wobbles.
 
I have to agree with everything here. The only thing that drives me nuts
right now is a built in ND filter. I just picked up a Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8
lens, and it's amazing! Crazy sharp...can't stress that enough. However
my Genus ND filter makes some really bad imagery at the longer lengths.

Just simply makes the picture murky, not sharp enough. Really cuts
down the detail. I will be retrying some shots outside to confirm
this but I think I will need a Heliopan to solve that issue. I can
definitely say at even wide open that lens is a performer, and
the day footage I had didn't reflect what I was getting at the event
I shot on Saturday. Will have to investigate that a bit.

I for one had the WORST luck with reds in picture profiles, especially
regarding skin tones! Drove me ABSOLUTELY nuts! Well for Saturday's
Leukemia Ball I made a great profile that is reminiscent of shooting
with a DSLR on a standard picture profile. Which for is perfect
at times when you need to just hand over footage. Really cuts down
issues later on when the person requesting the footage has no idea
of color correction let alone grading.

I put together a very basic picture profile that just works. It's true
to what you see, and the key is white balance. For the life of me
when using a digital target it makes my WB wrong generally. Couldn't
tell you why...I really wish the 'Auto WB' (The one that corrects WB automatically while rolling)
button would find a WB and set it into memory. It gets my WB the correct way every time it
seems...I don't understand why I can't get a proper reading. Really
just want it to set to a memory...would really help at this point...

Anyway the biggest thing is just getting that correct WB for the scene
coupled with a good 'true' PP. If you are grading a flat profile is great
however if you aren't they 'save' the red channel making it an untrue
shoot and deliver piece.

Here are some screen grabs of the benefit I shot, edit will be coming
later this week I'll post a new topic for it if anyone is interested
in it, just speak up.

As a quick note these are completely ungraded. Right out of camera didn't
touch them. Exactly what I was shooting for.

Oh and it was Alice in Wonderland themed just for the record ;)
LB_ScreenGrab_02_small.jpg

LB_ScreenGrab_03_small.jpg

LB_ScreenGrab_05_small.jpg

LB_ScreenGrab_09_small.jpg
 
Rick, what was the highest shutter speed you went up to?

This month I used for the first time an EOS lens wide open indoors with Auto shutter, not a lot of movement of the subject, it was akin to having auto exposure with an EOS lens. As sunlight would come into the room occasionally, it was sort of nice to let the shutter speed float to automatically compensate.
 
That profile looks nice, Stance Media! Would you mind sharing your color depth settings?

All color depth settings are 0.

I do not have a color chart so dialing them in seemed somewhat pointless.
It wouldn't have been 'accurate' so to speak. And really the profile
works flawlessly without changing them. I set the profile up with a 'calibrated'
monitor however. So I dialed in everything else to show what the scene really looked like,
to provide an accurate depiction of what is in front of you so you can just
hand over footage if need be.

When I do change those settings I usually always use Frank's old Glog-B standard.
It provides the truest settings when changing color depth, in my opinion.
 
I want to get a smaller mic JUST for reference sound that is even lighter and less obtrusive, but haven't found anything yet. I think I am just going to build it. The next FS100 camera NEEDS an internal mic for reference sound. It makes it easier to line up when you are recording to a secondary device. The mic that came with it is overkill and adds weight I didn't want.

Hi Rick

I had the same exact issue, wanting to put it on a Steadicam and have SOME type of reference sound, but finding almost any XLR was to much and required too much extra weight and bulk. So I got a XLR to 1/8" adapter, I it is the RODE model here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y021NA/ref=pe_175190_21431760_cs_sce_dp_2,

And then I had an old self-powered 1/8" stereo mic, a really small cheap Sony from a long time ago. I think they may still make something like it. Put a little fur windscreen over it and it is a less obtrusive 'reference sound' solution.

-Keith
 
The inclusion of ND's would not change the DNA of the FS100 shape, IMO. The convenience, for me, would hugely overshadow a small extra bump on the front of the camera. .

Isn't the issue that the flange distance for E mount is so shallow that getting something mechanical inside there is a tough design job? I'm not sure how big the ND filter wheels are in other cameras and i'm sure you'd know for sure. The F3 flange depth is deeper isn't it? (Which stops you from putting rangefinder lenses on, one of the reasons i wanted the FS in the first place)

So far i would agree that the biggest issues i've seen are

- Red channel, i would like to see more zebra clipping warnings for the RGB channels or an RGB histogram
- Seen the sensor reflection a few times
- Ugly magenta/green artefacts on very high contrast blown out edges. This for me is a big one, i've seen it a fair bit and there's no good reason for it, should be handled in the debayer

Rick, you mentioned you have had good communication with Sony, is it possible to find out where you're sending your ideas?

cheers
Paul
 
We shot with the lenses wide open and used shutter speed for this film to control exposure. In our shooting with the 7D, we actually were okay with a higher shutter speed due to the look we were looking for.

That said, even with the 7D I shot at F1.4 and F2.8 all the time and am very comfortable with the lens wide open. I'd say probably 90% of the stuff we shot on our first series, when using the 30mm was the lens wide open. I prefer keeping the lens as wide as possible in most cases and having the ISO as low as possible.


eeekkkkk, does that make anyone else cringe as much as me? I NEVER shoot wide open unless I have too, which with fs100 is never, even in a dark club i shot f2 and f2.8 on a 1.4 lens. Lenses are so soft wide open, even really expensive ones.
 
Rick ... you could have controlled the iris on your EOS lenses with the equipment you had
http://jdmax.com/aperture-control-for-canon-eos-lenses-on-panasonic-gh2-af100-sony-fs100/

Using another iris doesn't always work, it depends on the design of the lens. There's a specific reason why apertures are where they are on each individual lens. Not a good solution, you could seriously undermine the quality of the lens.

I'd hate to shoot WFO all the time! Not least because pulling focus at f1.4 is a screaming nightmare unless you're in controlled conditions.
Also focusing on some of those AF canon lenses is tough going too. I have a 17-55 and find the MF awful on it. Decided to sell up my canon gear and try the SAL1650 as an experiment and also continue with my MF lens collection.

Hats off to you for pulling that lot off though!

cheers
Paul
 
Using another iris doesn't always work, it depends on the design of the lens. There's a specific reason why apertures are where they are on each individual lens. Not a good solution, you could seriously undermine the quality of the lens.

I'd hate to shoot WFO all the time! Not least because pulling focus at f1.4 is a screaming nightmare unless you're in controlled conditions.
Also focusing on some of those AF canon lenses is tough going too. I have a 17-55 and find the MF awful on it. Decided to sell up my canon gear and try the SAL1650 as an experiment and also continue with my MF lens collection.

Hats off to you for pulling that lot off though!

cheers
Paul


dude ... you didn't read my post did you? lol. I hate using another aperture on my EOS, I use the EOS aperture
 
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